250A Alternator?

[Johnny O]

Was reading through the old threads about higher output alternators. Currently I'm preparing to finish my dual AGM battery/solar system. Even without the mobile lab equipment running, the lights dim a bit when the subwoofer kicks. I just ordered a 12v Fridge/freezer as I need to be able to keep the reagents for the Minion Portable DNA sequencer I bought for my Labs. As I run through the math, the current weak point in the system is the stock alternator.

The other threads on this subject never seemed to reach a consensus on any of the heavier alternators. By my count I'm in the market for a 250 amp unit.

Input? Suggestions?

 

[insane]

Mechman Alternators, they have a 320amp alt for the 02-04 3.4L jeeps, I’m pretty sure at least. They might have more but this company makes beautiful alts.

 

[Dave_too]

I have a 285 amp alternator I got from Singer that's worked for me. It took a bit to get it, but as long as you're in no rush, I think it was worth the small wait. As you can see by Insane's pix, you'll likely be installing a couple of busbars (grounding and power), 1/0 cable and a big fat fuse along with it. My install was done here in Zambia and is not quite as clean as the above. I like your color choice, Insane. Mine is similiar with maybe a touch more purple in the tint!

 

[insane]

I appreciate that Dave, I did it myself about a year ago, running strong. Mechman didn’t have the best color of purple available but it works the same, I have a big three upgrade 1/0 cable and one of those running to my rear battery.

Cables by Sky High Car Audio

 

[Dave_too]

What did you choose for an isolator for the battery in the back, Insane? Mechanical or electronic?

 

[insane]

Neither, I didn’t do an iso because my batteries are both AGM, they don’t have any battery drain and they’ll sit at 13.5-13 volts for days without starting.

If I had a AGM battery and a different style then I would use an iso

 

[Black6D]

You may want to install a filter on your setup to make sure that you getting clean power to your lab electronics. I work at the Cdn coast guard and the techs are currently doing a project for a mobile lab in a trailer and on a Ford 550 platform with pod. The equipment requires clean power to function correctly.

 

[LibertyTC]

As far as I know, the KJ's system was designed with an AMP limiting PCM (power train control module) & limited to a Denso 160 amp maximum alternator.
I'm not a specialist but wouldn't the cables need to be a larger gauge and by-pass to an external volt regulator?
The 2006 FSM is here, see section 8F-26 http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2006-KJ-SM.pdf
It would be worthwhile to consult an automotive electrical specialist, for their advice.
Larger loads also require more amps & test equipment is necessary.

 

[insane]

I like to think that my sound system is a separate electrical system from the rest of the KJ’s system, power straight from the alternator to the batteries then amps. Then speakers and what not. I am using the factory voltage regulator on the alternator as well and that keeps the rest of the cars system happy.

 

[Johnny O]

You may want to install a filter on your setup to make sure that you getting clean power to your lab electronics. I work at the Cdn coast guard and the techs are currently doing a project for a mobile lab in a trailer and on a Ford 550 platform with pod. The equipment requires clean power to function correctly.

Yep. Clean power is a must. My design is based on the Army Core of Engineers mobile lab I dove all over the Omaha district. (Largest in the country) Thankfully the DNA sequencer runs off a laptop, but the fridge and freezer have to have clean stable poser to avoid freeze/thaw cycles on the reagents. I've also got an FTIR, NanoDrop. and a bunch of PCR equipment to run.

 

[Johnny O]

As far as I know, the KJ's system was designed with an AMP limiting PCM (power train control module) & limited to a Denso 160 amp maximum alternator.
I'm not a specialist but wouldn't the cables need to be a larger gauge and by-pass to an external volt regulator?
The 2006 FSM is here, see section 8F-26 http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2006-KJ-SM.pdf
It would be worthwhile to consult an automotive electrical specialist, for their advice.
Larger loads also require more amps & test equipment is necessary.

I wonder what @Billwill has to say on the subject. I'm pretty good with electronics but automotive stuff is kind of out of my industrial/military expertise.

 

[02blue]

Thankfully the DNA sequencer runs off a laptop, but the fridge and freezer have to have clean stable poser to avoid freeze/thaw cycles on the reagents. I've also got an FTIR, NanoDrop. and a bunch of PCR equipment to run.

If you put the regents in a "Stratacooler" or some cooling block with some temperature buffering capacity (in the freezer too) they'll be fine for quite a while if there is a modest disruption. If you won't be actually running the equipment while moving it might be easier to get a small generator to maintain current. Seems like only the PCR would require a decent run time but not very familiar with the FTIR instrumentation. Our Nanodrop/Denovix and Proflex thermal cycler have a pretty good electrical buffering to brief interruptions and brownouts.

 

[Johnny O]

If you put the regents in a "Stratacooler" or some cooling block with some temperature buffering capacity (in the freezer too) they'll be fine for quite a while if there is a modest disruption. If you won't be actually running the equipment while moving it might be easier to get a small generator to maintain current. Seems like only the PCR would require a decent run time but not very familiar with the FTIR instrumentation. Our Nanodrop/Denovix and Proflex thermal cycler have a pretty good electrical buffering to brief interruptions and brownouts.

Yep to blocks for reagents. The thermocycler, qPCR, and centrifuge are the the items that I worry about most to to their draw. I have our have converted most everything else to USB.

A big reason to get this all running is I have plans to visit tribal schools so the kids can do experiments out on the res.

Plus it’s proof of concept so we can convert one of the Uni’s. 15 passenger van into a mobile lab.

 

[Johnny O]

If you put the regents in a "Stratacooler" or some cooling block with some temperature buffering capacity (in the freezer too) they'll be fine for quite a while if there is a modest disruption. If you won't be actually running the equipment while moving it might be easier to get a small generator to maintain current. Seems like only the PCR would require a decent run time but not very familiar with the FTIR instrumentation. Our Nanodrop/Denovix and Proflex thermal cycler have a pretty good electrical buffering to brief interruptions and brownouts.

Also, it’s good to see another Liberty Scientist on here. Think there’s like 4 of us now!

 

[lfhoward]

If you’re interested in building a LiFePO4 deep cycle battery to run your equipment (and take the load off the alternator), let me know. I built one for my research trailer and documented the whole thing. You could charge it by solar or a dc-dc converter or a combination of both. I have a 156 amp hour setup that has useful capacity down to 10% without damaging the battery. That’s the beauty of LiFePO4 vs lead acid, where the useful amps run out at 50% discharge. Also and they take up 1/3 of the space and weigh 2/3 less.

 

[Dave_too]

If you’re interested in building a LiFePO4 deep cycle battery to run your equipment (and take the load off the alternator), let me know. I built one for my research trailer and documented the whole thing. You could charge it by solar or a dc-dc converter or a combination of both. I have a 156 amp hour setup that has useful capacity down to 10% without damaging the battery. That’s the beauty of LiFePO4 vs lead acid, where the useful amps run out at 50% discharge. Also and they take up 1/3 of the space and weigh 2/3 less.

I'd very much like to see that if you're willing. I've hesitated on the second battery mainly because of the size thing. There's not a lot of spare space either under the hood or behind the rear seat. My better half and I are "retiring" in four months and settling down in the low desert in southern California. I'm looking forward to driving trails and camping with some of the comforts of home in the Spring time.

 

[lfhoward]

I'd very much like to see that if you're willing. I've hesitated on the second battery mainly because of the size thing. There's not a lot of spare space either under the hood or behind the rear seat. My better half and I are "retiring" in four months and settling down in the low desert in southern California. I'm looking forward to driving trails and camping with some of the comforts of home in the Spring time.

I distilled out what I learned in the process of making my LiFePO4 battery in this how-to thread over on the Teardrops and Tiny Travel Trailers forum:

Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers • View topic - HOW TO: LiFePO4 battery DIY

There is a lot to know, but I tried to put most of it into one thread. Let me know if I can help answer any questions.

 

[Dave_too]

thanks for much!

 

[Johnny O]

I'd very much like to see that if you're willing. I've hesitated on the second battery mainly because of the size thing. There's not a lot of spare space either under the hood or behind the rear seat. My better half and I are "retiring" in four months and settling down in the low desert in southern California. I'm looking forward to driving trails and camping with some of the comforts of home in the Spring time.

Count me in too. Was another alternative I’ve been eyeballing for the equipment

 

[lfhoward]

Keep in mind charging a LiFePO4 direct from the alternator will fry your alternator. Victron makes a nice DC-DC converter that can charge the battery safely while you drive without causing magic white smoke.

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