Another Subwoofer Box Update w/extras

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ShadowedXistence

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http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40697

Removed the seats to make it easier to relocate wiring and sensors under seats... bent the metal seat belt sensor bracket up after removing sensor (what a useless spot to mount in the first place!) Screwed boxes into floor with 2in. self-drill screws... remounted seats...

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Rear Cargo Shelf

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Exterior - Mostly Stock

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That's all I got til the ol' lady allows me to dump some money into the equipment for the stereo...
 

AMPlibby06

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looks great!!! Looks like you really used all of your space and did a legit job. It also seems like you have a little extra room height-wise. obviously some of that space above will be filled by the sub, and you have to leave a little room for them to resonate right? I like how accessible the couplers are!! how will you run wires to the couplers without it being obvious though? great job!! would you ever be willing to build and sell these?
 

ShadowedXistence

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I plan to run the wires under the center console, up and around the backside of the glovebox, and back under the panels below the doors... the amplifier will be mounted under the rear seat... the power wire comes through the left side of the vehicle, so running the speaker wires through the right side, will limit my noise interference...

I could definately build some extras but more so to actually PERFECT my design... HOWEVER... my carpet job is not professional, and I will be having them redone professionally, also, the carpet color isn't as perfect as I would have liked, so I have to search the internet to find an exact color match, for a more OEM look... the extra space is also needed for a set of grilles (don't need someone dropping something stupid on top of my subs) as well as there needs to be space for the seat to move forward and backward

In terms of you having a set of your own... my honest suggestion... if you have an auto audio shop near you, I could give you the dimensions if you want to have them built... keep in mind, it is important to relocate the wires, to ensure head room on the boxes, and trust me, this took quite some maneuvering of the hands to make it happen... as you see, it can be done... just not as easy as it looks...

One final note... I've mentioned it in my previous posts, I built these boxes, specifically for 8" shallow mount pioneer subs... There is no guarantee they will fit anything else... It's possible, but I couldn't tell you without trying it myself...
 

ShadowedXistence

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I'll get some blueprints, dimensions, volume, directions, etc. posted in the how to section within the next couple of days, so everyone can use them as desired...
 

Powerslave

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......you have to leave a little room for them to resonate right?

No, not really... Bass that low is unidirectional, meaning, below a certain frequency (150Hz), the human ear cannot tell if it's coming from the left, or right. I am trying to figure out a way to describe it simply, but, no, you do not need any room for it resonate, for a a sub-woofer (woofer? Yes, read on). Have you seen the kind that are behind Plexiglas, or your home theater sub-woofer? Can't see the speaker in a home theater sub, just a port. For subs, all you really need are ports, but the sounds are resonated throughout the room.

In this case, there are no ports, and needs cross-bracing to reduce box resonances. His is no different from other sealed enclosures, but the material used makes a huge difference in sound quality, this can all be looked up.

Think of the unit as a tuning fork (lame as hell terms). You know a tuning fork does not have a speaker, yet you can HEAR sound from it. So, if this UNDER seat enclosure had Mids and Tweeters, they would sound muffled under the seat, because they project sound in a direction, and would be muffled by the seat. This does not happen with frequencies AS low as 20Hz to 150Hz. These low frequencies move AIR, so you can make a magnitude of enclosures that will be fine. This is why sub-woofers can damage your ear, the vibrations and pressure from the moving air. You should always have a window open 1/4", which also increases the sound. If the windows are closed, the inner ear gets all the abuse. You can also hear the difference in bass with the windows open, and close, try it out...

There are actually MATH formulas to it, to tune the speaker and enclosure to get the MAX effect from it. Only MFRs of retail systems actually follow a system. People who build them, very rarely use the math, and still end up with something that is acceptable.

You can ADD a passive-radiator, for a box that has no ports; it is a MOCK speaker, the sound resonates from the material of the passive radiator.

There is also a difference between a Woofer, and SUBwoofer... A woofer is for frequencies from 40Hz up to 1KHz, and this would not work under the seat if you were at 350Hz to 1Khz, it would sound horrible. A sub-woofer is for 20Hz to 150Hz, and can be placed anywhere.
 
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