2008 Jeep KK. shifts into 4WD and 4WD Low all on its own. Dear God, help.

[mkkm]

Okay, I have now spent 3 hours Google'ing the heck out of this issue and I am starting to think that my Jeep decided to be the only Jeep to have this issue. So, I am asking for pity for a new member. The issue is basic. I start my KK and notice something is different about how it is driving. I look at the dash lights and 4WD or 4WD Low is lit up. One time this happened and I was at highway speeds before I noticed and today I drove almost all the way home before I noticed. I have the electrical shifting paddle lever. These KKs are super crazy rare so the auto recycling yards are out.

Any suggestions? I can not get even AutoZone or Advance websites to offer any parts for this issue.

Thanks beyond in advance.

Also.... this jeep "bings" for every little thing. I don't have my seat belt on it "bings". My turn signal left on, it bings. I just can't believe that all of sensors to tell me I did or are doing something wrong, but when the truck appears to be trying to suicide its transfer case... all I get is a %$^#^@!!! tiny light in the corner of the instrument cluster.

 

[LibertyTC]

Welcome to the forum.
Nothing worse than a electronic mode with a mind of it's own
Hopefully one of our KK members may have a better insight about this strange issue, hang in there.
Sounds to me like either the switch is bad or what ever is electrically responsible for maintaining position (position sensor) is faulting.
It's moments like this, we all wish that a factory service manual was available for the KK's. Unfortunately for a pdf version you may have to buy one, or consult the dealer.
With the paddle shifter are you able to move the selector back into 2WD mode and then light goes out/ responds normally ?

 

[mkkm]

Thanks for responding. Normally when this happens I turn the truck off and then restart it. Sometimes I have to restart in park and sometimes it will finally go off in neutral switching the lever back and forth. A few times I could feel and hear the transfer case click back into position and see the 4WD or 4WD Low light turn off at the same time. Last night the 4wd light came on, as I was leaving my job. I pulled over at a closed gas station and after a series of shutting the engine off and then restarting it, the light went off and I drove off. When I got home I needed to make a u-turn to park my KK and the steering bogged down and I heard the tires started chirp which makes me think that the light went out but that the KK was still in 4WD. I live in Maryland and we have not had snow in a bit and with the Covid outbreak, our work schedule is a bit chaotic. So, if I can disconnect something and get my KK to stay in 2WD for a few months that is an acceptable option, because I do not think we will be four wheelin' any time soon. Again, thanks for the response to my post.

 

[lfhoward]

You can indeed disconnect something to keep it in 2wd. First, make sure the transfer case is physically in 2wd when you turn the Jeep off. Next, pull up on the plastic trim around the shifters and it should pop off. On the bottom of the 4wd switch, disconnect the wiring pigtail that goes to the switch. Reinstall the trim.

This should keep the Jeep permanently in 2wd. If it doesn’t, then you know the problem is not with the switch.

 

[mkkm]

Thank you for replying. Update, I started the KK up and it appears to still be in 4WD. There is no lights in the instrument cluster to say its in 4WD or 4WD Low, but I can still feel that its engaged because when i pulled the truck out of the place I parked it last night, it bogged down again and the wheels were chirping. I have to return to campus tonight so I won't have time to try to remove the panel. I visited AutoZone and Advance websites and it seems that they believe all Libertys are KJs. I can't even find the switch on Amazon. I am going disconnect the switch tomorrow and hope that maybe the electronics might possibly default to 2WD. Thanks again for responding and in advance for any suggestions anyone has.

 

[Billwill]

Try disconnect the switch as suggested...if it still does not work then maybe a wire shorting to chassis or to another random wire somewhere

 

[mkkm]

Try disconnect the switch as suggested...if it still does not work then maybe a wire shorting to chassis or to another random wire somewhere

Thanks. I got home from the campus and disconnected the switch. I then started the KK with and without the switch connected. Still no 4WD dash lights and the KK is still feels that it is in 4WD. Thanks guys. Still will hope for any more suggestions. The fuse listed as "J2" deals with the transfer case electrics. I am new to Jeeps. Actually, I am almost 50 and this is the first non-Ford I have ever own. Not including the KK that was totaled 3 months after I got it. That one was built at the dealership and sold cheap. I purchased it in January and it took me within 20 miles of the Canadian boarder and brought me back without breaking a sweat. Five days later a sweet little old lady did a NASCAR move on me and turned me into a guardrail at highway speed and the KK didn't flip and was able to drive off, being eventually totaled. That is why I purchased this one and now I am having issues.

Update or something I may have never noticed. On the transfer case console switch there is letter "N" that is red. The position of the lighted letter was behind the switch, so I am not sure if it was always on or not. Its on now. Thanks guys.

 

[mkkm]

Update: Last for the night. Its 0200hrs and I gotta give up because I might have made it worst. I tried to get the KK out of the transfer switch neutral position by using this method.

1. Bring the vehicle to a complete stop, leaving it connected to the tow vehicle.

2. Firmly apply the parking brake.

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON/RUN position, but do not start the engine.

4. Press and hold the brake pedal.

5. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL.

6. Using the point of a ballpoint pen or similar object, press and hold the recessed transfer case NEUTRAL (N) button (located above the selector switch) for one second.

7. After the NEUTRAL (N) indicator light turns off, release the NEUTRAL (N) button.

8. After the NEUTRAL (N) button has been released, the transfer case will shift to the position indicated by the selector switch.

At that point I can hear and feel the transfer case attempting to switch something back and forth. While I am doing that the red "N" is flashing. It does the shifting sound and shutter about 5 times and then stops. Once the I switched it to 4WD and the 4WD indicator came on, but read "N" stayed on. Now the truck does not move at all in drive or reverse, which makes me think that its stuck in neutral towing position. I gotta get some sleep, so again thanks in advance for any suggestions.

 

[Turk]

I know this is old, but I never seen a solution. In my experience with the 08 Liberty KK any kind of wacky electronics stuff like this leads to the TIPM needing replaced. They are 300-500 if you buy 1 rebuilt, I recommend Macs TIPM rebuilders on ebay. So the 2 times mine needed replaced, once the electronic door locks stopped working, the fuse would keep blowing. Just a couple months ago the headlights went out, but the foglights still worked which saved me and I could commute until I received a new 1. The lights would flicker for 30 seconds, until they went out every time i turned them on. The headlight ground is built inside the TIPM, I assume that was my issue.

The TIPM is the fuse box under the hood, its easy to replace, 7 harnesses and after you verify the replacement TIPM has the correct numbers, tie your battery terminals together with zip ties to do a soft reset while you install the TIPM. I let mine sit for 1 hour, then hooked the battery back up. . Macs is the most legit company that rebuilds them.

Another issue I had, but did not need to replace, my 1st experience with the TIPM, it was really cold out, around zero degrees, and My jeep did not have any power at all, even the key fob would not unlock. Jumping did nothing. I had it towed and the shop just unhooked the TIPM and hooked it back up and it worked, never had that issue again until 5 years later when the door lock thing happened.

So if you buy from Macs, you swap it out, there are plenty of vids on youtube, the harnesses are tricky at 1st, but the vids explain step by step. After its swapped out you turn the key 2 times not starting it, let it sit for 90 seconds I believe, turn the key off and out, put key back in and it should fire up. You will have codes, driving around for a hour got rid of them.
My 1st replacement was not from Macs, I got it from a company that was cheaper, Macs was so much better. That 1st company sent me a dud the 2nd time, it even was melted where there was an obvious fire. It did not work. Macs looked brand new and fired right up.
The best was you install it imo, make sure you have all your tools, and go to a shop you trust and do it in their lot in case you have issues and they can hook an OEM scan tool up to it. If you do have issues take pics of any codes on their scan tool in case you need to do a refund.