AC Compressor issue - Help please

[uss2defiant]

man... good luck.
I'd try to find the leak(s) first before changing components.
There's the return and high side rubber hose too that could have a leak.

FYI aftermarket parts don't seem to make the low side orifice line in the proper length. i.e. it doesn't sit flush the side of the engine bay as OEM. The rubber hoses too might be tight.

*use a socket to push in those A/C seals.
*since you're changing all the major components, i think my pdf cheat sheet has the volume of pag oil to put in each component.

***I am not a tech and I still recommend working with a local shop as I did. YMMV. don't blame me for anything

 

[CWBenjamin]

As uss2defiant said there is no expansion valve.

That function is handled by a "fixed orifice device" located within the aluminum low side line... Both devices are used within the automotive industry... In a R134a system the system requires that a vacuum be pulled... If you don't evacuate the system the oxygen left in the system will combine with the R134a and create an acid that can/will damage the system over time... Seeing that you are replacing both the compressor and condenser I would also suggest that you replace the orifice device... It takes such a small particle to block it and make the system fail...
Dave

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-AC-A-C-Expansion-Valve-Fixed-Orifice-Tube-FOT-Expansion-Device/261220009819?fits=Year:2006|Model:Liberty&epid=75983734&hash=item3cd1ed075b:g:qOcAAMXQhpdRnp~E

Thank you Dave!
I ordered a compressor, condenser, accumulator, pag 46 oil, the orifice tube, and new gaskets and o rings... Think that should cover everything right?
I planned on putting correct amount of pag oil into the 3 major components, installing it all, hand cranking the compressor 20-30 times to make sure it is well lubricated and not choked with oil, then running a vacuum for 30-45 mins to make sure it is all good to go before I fill it with new R134A...

Does this seem about right to you? Would love any additional advice, thanks!

 

[daves06lrenegade]

If you have a set of manifold gauges, and a R134a valve (to attach to the yellow hose on the gauges)... Be careful to buy the correct valve as there is a NEW connection on the R134a cans and the old valve won't work..
See...https://www.acavalanche.com/self-sealing-valves/
See...https://www.ebay.com/itm/1Pc-Dispen...146858?hash=item4d9465462a:g:u88AAOSwqj1c4GPO
Sounds like you got it under control
These valves have a blunt center pin and work BACKWARDS from the conventional old valves (meaning that you screw the valve "closed" to open the can)... The original valve pierced the can by screwing clockwise in and then counterclockwise to open the can...the new valve (above) has a blunt end that opens as you screw clockwise into the can.... If you remove the valve on the new design can the can reseals itself and no refrigerant is lost...

Wait until you get to work on a new car/truck with R1234yf refrigerant...You will need new ends (with valves) for your RED and BLUE hoses as they changed the fittings on the high and low pressure lines...

The "new" R1234yf also uses a different PAG oil and unless you purge and flush the new system you can't use R134a... My rebuilt 2016 Chrysler 200s came to me damaged in the front end so the refrigerant was lost (Oh My... global warming )... I was told that R134a couldn't be used in a R1234yf system and it would freeze up... My Chrysler AC runs just fine with the old stuff ... I was told the compressor/condenser and accumulator were different... I checked the part numbers for these parts for 2015 and also 2016 and they were the same... The AC lines ARE different to support the "new" fittings but there are adapters available to allow all the AC equipment you just bought to work flawlessly...
R1234yf $40.00 (or more) for an 8oz can (it's supposed to breakdown faster in the atmosphere)
R134a $4.00 (or less) for a 12oz can (it's supposed to have a longer breakdown)

Get this... the experts are saying you CAN replace R134a with R1234yf WHEN R134a is no longer available...Flush the system, replace the accumulator, add the new PAG oil and again use adapters to convert R134a fittings to the R1234yf standard...
Always something NEW and more expensive from our EPA..
Dave

 

[CWBenjamin]

Dang man! Sounds like the run around I get from everything I try to research initially haha. Well thanks a lot for your knowledge man

 

[CWBenjamin]

Okay so today I removed all the old components and replaced everything on the engine side...

New compressor with correct amount of oil in it,
new condenser with correct amount of oil,
new accumulator with correct amount of oil,
new high side line with the new orifice tube in it,
new o-rings and gaskets on every connection.

Ran vacuum on the system for 45 mins or so. Holds fine.
Ran a vacuum again before pumping r134a into it.
Now I have 45 psi on both sides and the compressor is not kicking on at all...

Any clues what could be left? I know there are 2 sensors/switches one on the accumulator and one on the compressor...

The old compressor was kicking on and off constantly, and no cold air...

 

[uss2defiant]

did you put in the correct amount of refrigerant?
sounds like it's still low in refrigerant.

I assumed you evacuated the system then shut the valves to only observer internal vacuum?

Did your PAG oil already have dye in it? check for leaks.

I assumed you also purged the yellow tube of air with refrigerant before opening up the low side valve on the manifold?

 

[adamkrz]

Should be enough psi to kick on compressor, check the low psi switch on the accumulator.

How much refrigerant did you put in the system and how did you know how much oil to put back?

Both the yellow and blue lines should be purged or only the yellow if your breaking the vacuum with refrigerant.

 

[CWBenjamin]

Hey guys sorry I haven't gotten back to this...
Turns out the new compressor was bad, but I was able to fix it.. The power plug had a pin that got knocked back into the connector.

Turns out it was just kinda cold outside and it took a lot longer to get the refrigerant to go into the system after I got the compressor working, but now all seems to be well!!!

Thanks for all the help guys!