6" Lift parts list "need help"

[docmauk]

Hello all, brand new 2007 KJ owner from Virginia. Will someone please help look this over? Trying to get a solid 6" under 3k

---------------------------------front------------------------------------------------
RRO Under-The-Top strut spacers 1.5" Price $189 Rocky Road Ou
3.5 X-Factor RK-KJ35XF strut Forks 3.5" Price $329 4WD.com
Ironman front springs 1.5" Price $132 JBA's Rancho RS999764 myride strut x2 Price $268 Amazon
Als A Arms Price $396 JBA's
Break line 4" lift Price $193 JBA's
Bump Stop "teraflex" Price $22 JBA's
Al's cut down cv's (FR&FL) Price $631 JBA's
----------------------------------rear--------------------------------------------
X-Factor rear spring spacer 3.5" included
rancho RS9000XL 2.5" rear shock Price $226 JBA's
Al's 2.5" rear springs 2.5" Price $176 JBA's
Al's "y" link extension Price $52 JBA's
Rear bump stop Price $29 JBA's
Rancho MyRide RS999705 remote Price $314 Amazon
total $2,957

thanks for looking
opcorn:

 

[tommudd]

Already answered this on another forum as to why it won't work
for one you'd have over 7.5 inches of lift and be completely undriveable

To get a "solid 6 inch lift" and be able to drive it will cost some serious coin, plus you haven't even started with regearing/ steel front diff etc
In the end you'd have a ton of $$$$
Look over the various posts of Honduras, he did it right, had JBAs 6inch kits etc

 

[docmauk]

Confused: X-factor fork + new strut & spring + rro top plate assembled = ?

Seems to me to be one ""bad a**" solid unit. If not then at least the fork/clevis with new shocks/springs would be a good 4+"

Am I wrong?

 

[Hedsic]

Confused: X-factor fork + new strut & spring + rro top plate assembled = ?

Seems to me to be one ""bad a**" solid unit. If not then at least the fork/clevis with new shocks/springs would be a good 4+"

Am I wrong?

:Whoa:

 

[tjkj2002]

With all that junk you will not get it aligned since your still missing some front pieces and will have over 7.5" of lift.The CV's will never survive a trip around the block either.The rear you will need shocks that work on a 6"+ KJ lift,2.5" lift shocks will not cut it and blowout fast and severly limit rear articulation.You also will need brake lines for a 6" lift,not a 4" lift.

Lastly with that much lift your going to look funny running 31" tires so you need to factor in regearing and the lowest you can go is 4.10's in the front D30A so 32" tires is max and still will look tiny.So figure in the cost of JBA's steel front diff so you can regear to 4.56's/4.88's to run 33" tires.

It will take $8000-$10,000 to lift a KJ 6" the correct way and be useable in a sense,will never work or last correctly eitherway.That lift to 6" or above and make it all work and survive offroad is only achived by doing a SFA swap.

 

[docmauk]

The list is not junk as most of it is from JBA. In the list are JBA cut down cv's for the cv comment as well. Regardless, it is too much apparently. I do like the idea of replacing my rusty front clevis forks with longer, stronger ones from Rock Krawler. It also makes sense to replace shocks/struts with the unit. Based on above comments I may just get the Rock Krawler X-factor and order no lift factory replacement springs and shocks, maybe a little longer in rear as recommended. 60k miles on stock suspension right now. I wanted 6" but realistically I'll settle for 3.5"

 

[tommudd]

Confused: X-factor fork + new strut & spring + rro top plate assembled = ?

Seems to me to be one ""bad a**" solid unit. If not then at least the fork/clevis with new shocks/springs would be a good 4+"

Am I wrong?

It would be bad a** for sure
bad a** piece of undriveable junk
Stay away from those junk lift parts like the X factor, Rocky Road etc
we can show you how to achieve a good 3.5 to 4 inch lift for a reasonable amount but what you are suggesting is going to be just junk
Sorry to be blunt but just the way it is
Also everything above from tjkj is so true !!

 

[docmauk]

okay then, thanks for being honest. I had, years ago, a Rock Krawler lift on my wrangler and loved it, but then again it was a lot more money than this Liberty kj unit. I just still don't get it? What is wrong with those Rock Krawler clevis forks? It makes a lot of sense for someone to make a longer/stronger fork to achieve lift, how can this be a bad thing as stock is junk and is already corroding as we speak, but if you all insist, then tell me what you wish you would have got, or are happy with and I will trust your experience in regards to the Liberty.

 

[tommudd]

Lots of differences in a Wrangler lift and a KJ
Some companies make great XJ/TJ/JK lifts and complete junk for the KJ/KK crowd
There is no real need for the aftermarket clevis, clean up the stockers and they do great
As far as what you were suggesting the OME or Ironman springs give you more than the advertised height, you don't get 1.5 instead they are 2.5 or more .
Also all the JBA parts you listed were good, just mixing in X factor/ RRO was getting everything junked up, neither are good parts
If you look through JBAs site you'll see some complete kits, from OME and Ironman, you also see a complete except for bumpstops a econo lift that has everything as well
at 3.5 inches-4 you don't need cut CVs, but the UCAs are great to have
read through the various posts and see what most are running and at what height PLUS tire sizes
I've personally have run the OME 927/948 combo, the 790/948 combo/ the Ironman combo and now have the 4 inch coilover setup plus installed a bunch of them so can tell you pretty much how each rides and handles plus what each modification will give you

 

[docmauk]

Thanks for steering me in the right direction. Has anyone tried mixing the yellow ironman springs with the yellow oldmanemu shocks? start a yellow theme, maybe? Might look tight with my all black liberty, probably won't show much though huh? Too bad no powder coated yellow control arms. Just sayin..

 

[Austerity]

My yellow OME shocks are very visible on my Silver KJ, but I must say, do NOT install anything on the terms of it being "tight", it won't get you far. It will get you about as far as your laundry list of "quality" parts. Sorry if I come across as a jerk, but I'm nowhere near as bad as tjkj2002 can be if you really push him

 

[docmauk]

Any positive feedback on combining the ome shocks with ironman springs? Pardon me Austerity but tight, sweet, etc. are part of my everyday language and would not be installed based on that alone. There is no sense in making this personal. I do however, appreciate pointing out that your ome shocks show well, that helps some. I don't see a reference of anyone mentioning this combination, but both are recommended lifts. I can't be the only one that appreciates quality parts and good looks together.

 

[colorado76]

Docmauk,
I have been in your shoes, I use to have the Rock Klawer X-Factor and I tried to combined OME Springs and RRO Upper Strut Plates. It looked cool as hell but the CV Shafts were in such a bind that it could not be driven. So I removed the RK X- Factor strut forks, and put it back together with the stock forks. It worked and I like the ride height that it is now and then put on a new set of 31'S. So please listen to Tommudd, and TJKJ 2002 they know, I am sure that they have tried something like that before. I will tell you that I did combine the RK rear spacers with my OME Springs and that worked, and I will have to get longer rear break lines soon. Good luck with your Libby.

 

[tommudd]

Can't see much of the shocks anyways BUT the OMEs would work, little different color though

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rear shows up more really

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Currently red looks good to me

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[4x4kayak2112]

Ooohhh red is sexy!

Sent from my Home Phone using Tapatalk

 

[docmauk]

4x4kayak2112 you made me laugh, thanks. Red does look sexy! Thank you all for the valuable input.

 

[Honduras]

Having run the JBA 6" lift, my recommendation, if you're interested in overall performance AND reliability, would be to go no higher than 4". Any higher than that and you start running into issues with u-joints and bushings wearing out prematurely (you'll need a yoke slip eliminator), hoping that you can properly align your tires without having to hack away at your steering knuckles, as well as dealing with severe tie rod angles (unless you do a cradle drop, which just defeats the purpose of lifting in the first place).

It's a great lift for mild to semi-moderate trail riding, but anything more than that and your asking for problems. Once you get everything dialed in, it's great on the roads.

However, if you must have 6+" of lift that will be reliable and far more capable, you're definitely going to want to take the SFA route. There isn't any other way around it. I took the IFS lift as far as anyone can possibly take it, only to end up admitting defeat and going the SFA route.

I was stubborn. Don't go above 4" while running IFS.

 

[Luke]

I can't be the only one that appreciates quality parts and good looks together.

Nope ... that's why I painted my stuff the color I wanted including my "stealth" A arms. Good Luck!