2011 Liberty rough idle after start then dies (VIDEO)

[nasferatu]

I have a 2011 Liberty with 175k miles that I can get to turn over but engine runs very rough if I'm pressing the gas pedal and then dies completely when I let off the gas pedal. *After it dies I smell gas when I exit the driver door. I feel like that could be a helpful piece of information maybe* A week ago I just took it on an 1800 mile road trip and it was solid the whole way.

No check engine light or codes showing. I'm no mechanic but here's what I've done so far:

- checked the battery which was @ 12.93v
- removed the coils and plugs
- checked plug gaps... 5 were within spec, 1 was double spec (#5 cylinder)
- replaced double spec plug with a used one that is within spec from another 2012 Liberty
- cleaned all plugs with a brush
- Ohmd all plugs with multimeter and all are good within spec

With the #5 spark plug gap being so far out of spec, I really expected that replacing that would resolve the issue, but it did not. I tried to start it and the issue remains. So, here I am.. PLEASE HELP!!

Below is a link to the audio/video of what it is doing. I have no clue where to start looking for this particular issue so any and all help is very much appreciated!!

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[David13]

Sounds like fuel starvation. I'd check fuel pressure.

Could be dirty injectors or bad injectors.

Try to find out what it is not.

Check answers to previous similar threads below.
dc

 

[nasferatu]

I agree, it sounds fuel starved.

I did a crank / no start fuel pressure test today and the pressure held at 51psi. I can hear the fuel pump prime when the key is turned to the run position. I assumed that meant the fuel pump was working fine and could be eliminated but I'm told that alone doesn't rule it out as the possible cause.

I was also told that the fuel filter and fuel pump relay on this vehicle are in the tank with the fuel pump. As a means of troubleshooting that relay, I made a 20 amp jumper out of two fuse taps and ran it from the accessory side of fuse M7 to fuse M25 to bypass the fuel pump relay and provide power to the fuel pump... But there was no change and the issue remains.

If possible, I'd really like to be certain it's the fuel pump before I drop the tank and replace the pump. There's fuel in the tank, I put a new battery in, all the fuses are good, power is good to the pump, bypassed the relay to eliminate it, fuel pump primes as it should, I've got 51psi fuel pressure in the rails, all the spark plugs are good, I cleaned and gap checked each one.... I think all that's left to check are the injectors and if those are good then it must be the pump??

 

[nasferatu]

Question... If it starts with the help of starter fluid, then that would mean that the fuel pump is the culprit, correct?

 

[lfhoward]

Mine was doing something similar with hot starts (like 10 mins after parking at the grocery store when the engine was heat soaked). I could get the Jeep to start if I primed the fuel pump more than once without starting it, then starting it. Replacing the fuel pump solved the issue. Mine had over 210K miles on it.

 

[john e denson]

Mine was doing something similar with hot starts (like 10 mins after parking at the grocery store when the engine was heat soaked). I could get the Jeep to start if I primed the fuel pump more than once without starting it, then starting it. Replacing the fuel pump solved the issue. Mine had over 210K miles on it.

Mine was doing something similar with hot starts (like 10 mins after parking at the grocery store when the engine was heat soaked). I could get the Jeep to start if I primed the fuel pump more than once without starting it, then starting it. Replacing the fuel pump solved the issue. Mine had over 210K miles on it.

 

[john e denson]

I wonder if all this happened after you put gas in your tank. I would put some in a glass jar and check it out before I replaced the pump. Then I would do some more easy checks before I replaced pump. I have a 2005 and it has a ICV IDLE CONTROL VALVE not sure about a 2011. It is strange not getting any codes. running that bad should throw some codes. Just cause it runs with starting fluid does not mean it is the pump.

 

[Jump]

Good Morning, I was having a similar issue where I would have a hard to start condition after multiple short trips in very hot days. For me it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The OEM sensor when hot, would not give a proper resistance within range and the ECU would not know the position of the crankshaft when starting, so it would try to start but never engage unless you let it turn over on extended crank. This is one of the easier solutions to start with and I'd say try this before attempting something like a fuel pump. The part that worked for me was a CarQuest Sensor from Advance Auto there are two similar ones, I recommend opting for the one with limited-lifetime warranty. Part#:CSC1062

I'm 90% sure that it's this, mine made the same noise when it was hot and it's a simple fix, as long as the sensor isn't too stuck on.

Good Luck!

 

[nasferatu]

I wonder if all this happened after you put gas in your tank. I would put some in a glass jar and check it out before I replaced the pump. Then I would do some more easy checks before I replaced pump. I have a 2005 and it has a ICV IDLE CONTROL VALVE not sure about a 2011. It is strange not getting any codes. running that bad should throw some codes. Just cause it runs with starting fluid does not mean it

Good Morning, I was having a similar issue where I would have a hard to start condition after multiple short trips in very hot days. For me it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The OEM sensor when hot, would not give a proper resistance within range and the ECU would not know the position of the crankshaft when starting, so it would try to start but never engage unless you let it turn over on extended crank. This is one of the easier solutions to start with and I'd say try this before attempting something like a fuel pump. The part that worked for me was a CarQuest Sensor from Advance Auto there are two similar ones, I recommend opting for the one with limited-lifetime warranty. Part#:CSC1062

I'm 90% sure that it's this, mine made the same noise when it was hot and it's a simple fix, as long as the sensor isn't too stuck on.

Good Luck!

Thank you so much for taking the time to pass that information on to me.. I really appreciate it! I will check into that this evening and post an update.

 

[nasferatu]

Good Morning, I was having a similar issue where I would have a hard to start condition after multiple short trips in very hot days. For me it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The OEM sensor when hot, would not give a proper resistance within range and the ECU would not know the position of the crankshaft when starting, so it would try to start but never engage unless you let it turn over on extended crank. This is one of the easier solutions to start with and I'd say try this before attempting something like a fuel pump. The part that worked for me was a CarQuest Sensor from Advance Auto there are two similar ones, I recommend opting for the one with limited-lifetime warranty. Part#:CSC1062

I'm 90% sure that it's this, mine made the same noise when it was hot and it's a simple fix, as long as the sensor isn't too stuck on.

Good Luck!

Is there a relearn procedure or anything I need to do after installing the new Crankshaft or Camshaft Position Sensors?

Good Morning, I was having a similar issue where I would have a hard to start condition after multiple short trips in very hot days. For me it was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. The OEM sensor when hot, would not give a proper resistance within range and the ECU would not know the position of the crankshaft when starting, so it would try to start but never engage unless you let it turn over on extended crank. This is one of the easier solutions to start with and I'd say try this before attempting something like a fuel pump. The part that worked for me was a CarQuest Sensor from Advance Auto there are two similar ones, I recommend opting for the one with limited-lifetime warranty. Part#:CSC1062

I'm 90% sure that it's this, mine made the same noise when it was hot and it's a simple fix, as long as the sensor isn't too stuck on.

Good Luck!

 

[Jump]

Is there a relearn procedure or anything I need to do after installing the new Crankshaft or Camshaft Position Sensors?

Nope, just plug and play. If it was the issue, the Jeep should just restart as normal after a couple if not the first crank.

 

[Chuckstruck78]

I have a 2011 Liberty with 175k miles that I can get to turn over but engine runs very rough if I'm pressing the gas pedal and then dies completely when I let off the gas pedal. *After it dies I smell gas when I exit the driver door. I feel like that could be a helpful piece of information maybe* A week ago I just took it on an 1800 mile road trip and it was solid the whole way.

No check engine light or codes showing. I'm no mechanic but here's what I've done so far:

- checked the battery which was @ 12.93v
- removed the coils and plugs
- checked plug gaps... 5 were within spec, 1 was double spec (#5 cylinder)
- replaced double spec plug with a used one that is within spec from another 2012 Liberty
- cleaned all plugs with a brush
- Ohmd all plugs with multimeter and all are good within spec

With the #5 spark plug gap being so far out of spec, I really expected that replacing that would resolve the issue, but it did not. I tried to start it and the issue remains. So, here I am.. PLEASE HELP!!

Below is a link to the audio/video of what it is doing. I have no clue where to start looking for this particular issue so any and all help is very much appreciated!!

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Any updates to the actual issue? I am currently experiencing this same issue. Crank postion sensor was the first thing I replaced, didnt fix the issue.

 

[ShowMe Cherokee]

I assume you checked all your coil and injector wiring? I have had mice chew through wiring on my injectors before, and it was hard to tell until I pulled on them. Usually throws a misfire code though. If you have a noid light set, you can check that the injectors are getting power.