2011 Liberty Front Brake Caliper Bolts Stuck

[beemill]

Hi,

First time post and have searched around first but don't see this specific issue. Sorry if this is already resolved elsewhere. I'm trying to do the front brake pads and can't get the bolts off that hold the caliper on. Not the caliper housing that holds the pads but the bolts that hold the caliper onto the 'knuckle?' (not sure of the right term there). I've tried hammering a wrench that's on the bolt and I can't get this thing undone (top or bottom). I actually broke a Husky ratcheting wrench by hammering it while on the bolt. I'm hoping there's a known 'trick' I'm just missing.

Thanks!

 

[Adam Roby]

I normally douse the area with some penetrating oil and let it sit a while. When really stubborn that could mean over night. I have a 6-foot bar that I use for leverage. If its really tight, I'll just crack it a bit, then spray more lube... let it sit... try again.

 

[beemill]

Thanks Adam,

I sprayed some PB blaster on it and am letting it sit. I've even hit the wrench with a dead blow and can't get it moving. I'll let it sit overnight and see what happens tomorrow. Can't get a breaker bar behind the wheel since I'm using the standard jack the car comes with. It's just not sitting up high enough.

 

[tjkj2002]

It's a fine thread 8mm bolt(takes a 12mm socket),if your not able to get it off with a regular wrench there is a issue like it was cross threaded by someone else.

 

[Adam Roby]

You could maybe try some heat... but be very careful around any rubber. Keep a bottle of ice cold water next to you, pinpoint a torch on the head of that bolt and then douse it with the cold water. It could be rusted shut, and that hot to cold contraction should crack it loose. You'll probably want to buy some new bolts and get some anti-seize for the reinstall to avoid this for the next time.

For the angle, you might be able to turn the wheel enough to get a better angle of attack with the breaker bar. I had a garage tighten my wheel lug nuts so tight that the 6-foot bar was the only way to loosen then. I replaced all 20 lugs after that, and never went back to that garage. I use the anti-seize on everything now...

 

[tjkj2002]

I use the anti-seize on everything now...

Never use anti-seize of wheel studs/lugnuts,gums up the threads after awhile,which attracts dirt which will act like sand paper ruining the threads,and the torque is listed for dry threads.

Torquing the lugnuts to 100lbs-ft when coated with anti-seize is actually torquing them closer to 130-140lbs-ft.

 

[Adam Roby]

I usually put anti-seize where the wheel meets the hub which touches the stud but does not encompass it (more to keep it clean looking outside). Its more to keep the wheel from rusting solid to the hub. I am willing to bet any money that 99% of the garages are torquing them well over 100 lbs anyway. For me to need a 6' bar to get 'em loose, and my impact set at 125 lbs and it wouldn't budge...

(back-story)
I had a Toyota (something) back when I was just starting out (2nd car maybe) and I needed to check my rear brakes but couldn't get the tire off because of rust. Long story short, me hitting it with a sledge hammer on top and my friend hitting the back bottom with a 4x4 post wouldn't budge it. Being young, dumb, and full of testosterone I left all 4 lugs off and drove off with it, taking corners like a madman but the damn thing never came off. Went home, put the lugs back on, crimped the brake line... and left it like that.

 

[Phil + Neela]

Thanks Adam,



I sprayed some PB blaster on it and am letting it sit. I've even hit the wrench with a dead blow and can't get it moving. I'll let it sit overnight and see what happens tomorrow. Can't get a breaker bar behind the wheel since I'm using the standard jack the car comes with. It's just not sitting up high enough.

I remember doing this same thing when I first removed my calipers. I bought my KK used and after putting a box wrench on the bolt (MUCH stronger than a ratchet) I whacked it with my dead blow hammer too. Turns out someone put some lock-tight on there--I could still see the red in the threads. All I can say is "give it hell!" And I hope the penetrating oil helps this things move along for you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[beemill]

Thanks for all the replies. They were the 21mm bolts that hold the caliper on the body of the car (not the bolts that hold the housing and slide pins on the caliper). PB blaster and a dead blow did the trick.

Phil + Neela - yes, there was red loctite on the threads too. Btw, also found that the lefts were wearing way more than the rights. There was a slide pin with almost no grease left on it and the rubber gasket and head of the pin were covered with / full of rust. Had to order replacements.

Front brakes all done! Thanks again for all the replies!

 

[tjkj2002]

I usually put anti-seize where the wheel meets the hub which touches the stud but does not encompass it (more to keep it clean looking outside). Its more to keep the wheel from rusting solid to the hub. I am willing to bet any money that 99% of the garages are torquing them well over 100 lbs anyway. For me to need a 6' bar to get 'em loose, and my impact set at 125 lbs and it wouldn't budge...

Yeah I can't say about other shops but where I work you torque the lugnuts with a calibrated torque wrench and must have a second person re-torque the lugnuts for you and sign off before the vehicle leaves the shop,only if the wheels came off for any service.

By the way a impact set that low will not be able to loosen properly torqued lugnuts(100lbs-ft or higher),break away torque on a lugnut that is properly torqued at 100lbs-ft can be as high as 350lbs-ft,that is what is required to break the torque,not what the lugnut is torqued to.

Thanks for all the replies. They were the 21mm bolts that hold the caliper on the body of the car (not the bolts that hold the housing and slide pins on the caliper). PB blaster and a dead blow did the trick.

Phil + Neela - yes, there was red loctite on the threads too. Btw, also found that the lefts were wearing way more than the rights. There was a slide pin with almost no grease left on it and the rubber gasket and head of the pin were covered with / full of rust. Had to order replacements.

Front brakes all done! Thanks again for all the replies!

Yeah those bolts are called the caliper mount bolts and from the factory have loc-tite applied.

The caliper mount holds the pads so that is what was confusing from your 1st post.

 

[beemill]

The caliper mount holds the pads so that is what was confusing from your 1st post.

Ahhhh, thanks. Haven't been working on my cars/bikes for very long so I get the terminology wrong all the time.

 

[Marlon_JB2]

I had the seized caliper slide pin issue a few years ago.

PITA. Had to get new caliper mount brackets. They were really stuck in there.

 

[tjkj2002]

I had the seized caliper slide pin issue a few years ago.

PITA. Had to get new caliper mount brackets. They were really stuck in there.

I run into that issue all the time at work,glad I have a special attachment for my air hammer that removes them pretty easily.