2004 liberty Rebuilding the front end on my moms jeep and found a lot of fluid in tie rod boots

[Gpas02]

had a ball joint separate and im just otherwise replacing everything on the front end so it rides better...went to take the tie rod boots out and a lot of power steering fluid came out....not a little drip or seepage. I think its safe to say that nobody has been adding power steering fluid regularly but I dont I see leaks on the ground where it is normally parked. or on the outside of the boots. it also seems to run and drive fine because I drove it for a few weeks recently. Curious what I should do here. its a 2004 Jeep Liberty.

I have seen people saying the rack is leaking if it does this.

I am replacing upper and lower control arms, shocks, end links, etc so everything is already off the car at this point which may make it easier to fix...only have a few days to get this sorted out before I leave for quite awhile so I appreciate any help. Not sure if I want to take on the power steering rack right now.

Im thinking about just finishing with the front end rebuild despite this and then getting to it later because the car seems to run and drive fine otherwise. ill be back in town in a few months and then I can replace the rack at that time I guess...unless there are other options to fix it.

 

[KJowner]

That's fairly typical for a leaking steering rack, obviously long term it's going to need replacing but if its only a tiny leak you may be able to live with it for a while, keep a close eye on the levels.

 

[Shankster]

I followed this guy's process to replace the steering rack - saves a few hours:

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[Shankster]

With where you're at with the other work you're doing you're half way to replacing the steering rack. If I were you and I could put my hands on a steering rack quickly I'd go ahead and replace it now. If you do that make sure you have 2 new o-rings for the hose connections on hand and the proper fluid (ATF+4 transmission fluid). You don't ever want to put regular PS fluid in these.

 

[ikuo78]

Mine too.

Is there space outside the end seal for additional end seals?

Or, is it possible to replace only the end seal?
without removing the steering rack assembly from the car.
I feel like it could be done if I could remove the pinion.

There was so much disassembly other than the rack that I pretended not to look at it.

It is difficult to obtain a new rack assembly for right-hand drive.

I can't even find a used item to use as a donor.

 

[seafish]

I followed this guy's process to replace the steering rack - saves a few hours:

GREAT find....What a solid mechanic and ALSO was actually more interesting to watch then the crappy TV program that I had planned on watching tonight.

The ONLY point I got concerned is when he was using WD40 and I thought to myself, what kind of expert mechanic still uses WD40 instaed of Kroil or PB blaster or anything EXCEPT WD40... and right then he explained how PB Blaster gives him a headache, which I can totally understand!!!

Thanks for posting the link.

 

[KJowner]

Seal kits are available, I've not rebuilt one so I don't know what's involved. Right hand drive racks are available in the UK and I imagine Australia too but probably not cheap to get sent to Japan.

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[ikuo78]

Seal kits are available, I've not rebuilt one so I don't know what's involved. Right hand drive racks are available in the UK and I imagine Australia too but probably not cheap to get sent to Japan.

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thank you.
Looking at the photo of the seal kit, it looks like one of the end seals is simply fixed with a C ring.
I'll check to see if it's on the passenger side.

I was only looking for third party rack assemblies and not genuine stock.

I also try enabling right-hand drive countries in google search.

I'll try to find the easiest way possible.

 

[ikuo78]

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I would like to believe that this is possible if it is on the passenger side.

 

[ikuo78]

The end seal on the passenger side is fixed with a back plate (nut) that is turned using a special two-jaw tool.
The inner diameter of the housing cannot be measured without removing the back plate, so it seems possible to replace it by purchasing several types of oil seals.

I also need a tool to remove the inner tie rod.
The boots are also hardened.

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[KJowner]

I use a peg wrench for rams with that style end cap.

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[ikuo78]

I use a peg wrench for rams with that style end cap.

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thank you.
Close but slightly different?

The nut has threads on the outside,
It is installed about 15mm deep into the housing, so
It seems that I can somehow turn it by processing a bicycle wrench.

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Can I remove the inner tie rod with pipe pliers?
It looked like there was no flat surface to wrench on.

But there wasn't as much fluid as I thought.

 

[KJowner]

That may work to undo it.
I've used self locking pliers for that sort of thing before, but there's often a couple of flats for a spanner or a hex on the end of steering rods, you'll have to have a look when you start stripping it.

 

[vlad588]

With where you're at with the other work you're doing you're half way to replacing the steering rack. If I were you and I could put my hands on a steering rack quickly I'd go ahead and replace it now. If you do that make sure you have 2 new o-rings for the hose connections on hand and the proper fluid (ATF+4 transmission fluid). You don't ever want to put regular PS fluid in these.

How come you can’t use PS fluid?

 

[seafish]

ATF+4 was specced by Chrysler/Jeep.Dodge as the approved and recommended hydraulic fluid for power steering in most all of its vehicles around MY2000.

The change from PS fluid to ATF+4 might have been a corporate cost saving measure (stocking only one type of hydraulic fluid for transmissions, transfer cases and PS pumps) or it might have something to do with a change in rubber compounds used and better lubricating properties...I dont really know why for sure.

That said, ATF+4 is a Mopar licensed synthetic hydraulic fluid...if it can lubricate and power the driveline of your Jeep, it can certainly do the same for the much simpler power steering system.

 

[WheelNut]

That bottom bracket tool you posted won't work for a nut with external notches. It'll only work for a nut with holes drilled in the face of the nut.
Unfortunately the service manual doesn't describe the disassembly of the PS rack to replace the seals. It only describes the procedure to remove and replace the entire rack. If you're doing the lower control arm bushings then getting the rack out is easy as you just have to get the front diff out of the way. You might want to pull the rack since the mounting bushings are likely perished on one side from motor oil degrading them (they get oil dripped on them when you remove the oil filter).

Steering rack removal and install for LHD 4x4:

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[ikuo78]

Thank you.
The important thing is that the lower arm is removed in fig10.
This may be necessary if the driver's side end seal or shaft seal is broken.

However, I am looking into the possibility of replacing the end seal on the passenger side without taking the rack assembly out of the car.
The nut has two parallel slits on its surface.

The fixing method for the end seal looks the same as in this video.

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I don't have any spare fluid or a suitable oil seal, so I'm currently at the preliminary stage.