antifreeze/coolant question

[Eric_Lee]

If youd rather not read all that I wrote below heres the short version of my question.

"So should I flush the heck out of my system and put different coolant in? Or stick with the dexcool antifreeze?"


So I'm pretty much replacing a lot of parts (dealing with engine temperatures) on my jeep liberty limited. Its the 3.7 liter. I came across a post on here that was made awhile ago about using coolant with Dexcool. When I went to Autozone to get the coolant I was told that for my vehicle I'm supposed to use engine coolant with dexcool. No problem, I purchase the concentrate bottle so I can get more coolant for my money mixing exactly 50/50. I also ensure to use distilled water (its only .87 from walmart for a gallon anyways.) But in this thread I saw on this forum they were talking about how dexcool eats away at gaskets and causes a lot of problems with gaskets.

Today I planned on replacing my thermostat and water pump (and I always use Permatex RTV Silicone Gasket sealer on my water pump and thermostat's gaskets) my jeep is about to hit 190,000 miles. Just this past week I had to pay to get my valve cover gasket replaced along with my lower engine mount. I'm no means a mechanic and I dont claim to be car savvy when it comes to fixing them. But I am one of those DIY type of guys and if it seems simple enough I'll do it myself. I have plenty of good friends who help when they can but they have families and such.

My main question is am I hurting my Jeep by using this Dexcool antifreeze? Someone had posted that dexcool coolant eats the engine from the inside out? I find that hard to believe as I flush my coolant every 6 months and living in Florida I have to make sure all parts related to keeping my Jeeps engine cool are in working order. Thus why I'm going to replace the thermostat and water pump. Now normally when I have to add coolant I'll flush the entire system out. I'm not rich but I'm not a penny pincher either. I've never put old coolant back into my jeep. I just replace it with new coolant. Should I be using the coolant that doesnt contain the dex cool? Or should I continue to use the same thing. The cable cover gasket only had me leaking oil. The water pump is whats making me lose coolant. Plus the jeep is driven daily and in Jacksonville Florida the weather changes like most ladies I date attitudes (no offense to the wonderful women who are apart of this forum.)

 

[HomerSaysDoh]

I would drain the system, fill with water and repeat until it drains clear. replace with Zerex G-05 or Chrysler HOAT.

But I'm only a chemist, not a mechanic
Dexcool contains 2-Ethylhexanoic Acid (2-EHA)

HOAT stands for Hybrid OAT. These antifreeze use organic acids but not 2-EHA and usually include silicates to provide protection for aluminium surfaces. HOAT anti-freezes are used by many European car manufacturers, although they are also used by American companies such as Chrysler and Ford. A HOAT coolant will need to be changed every five years or 150,000 miles.

2-EHA can be more aggressive at attacking some gasket materials. To spend only a few dollars more on the proper coolant that will last 5 years, I don't see a compelling reason to use Dexcool.

Zerex G-05 is available at Advance Auto.

 

[JasonJ]

Yes! You are damaging it. But not necessarily the way you describe.

Dexcool is an OAT coolant, organic acid technology... It describes the chemistry involved.

You need to use HOAT. Hybrid organic acid technology. G-05 as you see branded for Ford, is one example.

Never use anything but HOAT coolant!

I'll let you Google the differences and the different discussions all over the internet now that you have those two terms to research.

Flush that crap out and refill with the proper coolant. Then go smack whomever told you to use Dexcool upside the head.

 

[LibertyTC]

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Now would also be a good time to do the hoses while there as well.

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The Mopar Thermostat is the only one I would install...

 

[TimberWolf]

I have never had a problem with aftermarket anything really. What I can tell you however is that you should dig in your manual for your jeep and learn for yourself what engine coolant it takes. Maybe I skipped what year it was above, but your manual will tell you exactly what to put in it. Mine, 2011 Liberty Sport. HOAT, it can be yellow or orange. I couldn't fine the orange so while changing out my pump that just blew, I am going to flush and put in new just cause it's yellow. Mine had orange. Attached excerpt from owners manual and a picture of the yellow HOAT

 

[Ksat]

just reiterating what HomerSaysDoh said. Dexcool can attack gasket materials that aren't compatible with it. GM found this out the hard way when they first used the coolant in their engines and found gaskets were failing at a very high rate. The problem was apparently exacerbated in engines where the coolant level wasn't kept topped off, as air mixing with in caused it to be more acidic.

Since Dexcool is not OEM for the Lib, its gaskets could be susceptible if you use it.

​

 

[u2slow]

I've only used the basic green stuff in the entire 11 years owning it. Same stuff in all my vehicles.

 

[Johnny O]

HOAT and only HOAT. Just like only using NGK V-Power plugs.

Anything else is disaster waiting to happen. Non-HOAT anecdotal statements are bad advice.

 

[u2slow]

The green Prestone i'm using says HOAT compatible, and for use in just about everything.

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[Jeremy-WI]

The green Prestone i'm using says HOAT compatible, and for use in just about everything.

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I think that is what I put in my 2006 after a changed the radiator a couple years ago. I didn't see any strange sludge when I changed the water pump a month or so ago. I figured I better change it before it goes bad and I am close to 200k miles

 

[KJowner]

Definitely only HOAT if you have a CRD, they're a wet liner engine and will wormhole with anything else.

 

[CheddarGau]

The green Prestone i'm using says HOAT compatible, and for use in just about everything.

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HOAT compatible, means it is compatible with the metal composition of the engine, it does not mean it's compatible with other coolants. Mixing different types of coolants is a recipe for sludge to build up in the cooling system. This will result in a plugged heater core, rad and any small spaces in between. Mopar 5 year HOAT is what your vehicle takes.

That said as long as you know for sure different coolants were not mixed, you can use anything that is HOAT. The problem comes when someone else (a new place) works on it, throws in the correct stuff or just a random brand.

 

[Johnny O]

HOAT compatible, means it is compatible with the metal composition of the engine, it does not mean it's compatible with other coolants. Mixing different types of coolants is a recipe for sludge to build up in the cooling system. This will result in a plugged heater core, rad and any small spaces in between. Mopar 5 year HOAT is what your vehicle takes.

That said as long as you know for sure different coolants were not mixed, you can use anything that is HOAT. The problem comes when someone else (a new place) works on it, throws in the correct stuff or just a random brand.

Exactly.

 

[LibertyTC]

Just the words "Prestone" makes me cringe.
Zerex G05 HOAT PLEASE !

 

[CheddarGau]

Just the words "Prestone" makes me cringe.
Zerex G05 HOAT PLEASE !

Not a fan either, but make me money

 

[Ksat]

You're not going to have any problems using ethylene glycol (aka the green stuff) as long as you fully flush the system beforehand. And by a full flush, I mean you drain, refill with distilled, drive the car for a good 15mins or more, drain again, refill with distilled again and repeat the process until what drains out is fully clear with no antifreeze smell or taste whatsoever. After your last drain, you refill with full strength and you're good to go.

The only downside to using regular ethylene glycol is it usually needs to be changed after 2 years. This is because the silicates it uses- while very effective corrosion inhibitors- conk out after that time frame. There is an "extended" life version ethylene glycol sold that claims to last up to 5 years, though I don't know much about how it achieves that (perhaps extra additives). The biggest reason any of these new antifreeze chemistries came on the scene after ethylene glycol was to increase the service change interval.

That all being said, although there seems to be somewhat of a debate on the topic, it's probably safest to assume that there is no "universal" antifreeze that will mix fine with any and all types, regardless of what it says on the bottle. It's no different than "universal" power steering fluids or transmission fluids that are sold out there. You're best to stay clear of them and add only what is in there currently.

 

[Deb'nKJ]

We learned many years ago that "universal" when applied to parts, meant "fits nothing". I suspect the parallel in fluids is "unsuitable for anything".

As for long life antifreeze, it's a complete waste of money in anything more than 10 years old as every year you will need to replace some part of the cooling system after draining (if you haven't lost) at least most of the coolant.

 

[Johnny O]

We learned many years ago that "universal" when applied to parts, meant "fits nothing". I suspect the parallel in fluids is "unsuitable for anything".

As for long life antifreeze, it's a complete waste of money in anything more than 10 years old as every year you will need to replace some part of the cooling system after draining (if you haven't lost) at least most of the coolant.

Yep.

 

[dmike25]

fully flush the system beforehand. And by a full flush, I mean you drain, refill with distilled, drive the car for a good 15mins or more, drain again, refill with distilled again and repeat the process until what drains out is fully clear with no antifreeze smell or taste whatsoever. After your last drain, you refill with full strength and you're good to go.

Does this do the job completely? No special "flush" chemicals or treatments? I have a 2007, 3.7, 73,000 miles. I bought it used in 2010. No telling what previous owners put in (if anything). Radiator was changed by a shop while I was working out of town, no telling what they used. I think I would be happy knowing the system was flushed and the proper coolant is in there.

 

[mrlavalamp]

Does this do the job completely? No special "flush" chemicals or treatments? I have a 2007, 3.7, 73,000 miles. I bought it used in 2010. No telling what previous owners put in (if anything). Radiator was changed by a shop while I was working out of town, no telling what they used. I think I would be happy knowing the system was flushed and the proper coolant is in there.

repeated flushing with plain water and then install the zerex G05.

Im in the "use the OEM spec" camp. You might be able to get away with using whatever "universal", but as a chemical engineer and industrial maintenance planner, I see situations like this backfire on the regular and it usually isn't until months/years later and the cost to correct is never small.

Where I live, getting stranded in the summer with a coolant leak could mean death, so I dont play.