2006 Liberty no start (complicated)

[KJowner]

A shot in the dark, but your not on fuel are you? Don't trust the gauge, it may have stuck.
You won't get anything out of the filter, it's a suction system driven by the CP3 pump on the engine.
Try the priming pump, if that's not delivering then you have a blocked filter or leaking pipe or the filter head has failed.

 

[Btownpreacher]

I put 5 gallons in it to be sure. I primed it 20 times like the owners manual said and then cranked it, no start; repeated this about five times with no luck. The fuel filter was replaced about 5-6k miles ago; I hadn't had any issues up to this point, even when it was 2 degrees on Christmas eve.

 

[KJowner]

The old favourite advice for a CRD is charged the battery or try a replacement, they are very sensitive to low voltage, that will probably sort out a lot of the codes, unfortunately it also looks like you have an issue with the SKIM or wiring, hopefully Billwill will see this, he is the Guru on the wiring side.
I'd sart with checking fuses, relays and connections.

 

[Btownpreacher]

Ok so I took it a shop and they used a much better scanner than mine and pulled 22 DTC's. He printed the codes out, cleared them, power cycled the keys, and 17 DTC's came back. Many of them are an engine control circuit low, and there is a low system voltage light, but he had a battery booster box on it while he scanned it. I think I need to start with what I know; there's no fuel pressure at the fuel filter, and barely any on the fuel rail. Is there a fuel pump in the fuel tank for the 2005 American CRD with a 20.5 gallon fuel tank?

 

[turblediesel]

There is not an in-tank pump unless somebody added one. It's a good modification to make to eliminate air-in-fuel problems.

When you pumped up the priming pump did you use the bleed screw on the filter head to release the air in the system?

A low or bad battery makes the computers do stupid things. My first indication that my battery was bad came when I turned the key to start and it opened the tailgate glass instead of starting.

Any chance the shop trashed it joyriding? A friend got his Jaguar back needing a valve job after a shop took it out racing; it was in for a state inspection.

 

[KJowner]

As I said above, it's a vacuum system, the CP3 pulls it up from the tank, cheap and nasty.

 

[Btownpreacher]

There is not an in-tank pump unless somebody added one. It's a good modification to make to eliminate air-in-fuel problems.

When you pumped up the priming pump did you use the bleed screw on the filter head to release the air in the system?

A low or bad battery makes the computers do stupid things. My first indication that my battery was bad came when I turned the key to start and it opened the tailgate glass instead of starting.

Any chance the shop trashed it joyriding? A friend got his Jaguar back needing a valve job after a shop took it out racing; it was in for a state inspection.

No, I just pumped it 20 times; I heard the fuel going through it but I'm guessing most of what I heard was air in the filter/head.

I do not know how old the battery is, but it's a 1000ca AGM battery. It cranked the engine full speed many times for 6 hours before it started to run down. I took breaks in between cranks and never cranked for more than 15 seconds.


It's possible they messed it up, but I doubt it. First, they would have had my car for less than 45 minutes, before it died in the parking lot; second, I was two shops down eating lunch at the time and I most likely would have seen them driving it by; third, it was a 4 wheel parts store: they had 5 other rigs in line to work on that were built much bigger and better than mine. The only thing that mine had that is unusual is that it is the diesel, and when I talked to the guys at the shop, they either had no clue about it or they hid it really well.

 

[turblediesel]

Maybe these will help.

 

[Btownpreacher]

Thanks for the information Guys! After charging the battery, and checking various fuel components, I went for the Big Leagues. One of the contractors that I work with had a Chrysler/Jeep computer that gave him DTC's and data indicating an ECM fault. He used his diagnostic genius to discover that the ASD feed fuse was blow; 15 amp micro fuse was the issue. I thought it was all set, so I drove it home from work and decided to run some errands. 5 fuses and multiple shopping trips later it keeps blowing the ASD fuse. Any thoughts??? I changed the ASD relay also and the fuses quit blowing while I was driving, and it only quit after I turned it off. If I remember correctly, I was accelerating every time when the fuses blew. After doing a quick look on the web, repetitious ASD fuse failure indicates a bad ASD relay (already replaced), Crankshaft or camshaft sensor failure, fuel pump failure resulting in to much current draw, an O2 or ignition failure, or any random ground anywhere in any wiring harness that is related to the ASD circuit. Since it's a CRD I'm guessing that some of these circuits may be slightly different (no ignition wires or O2 sensors). I'm guessing that the engine vibration has worn through a wire somewhere, or that perhaps my cp3 is dying and over drawing current from the ASD circuit. For the first one they suggested unplugging the ASD components one by one and cranking it see if it blows the fuse; when it quits blowing the fuse, you've found your faulty circuit, and you just have to trace the wires and grounds till you find the short. If it's the fuel pump I have no idea what to do because, it will run so I know that it can get fuel pressure; I think it kinda felt sluggish while I was driving it, but I also haven't driven it for nearly 2 weeks and it hasn't been running for two weeks. Let me also specify that there are two fuses in the CRD marked for the ASD; one is a large pink 30 amp marked ASD, and the other is a blue 15 amp micro-fuse marked ASD FEED. the blue micro fuse is the one that blew, not pink 30 amp. The fuse blew 4 times, each time stalling the car; on the fourth time I replaced the ASD relay as well as the ASD FEED fuse. it didn't blow again until much later, I drove it for 15 minutes, parked it, turned it off and back on with no issues. Bought some dinner and 45 minutes later when I went out to the car, it started, went into reverse but as soon as I touched the accelerator it died. Changed the fuse the fifth time and made it home. Now what?!?

 

[Btownpreacher]

One more thought, when it acts up the fuel level gauge won't read, and it starts throwing me MIL's. As soon as I change the fuse they all go away and the gauge works normally. Random thought- my tpms won't show me the tire pressures. I had the sensors replaced and programed twice, but the internal console won't show the actual tire pressures; no codes for tpms though. It's been that way for at least 6k miles, maybe distantly vaguely related to my other potential wiring issues? No clue right now, but I really need to take my Liberty on a road trip on Saturday and I'd rather not just be changing fuses periodically for four hours

 

[Billwill]

A fuse constantly blowing while the Jeep is moving, going over bumps etc. is usually a wire on that circuit intermittently shorting through to chassis or some other random wire. I had plenty of issue like this after my GF pranged my 2002 CRD into a tree.

You can slightly upgrade a fuse to a higher rating...ie. about a10% increase! Some of the fuses are on their limit and any additions such as sound system upgrade can push the limits.

You need to float the output of the blowing fuse completely on all branches.
and inspect the wiring for chafing. If needed replace this circuit with new wiring!

 

[Btownpreacher]

I don't believe there's any electrical upgrades except lighting; headlights and a light bar which is currently disconnected, but is wired directly to the battery's auxiliary terminals normally. Where do I get an ASD wiring harness diagram? That would simplify the wiring search.

 

[Billwill]

Go to www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

The manuals are shown except for year 2004/2007 so in your case download the 2005 manuals.

There are good Theory of Ops sections or you can go straight to the Wiring Section 8W

The 2005 KJs you should be able to pull codes by rapidly turning ignition ON/Off three times...leave it ON after the third time and the codes will display from the oldest....which may not be relevant....to the newest which you should write down and work with!

There is no "ASD harness" per se, the wires all get mixed together in various bundles....just look for the correct colors of the wires and beware of splices that go off the wires to various places...the wire colors stay the same but you may have to temporarily cut off Splices while you are tracing your wire of concern for shorts/breaks etc.

Been there done that plenty times...if you have to trace a wire going into a small component such as the connector on the ECM/PCM wrap a pin or needle to your Multimeter lead and piece the insulation of the lead just before the ECM/PCM connector...you can cover up the hole in the insulation with some glue or carefully melt the hole with a soldering iron when finished!

Been there done that many times...have fun!

 

[Btownpreacher]

Alright, I think I found the right diagrams. Gonna start tracing wires tomorrow to see what I can find. I drove it 40 miles today with no issues, so right now its still an intermittent problem. I suspect that it will likely get worse if I keep driving without fixing it.

 

[turblediesel]

For CRD.

 

[Ozi jon]

I ran a jumper wire on circuit a209 to PCM C1 #29 and it fired right up and the ECU connected. The PCM was not powering up due to this wire lacking voltage. I'm not sure where the break is, any idea where this wire runs FROM the PCM, looks like through the firewall. I'm going to monitor the battery for parasitic loss, removing the negative terminal and checking amps across it and the negative post shows no amps, so I'm hoping it was a clean break. Problem resolved hopefully.

Hi been a while since this up !was trusting you have found the fault and all is and has been ok since ? was hoping you can further advise as I am having the exact same issue with my 2005 liberty, Auto diesel , after recently cleaning EGR valve, MAF sensor and EGR sensor Vehicle ran perfectly for 2 days
then MAF fault code was up and next day Car wouldn't fire!! must note - never had this issue previously
Although have also had a continuous speed sensor fault ( at least 12 months ) on the right had front wheel , this has had 2 new sensors installed and fault clears for a couple of days but always return so have been ignoring this continuous fault,but was wondering if all these faults are linked? and could cause the no start problem ie maybe a fault in the ECU now? Im hoping yourself or someone can shed some light on this and some directions thanks JK

 

[KJowner]

Check you have fuel, then check the crank and cam sensors and wires.