3.73 vs 4.10

[Renedave]

If you have the Trac Lok the Aussie won't do you any favors, since you'll have to swap carriers.

Good point there, I was thinking more for folks like me that have an open diff already in the rear of the KJ. Having to swap out the carrier means you're paying $75 + $299 for the carrier and Aussie versus $700 for a Detroit, and the installation and gear setup cost becomes fairly equitable.

Available,and works well. www.aussielocker.com

Good to hear, I hadn't checked in a while and the last I heard there were still availability problems with the 8.25 Aussie.

a spool can not break loose
it is machined so the ring gear bolts up and the shafts slide in
a spool has NO moving parts

and I had 2 "lunchbox" lockers fail
they worked fine for little while and trust me they handle like a$$ compared
to my Detroit

Okay, apparently you're determined to be thick about the automatic locker action. Whatever. What axles/tires/lockers have you had fail on you? I'm not saying lunchbox lockers don't fail, since I've seen some spectacularly mangled when an axle shaft goes, but I've seen Detroits self destruct as well.

 

[J-Thompson]

What is there to be thick about
Auto lockers ,like a Detroit, lock and unlock
Spools do not unlock

2 power trax failed on trails under a level 3 of 5
not shafts just lockers ,broke the little washers
that unlock in a turn

 

[Renedave]

Meh. A Lock-Right isn't an Aussie, which is stronger, quieter, and handles better (having had a Lock-Right in a front axle that continually wanted to turn the wheels full lock to driver when in 2WD reverse). And I'm stumped by what you're calling "little washers" - the parts that ratchet are the coupler and driver, and they're by far the largest pieces of the locker - the only washers in there are the spacers you pull from around the spider gears. The Powertrax No-Slip locker has washers, but that's a different beast altogether.

Regardless, thank you for your response, but I can't take it as credible at this point.

 

[J-Thompson]

Meh. A Lock-Right isn't an Aussie, which is stronger, quieter, and handles better (having had a Lock-Right in a front axle that continually wanted to turn the wheels full lock to driver when in 2WD reverse). And I'm stumped by what you're calling "little washers" - the parts that ratchet are the coupler and driver, and they're by far the largest pieces of the locker - the only washers in there are the spacers you pull from around the spider gears. The Powertrax No-Slip locker has washers, but that's a different beast altogether.

Regardless, thank you for your response, but I can't take it as credible at this point.

Yeah um
Did you read or just troll?
I had a power trax
It has 6 ,IIRC, larger pcs. 2 of which are
very thin with teeth on them
for some reason they like to break into
several smaller things

Now let's talk about credit
Tell us more about the spool that let's go
or releases like a Detroit will

 

[J-Thompson]

I just thought about it
maybe you are talking about the slop
found in some Licoln Lockers?

 

[tjkj2002]

If your going to pull the carrier and have to swap in a open carrier to run a crap-tastic aussie(or any other lunchbox locker) might as well spend the $100 more for the full Detroit like JT states.You will destroy the axles and R&P before blowing the Detroit in a 8.25.


Oh and there has been many issues with the aussie in a 8.25,one guy blew one up in less then 1400 miles.Aussie also states there are alot of variances between 8.25's so it's a crap-shoot if it will last or not in a 8.25.

 

[Renedave]

I just thought about it
maybe you are talking about the slop
found in some Licoln Lockers?

Nah, I'm talking about how automatic lockers like to bind up and push you straight while accelerating in a turn (or worse, when merging into traffic), and when they release throw you into the turn. I've run Detroits and Aussies in both Dana 44s and Ford 8.8s, and to my perception they pretty much behave the same. Yes, manageable once you learn the do's and don'ts and how to steer with the throttle, but commuting in traffic can still give you a few white hairs from time to time.

I know what you're talking about with the loose lincoln locks, though - just filling in the side gear teeth in a cross pattern instead of welding the spider gears and pin will do that.

Apparently ya'll have had much worse experiences with Aussies than I have. You're never going to get an argument from me that Detroits aren't beef, and much more robust than any lunchbox, though.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

ThunderbirdJunkie does not like the Aussie in his 8.25".

That is all.

 

[tjkj2002]

ThunderbirdJunkie does not like the Aussie in his 8.25".

That is all.

TBJ needs a 8.25 with a ARB and 4.10's already installed for a killer price.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

WAIT
ThunderbirdJunkie thought you had a Detroit in the 8.25!

 

[tjkj2002]

WAIT
ThunderbirdJunkie thought you had a Detroit in the 8.25!

Nope,ARB,Yukon 4.10's,Yukon HD axles,and Ruffstuff diff cover. I had the detroit TrueTrac in the front D30A with Dana/Spicer 4.10's.

 

[AlexKJ]

Nope,ARB,Yukon 4.10's,Yukon HD axles,and Ruffstuff diff cover. I had the detroit TrueTrac in the front D30A with Dana/Spicer 4.10's.

Cool setup... not that I expected otherwise though

 

[tjkj2002]

Cool setup... not that I expected otherwise though

That setup is about the best for a KJ,totally invisable on the street and unbeatable traction on the trail.I actually miss thefront DTT but sadly I had to go with a front ARB since the DTT is only rated for 33" or smaller tires.

You should see the size of a D60 ARB,my god that thing is huge,won't be breaking that one.

 

[J-Thompson]

Nah, I'm talking about how automatic lockers like to bind up and push you straight while accelerating in a turn (or worse, when merging into traffic), and when they release throw you into the turn. I've run Detroits and Aussies in both Dana 44s and Ford 8.8s, and to my perception they pretty much behave the same. Yes, manageable once you learn the do's and don'ts and how to steer with the throttle, but commuting in traffic can still give you a few white hairs from time to time.

I know what you're talking about with the loose lincoln locks, though - just filling in the side gear teeth in a cross pattern instead of welding the spider gears and pin will do that.

Apparently ya'll have had much worse experiences with Aussies than I have. You're never going to get an argument from me that Detroits aren't beef, and much more robust than any lunchbox, though.

These are the statements of some one who has little to no experience a locked rig
Yes automatic lockers lock when you hit the gas ,nature of their design
but that is not "binding" that is working and in my experience the Detroit is smoother than the Lunchbox lockers
I do not DD my rig but then again it is a "trail mostly" wrangler that has "seen better days"
however I do drive it 200-300+ miles 1 way to go wheel
I still want to know about the "spool release"
You did not explain that yet
I am talking about this line
"Erm, I said "spool-release". If you know what a spooled differential is, then consider what it feels like when that breaks loose and releases"
I want to know what spool "breaks loose and releases"

 

[Renedave]

Oh for 'eff's sake, I was making an analogy. And you're so right, I have no experience driving locked vehicles on the road and nobody ever experiences exactly what I described. #-o So, whatever, you want an e-******* match go have it with yourself, but at least you spelled "release" correctly this time.

 

[yodejt02]

I guess I must be in the minority, cause I have not had a problem yet with my power trax. I have not heard any thing abnormal sounding coming from the rear diff.:-k
The only difference is that when turning on loose gravel I will hear the tire grab, and when not properly aired down and in 2wheel drive on sandy soil the rear has a tendacy to dig in to the ground.

I may not hit trails as hard as some, but I can sure tell a difference in being locked and open. And I had a slight increase in miles changing from 245/75/16 mudrovers to 31/10.5 Treadwrights still running 3.73's. Would love to change to 4.10's but other than city driving(small town) and driving to wheel have not really seen a need to.

This thread has been an interesting read though!

 

[J-Thompson]

I guess I must be in the minority, cause I have not had a problem yet with my power trax. I have not heard any thing abnormal sounding coming from the rear diff.:-k
The only difference is that when turning on loose gravel I will hear the tire grab, and when not properly aired down and in 2wheel drive on sandy soil the rear has a tendacy to dig in to the ground.

I may not hit trails as hard as some, but I can sure tell a difference in being locked and open. And I had a slight increase in miles changing from 245/75/16 mudrovers to 31/10.5 Treadwrights still running 3.73's. Would love to change to 4.10's but other than city driving(small town) and driving to wheel have not really seen a need to.

This thread has been an interesting read though!

You have a properly working power trax
my problem was the same problem that Aussie claims with the 8.25
The TJ Dana 44 trac lock varies and the trac lock has internal shims to adjust for this but Power trax does not so it is hit or miss and when you miss they
self destruct under heavy load ,like the 2 I had did
Richmond or Power Trax would have kept sending me new ones until
I got 1 that worked but what a PITA that would have been
and having a locker go out on a trail ***** so I simply asked for my money
back ,which I got in the form of a Detroit + the difference
but the headaches were still my problem

 

[WesChapman]

Update:

Haven't fixed the rear end yet, still putting 100 miles a day on it.
Found a junkyard rear end, but they want $650 for it and it's 250 miles away.
I hate being in this position. I can't afford to fix it, I can't afford to have it down.