AC Clutch destroyed itself...

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TwoBobsKJ

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So was on a weeklong business trip this week and while getting on the interstate in the middle of Nowhere, Pennsylvania my AC clutch gave up the ghost. Was really peeved at first because even at 10 at night it was 82 degrees and muggy - really wanted that cold air. Of course the AC was blowing intermittent cold but the grinding noise from the engine bay was like nails on a chalkboard. Got to the hotel and did a search here and found the AC Bypass thread - found the part number for a Dayco belt that's 66.1" long and the routing that would/should work. Went to a local AutoZone first thing in the morning, bought the belt and broke out my tool kit in the KJ and changed it in the parking lot. Was a sweaty mess when it was done but the trick worked.

I have the HD cooling so things were a bit more complicated - this is what it looked like from up top. If you look closely you can see pieces of the clutch bearing on the compressor and fan shroud:
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Here's the routing I followed which is different from that shown in the "Cheap AC Bypass" thread here on JKJ:
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Here's how bad the pulley was flopping around on the compressor clutch (the AC is still quite cold so the compressor is fine):
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Amazing how loud it can get in the KJ cabin at 76mph with all the windows down - and how hot it stayed! My back was soaked when I got to a customer's place (my customers are farmers so my "aroma" didn't offend them at all :happy175:)

Clutch was ordered Thursday morning so hopefully will get here today or Monday :Insane:

Bob
 
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CactusJacked

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Yeah, that "other way" doesn't work at all. I tried routing mine that way and the tensioner would flop lower because the belt wasn't pulling up ^ on the pulley as the AC was.
I unbolted my compressor and raised it up out of the way of the belt, and clamped it back down above the bracket with the mounting bolt. Didn't take the clutch apart...yet.
 
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TwoBobsKJ

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Here's mine, with the compressor "lift kit", lol

Thanks Cactus.

Do you remember what length belt that is? Mine goes UNDER the idler pulley on the tensioner since it's only 66" long - but it worked to get me home so I'm not complaining.

But I should have a proper belt as a 'just in case.'


Bob
 

CactusJacked

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I used belt 5060825, 82.5" long. So are you saying you routed yours like you have the red line drawn, not like the belt is shown? That's the way I first tried it, and the tensioner wouldn't keep the belt tight. At first try it seemed like it would work, but not once it ran in. The bottom of the belt was parallel from the tensioner to the idler, so there was no pressure pulling up on the belt/tensioner.
 

LibertyTC

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***** to loose AC when it is warm/humid, but you got thru it..good work!
Wow I can't believe how loose the AC pulley became.
I wish you would have got a vid of the noise it was making while flopping around!
At how many miles did the original last anyways?
 

TwoBobsKJ

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***** to loose AC when it is warm/humid, but you got thru it..good work!
Wow I can't believe how loose the AC pulley became.
I wish you would have got a vid of the noise it was making while flopping around!
At how many miles did the original last anyways?

I just crossed over 203,000 miles when it gave up the ghost. That's pretty good for a wear item that gets used 12 months a year.

do you get that resonance frequency when the rear windows are down as I do?


Only if the rear windows are all the way down. If I keep them at about 1/3 open there's no resonance - and not as much airflow either. Got pretty hot in the KJ even at 75mph :icon_neutral:


Bob
 

TwoBobsKJ

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I used belt 5060825, 82.5" long. So are you saying you routed yours like you have the red line drawn, not like the belt is shown? That's the way I first tried it, and the tensioner wouldn't keep the belt tight. At first try it seemed like it would work, but not once it ran in. The bottom of the belt was parallel from the tensioner to the idler, so there was no pressure pulling up on the belt/tensioner.

Yep, I routed it the way my squiggly red line is drawn.

It's too short to go over the idler pulley and just short enough that there's enough tension as it's routed to turn all the accessories even when hitting 5000rpm. It's even turning the mechanical fan, and it was engaged most of the trip. I could hear the thing roaring when I slowed down then sped up again.

I need to get the belt you have as a backup for the future. After repairing the clutch the compressor will probably be next to go :emotions34:

Bob
 

JasonJ

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Same boat here fellas. I ran my belt like Cactus did..I had to go with an 88.7" long belt, K5060867. My bearing had gone to crap, kept driving on it for a couple weeks.. wiped out the bearing the rest of the way before I realized how bad it was.

So now I need a clutch/coil and bearing kit. Where are you guys ordering yours from? This one on Amazon seemed like a good pick:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FKWTO6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3TRM2OK22IDMN&coliid=I27VAEKSOF88V3

Let us know what method you are going to use to remove the seized up bearing too. I'm thinking a solid 3 or 4 jaw pulled may avoid damaging the compressor shaft....
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Same boat here fellas. I ran my belt like Cactus did..I had to go with an 88.7" long belt, K5060867. My bearing had gone to crap, kept driving on it for a couple weeks.. wiped out the bearing the rest of the way before I realized how bad it was.

So now I need a clutch/coil and bearing kit. Where are you guys ordering yours from? This one on Amazon seemed like a good pick:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FKWTO6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3TRM2OK22IDMN&coliid=I27VAEKSOF88V3

Let us know what method you are going to use to remove the seized up bearing too. I'm thinking a solid 3 or 4 jaw pulled may avoid damaging the compressor shaft....

That part is the exact one I used - fit perfectly and arrived 4 days earlier than originally estimated. Good instructions that were very clear.

You'll need a set of heavy duty snap ring pliers - standard snap ring pliers won't open the larger snap ring that holds the coil on the compressor nose. Took a bit of searching to find a pair in my area - would've saved me two hours if I'd had the right pliers when I started the project. Also, if you don't have a good set of feeler gauges you'll want to pick some up. I set the gap on the clutch at .013" (thirteen thousandths.)

If the pulley bearing is seized on the compressor nose you may need to use a Dremel to get it off, though the pulley and it's ball bearings will probably have destroyed themselves on yours like they did on mine and the bearing race will just come right off. Getting the pulley off the coil is where the puller is needed; I rented one from AutoZone that worked fine.

Once I get some time I'm going to write up a mini How-To on how I got back up and running. Much quieter A/C now :waytogo:

Bob
 

southernwake

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+1 on the snap ring pliers!

Even with the heavy duty snap ring pliers I had some issues getting that snap ring on that holds the coil on the compressor nose. The snap ring kept twisting on me and I couldnt get my fingers in there to make sure it was in the groove.
 

HoosierJeeper

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Did you have any warning signs before it stopped working and really went bad?
 

CactusJacked

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When mine went, I was smelling something "burning" was like a cross between an electrical and brakes cooking smell. This was with AC turned off. Then it started making noise. Removing the belt and giving the twirl test was the dead giveaway, the clutch was stiff and partially locking up....not freewheeling completely when off. So the semi grabbing/slipping clutch got cooked.
 

HoosierJeeper

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OK thanks. Was the smell inside or outside?

Just curious, as I have a very minor tick coming from something belt driven. Can only hear it with the hood open and with your ears near by.
 

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