Best oil for 2.5 CRD

[Truck Norris]

Hey guys, just a quick one. Wanted to know which is the best engine oil to use in my 2003 2.5 CRD. Have seen 5w-30 10w-30 and 10w-40 recommended and wondered if there was much difference and what your preferences were? Cheers lads.

 

[warp2diesel]

Pull down the specs for Amsoil 10W-40 AMO and do the best you can to match the specs. Avoid the Tree Hugger Oils that have deleted most if not all the zinc.
Many of the good oils I have used for years have turned to crap with the change in the additives. As an avid conservationist who works for a Water Purification Company, I put the Jerks who **** goats and put our solders in harms way in the same category as Tree Hugger Political Activist and their regulation writing flunky lawyers who could not catch an ambulance if it hauled them into the hospital. Wasting resources like our engines longevity by complying with junk science inspired regulations is criminal and the flunky lawyers should be dressed like a goat and used as bate to catch terrorists.
Good Luck

 

[Truck Norris]

Wow....! That escalated really fast.... Good to get things off you chest sometimes eh... Cheers for the info, will have a dig round and find some info out. Thanks

 

[Lancer]

I use Mobil 1 0-40 Turbo diesel (full synthetic). Bit costly, but is well spec'd.

 

[warp2diesel]

I use Mobil 1 0-40 Turbo diesel (full synthetic). Bit costly, but is well spec'd.

With all due respect to the Chrysler Bean Counters who used ISO 9000-X Certified Beans with serial numbers imprinted onto each bean (next GPS transmitters in each bean so the micro managers can track the beans from the desk top to the jar). :happy175:
The oil that is best for a CRD is not the 0W-40 except for winter in far Northern climates like Siberia, or parts of Canada where it is so cold that the degrees F and C are the same. The Chrysler Bean Counters picked the 0W-40 to try to squeeze out a tiny more fuel economy to satisfy the US EPA tests (read my post above for background info on the US EPA).
As stated in my above rant, make sure the oil you choose is not been transformed into a Tree Hugger Oil, in the US/Canada Mobil 1 0W-40 has been transformed.

If you feel a tremor at Westminster Abby, it is Sir Isac Newton rolling over in his grave due to some bad Engineering or Junk Science.

If you feel a tremor at the Mount Carmel Cemetery near Chicago, IL, it is Al Capone rolling over in his grave due Political Corruption or another stupid Government Regulation.

The debate is which location has more rumbling?

 

[redbink]

What is the difference between oil for a diesel or a gas engine? Is heat an issue, different heat ranges, soot levels? If so how does this affect the selection of an oil designated as any zero weight oil or the average 10W-30? I agree any zero weight oil is best suited as a low climate oil, so is it better to have a like a 10W-30 in hot climates.

 

[warp2diesel]

What is the difference between oil for a diesel or a gas engine? Is heat an issue, different heat ranges, soot levels? If so how does this affect the selection of an oil designated as any zero weight oil or the average 10W-30? I agree any zero weight oil is best suited as a low climate oil, so is it better to have a like a 10W-30 in hot climates.

Additives, some are the same and some are not.
The oil I switched over to Amsoil AMO 10W-40 meets or exceeds the following specs:
API SL, SJ, SH, SG
API CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF, CF-2
ISO-L-EMA • Caterpillar ECF-1
JASO MA (Motorcycle) • MAN 271/3275 • MTU Type 2
Cummins 20071/20072/20076/20077 • VDS-2, VDS
Mack EO-M+ • ACEA A3/B3, E3, E5 • MB 228.3, 229.1
Detroit Diesel 93K214

Just don't assume an oil with only a CG-4 rating is suitable for an engine that calls for CF. My '06 2.8L calls for CF, I won't put in an oil that is not CF rating. A CG-4 rated oil that is not also CF may have additives like zinc taken out to lengthen the life of a catalyst. In my opinion having a catalyst that out lives the engine is stupid, especially if the oil needed to save the catalyst wears out the engine faster. CG-4 oils are for engines with roller tappets and tree Hugger Catalysts, I avoid these oils.
Since the 2.5L has the same bearing clearances, running a CF rated 10W-40 Synthetic oil would be a good idea. Like my 2.8L I would avoid any CG+4 oil that is not also CF rated.

 

[redbink]

For what its worth I was talking to an engineer the other day, we were disscussing viscosity or thickness or pour point, however you want to look at it. Engineers can be very specific if terms are not used right. Point being that at a cold temp oils were poured down a stick, of coarse zero weight oil poured better at a colder temperature. Thought being that it is thinner, now he says what does everyone do when an engine is burning oil? They put heavy oil in to seal larger clearances. What if thinner oil was used instead? His argument; a thin oil would wipe off the cylinder walls better and therefore oil shouldn't be left behind to be burnt up wereas the thick oil would adhear to the metal more and be left behind. Interesting. I will look into these specs more, I think I was nieve to just select an oil by repitable brand and weight. Thanks

 

[redbink]

This is what I found..

CF-4 – Severe Diesel Engine Service – CF-4 is designed to replace the CE engine oil classification. CF-4 designates oils with additive
packages for protecting high speed, low emission, four stroke diesels in heavy duty on-highway applications. Requirements for CF-4 oils
include greater oxidation resistance, high activity detergents and dispersants to prevent sludging and deposits. Oil consumption requirements
have also been stiffened. CF-4 oils supersede CD and CE oils and may be used where these service classifications are recommended.
LE’s 8800 MONOLEC ULTRA Engine Oil and LE’s 8130 MONOLEC ULTRA-BLEND Engine Oil exceed API CF-4 rating.

CF – Indirect Injected Diesel Engine Service – Service typical of indirect injected diesel engines and other diesel engines that use a
broad range of fuel types, including those using fuel with sulfur content above 0.5%. Requirements include control of piston deposits, wear
and bearing corrosion. Engines may be naturally aspirated, turbocharged or supercharged. CF rated oils may be used when API CD oils
are called for. LE’s 8800 MONOLEC ULTRA Engine Oil, LE’s 8130 MONOLEC ULTRA-BLEND and LE’s MONOLEC GFS Engine Oil meet
the CF requirements.

CG-4 – 1994 Diesel Engine Service – CG-4 is intended to address engine wear and deposit issues linked to fuel specifications and
engine designs that are required to accommodate 1994 EPA emissions regulations. CG-4 oils exceed the requirements of the API CF-4
service category and replace CF-4. These oils are particularly suited to on-highway, heavy duty truck applications. When combined with
the appropriate “S” category, they can also be used in gasoline and diesel powered personal vehicles -- i.e., automobiles, light trucks and
vans-when recommended by the vehicle or engine manufacturer. LE’s 8800 MONOLEC ULTRA and LE’s 8130 MONOLEC ULTRA-BLEND
Engines Oils meet CG-4 specifications.

 

[warp2diesel]

Lets say you put in 20W-50 into an engine that calls for 10W-40. After a little use the 20W-50 oil will thin out as it generates heat, from being forced through the engine clearances. You have no advantage using high viscosity oil, unless you are selling a car with a tired engine to a total fool before the low oil pressure light comes on.
Put in an oil too thin like 0W-40 that is only used to get higher efficiency ratings to comply with legislation, you are not doing your engine any favors. I would not use 0W-40 unless I had to put up with -40F/-40C weather. Based upon how my CRD ran with 5W-40 Rotella T-6 synthetic in 90F plus weather, I was not happy. One of my mods is an oil pressure run centrifuge to clean the fine stuff out of my oil. When I clean it out it is packed with soot particles that go past my oil filter. Since I switched to Amsoil 10W-40 AMO, I can hear my centrifuge slow down after I turn off the key. With the Rotella T-6 synthetic, I rarely heard my centrifuge wind down.
When I checked the specs, the Amsoil 10W-40 has a lower pour point than the Rotells T-6 5W-40 synthetic.
If the 10W-40 will work in my CRD based in the Midwest US (Northern Illinois)where it gets down to -20F in the winter, I see no reason why a 10W-40 synthetic with good specs would not work in the UK.
Match the Amsoil 10W-40 AMO specs as close as you can and you will be pleased.

 

[Georg]

Hi guys. Fell upon you researching for new tires. I had thought diesel Cherokees were not available in the US. Whenever I tried crossing anything the only engine available for late model KJ's was the 3.7 gas. The owner's manual does not mention a diesel option.

I use Mobil 1 0-40 Turbo diesel (full synthetic). Bit costly, but is well spec'd.

My next oil. Although, I must tell you that I have it in writing from their technical dept. that there is "no compelling reason" to choose the TD over the "regular" Mobil 1 New Life 0W-40.

I know I am new here, but still:

...The oil that is best for a CRD is not the 0W-40 except for winter in far Northern climates like Siberia, or parts of Canada where it is so cold that the degrees F and C are the same. The Chrysler Bean Counters picked the 0W-40 to try to squeeze out a tiny more fuel economy to satisfy the US EPA tests (read my post above for background info on the US EPA).
...
As stated in my above rant, make sure the oil you choose is not been transformed into a Tree Hugger Oil, in the US/Canada Mobil 1 0W-40 has been transformed...

The 0W part may be absolutely necessary in Siberia (never been there, but I'll take your word for it :icon_lol, because your 10W will be like vaseline in the morning.
However, bean counters' concern with EPA tests would have nothing to do with the -40 part. Let me explain how things work. The -40 (or -20 or -60) part represents the viscosity at operating temperature (100°C). Operating temperature (unless you have a cooling system malfunction) is the same whether you are in Siberia or in Marathon, FL.
So, we have these issues:
- at operating tempearatures, viscosity-wise, a -40 is a -40 is a -40 (within a certain -tight- range)
- in the cool of the morning, when you start your engine, the 0W is more tree-hugging (if by that you mean less viscous, thinner), so it can be pumped throughout the engine's maze of lubrication channelling faster than your 10W, thus lubricating it faster (until it reaches operating temprature, by which time the xW- number does not apply and a -40 is a -40 is a -40).
- Jeep's bean counters might be ********, but they can at least count their beans (look at the the run around they have been giving us with windows issues). In fact, if the bean counters were only counting NOx and CO2 beans, they would have recommended you a 0W-30 oil (like they do for the gas engines). A 0W-30 oil is less viscous (thinner) at operating temperatures than a 0W-40 (it's the -xx number that counts), hence reduces fuel consumption.

Additives, some are the same and some are not.
The oil I switched over to Amsoil AMO 10W-40 meets or exceeds the following specs:
API SL, SJ, SH, SG
API CI-4 Plus, CH-4, CF, CF-2
ISO-L-EMA • Caterpillar ECF-1
JASO MA (Motorcycle) • MAN 271/3275 • MTU Type 2
Cummins 20071/20072/20076/20077 • VDS-2, VDS
Mack EO-M+ • ACEA A3/B3, E3, E5 • MB 228.3, 229.1
Detroit Diesel 93K214

Just don't assume an oil with only a CG-4 rating is suitable for an engine that calls for CF. My '06 2.8L calls for CF, I won't put in an oil that is not CF rating. A CG-4 rated oil that is not also CF may have additives like zinc taken out to lengthen the life of a catalyst. In my opinion having a catalyst that out lives the engine is stupid, especially if the oil needed to save the catalyst wears out the engine faster. CG-4 oils are for engines with roller tappets and tree Hugger Catalysts, I avoid these oils.
Since the 2.5L has the same bearing clearances, running a CF rated 10W-40 Synthetic oil would be a good idea. Like my 2.8L I would avoid any CG+4 oil that is not also CF rated.

For the most part, and with respect to their snake-oil oils, Amsoil claims their products meet or exceed the so and so specs. They are not certified for that, Amsoil's excuse being that it is too expensive and that more recent specs require a reduction in ZDP (zinc dithiophosphate). Being the sceptics and cynics we -often justifiably- are, shouldn't we raise an eyebrow at the fact that all this relies on an Amsoil ordered and paid for "independent" test of oils (in fact, racing motorcycle oils)? Shouldn't we raise the other eyebrow seeing that Amsoil themsleves, faced with the higher ZDP content in Redline's oil in that test, stated that ZDP content is not that critical?

Lets say you put in 20W-50 into an engine that calls for 10W-40. After a little use the 20W-50 oil will thin out as it generates heat, from being forced through the engine clearances.

... and the 10W-40 will thin out to a -30, then a -20...
All oils, irrespective of initial viscosity thin out, and their resistance to that is a criterion of quality.

...Based upon how my CRD ran with 5W-40 Rotella T-6 synthetic in 90F plus weather, I was not happy. One of my mods is an oil pressure run centrifuge to clean the fine stuff out of my oil. When I clean it out it is packed with soot particles that go past my oil filter. Since I switched to Amsoil 10W-40 AMO, I can hear my centrifuge slow down after I turn off the key. With the Rotella T-6 synthetic, I rarely heard my centrifuge wind down.
When I checked the specs, the Amsoil 10W-40 has a lower pour point than the Rotells T-6 5W-40 synthetic.
If the 10W-40 will work in my CRD based in the Midwest US (Northern Illinois)where it gets down to -20F in the winter, I see no reason why a 10W-40 synthetic with good specs would not work in the UK.
Match the Amsoil 10W-40 AMO specs as close as you can and you will be pleased.

Rotella is 18-wheeler oil... It's not the oil's fault if it were used in a modern common-rail small diesel.

Now, don't get me wrong. I am not saying Amsoil is bad. It is just that being sceptic, I try to read critically between the lines and not be easily impressed by vague, substantially unsubstantiated claims, that are often mated to apparently behind the scenes secrets.

 

[warp2diesel]

Hi guys. Fell upon you researching for new tires. I had thought diesel Cherokees were not available in the US. Whenever I tried crossing anything the only engine available for late model KJ's was the 3.7 gas. The owner's manual does not mention a diesel option.



My next oil. Although, I must tell you that I have it in writing from their technical dept. that there is "no compelling reason" to choose the TD over the "regular" Mobil 1 New Life 0W-40.

I know I am new here, but still:



The 0W part may be absolutely necessary in Siberia (never been there, but I'll take your word for it :icon_lol, because your 10W will be like vaseline in the morning.
However, bean counters' concern with EPA tests would have nothing to do with the -40 part. Let me explain how things work. The -40 (or -20 or -60) part represents the viscosity at operating temperature (100°C). Operating temperature (unless you have a cooling system malfunction) is the same whether you are in Siberia or in Marathon, FL.
So, we have these issues:
- at operating tempearatures, viscosity-wise, a -40 is a -40 is a -40 (within a certain -tight- range)
- in the cool of the morning, when you start your engine, the 0W is more tree-hugging (if by that you mean less viscous, thinner), so it can be pumped throughout the engine's maze of lubrication channelling faster than your 10W, thus lubricating it faster (until it reaches operating temprature, by which time the xW- number does not apply and a -40 is a -40 is a -40).
- Jeep's bean counters might be ********, but they can at least count their beans (look at the the run around they have been giving us with windows issues). In fact, if the bean counters were only counting NOx and CO2 beans, they would have recommended you a 0W-30 oil (like they do for the gas engines). A 0W-30 oil is less viscous (thinner) at operating temperatures than a 0W-40 (it's the -xx number that counts), hence reduces fuel consumption.



For the most part, and with respect to their snake-oil oils, Amsoil claims their products meet or exceed the so and so specs. They are not certified for that, Amsoil's excuse being that it is too expensive and that more recent specs require a reduction in ZDP (zinc dithiophosphate). Being the sceptics and cynics we -often justifiably- are, shouldn't we raise an eyebrow at the fact that all this relies on an Amsoil ordered and paid for "independent" test of oils (in fact, racing motorcycle oils)? Shouldn't we raise the other eyebrow seeing that Amsoil themsleves, faced with the higher ZDP content in Redline's oil in that test, stated that ZDP content is not that critical?



... and the 10W-40 will thin out to a -30, then a -20...
All oils, irrespective of initial viscosity thin out, and their resistance to that is a criterion of quality.



Rotella is 18-wheeler oil... It's not the oil's fault if it were used in a modern common-rail small diesel.

Now, don't get me wrong. I am not saying Amsoil is bad. It is just that being sceptic, I try to read critically between the lines and not be easily impressed by vague, substantially unsubstantiated claims, that are often mated to apparently behind the scenes secrets.

With all due respect, you like to argument, but parts of your argument don't hold water. Rotella T-6 synthetic is suitable for the 2.8L CRD, it has the specs. Try not to confuse anyone with Rotella T which is not synthetic. I just like the results I got from Amsoil AMO 10W-40 better like a quieter engine. Since Amsoil is not available in other parts of the world like it is in the US and Canada, matching up the specs as close as you can will give you a better oil.
Commonly used tried and true additives like Amsoil and others use are not Snake-Oil. Save the Snake Oil description for chlorine based dump in type crap that tests great in the lab but trashes the engine.
0W-40 is 0W oil with Viscosity Index Improver added, 5W-40 oil is 5W oil with Viscosity Index improver added and so on. When the Viscosity Index improver breaks down or gets tired, your XW-40 gets closer to the X than the 40. For those who are old enough to remember using Rotary Dial Telephones, STP is Viscosity Index Improver in a Can that was used to quiet engines with worn out bearings that had excessive clearances. Many manufacturers for many years would not approve multi weight oils for use in their engines due to the breakdown of the Viscosity Index improvers.
The bearing clearances and surface polish of the bearings and gears are what determine the correct viscosity of oil. The original 2.5IDI engine has the same bearing sizes and clearances as the 2.5L & 2.8L CRD engines. Many of us who have been around the block more than a few times find it puzzling that the same lower end that used 15W-40 for years (like Rotella T) is now being sold to use 0W-40 instead. True synthetics are much better, but I like to let Sir Isac Newton rest in peace.
Those who have used the 0W-40 in the hot Southwestern US deserts initially, have switched to 5W-40 or 10W-40 synthetic oils. It is not worth trashing an engine to please some text book or Bean Counters Cheat Sheet.
When I present my case, I go beyond the Engineering Text Book hype I have read, studied and been tested on many times, much of which is often based upon assumptions. If you want an honest factual assessment of what is going on, you need to track what is going on in the field instead of Academia or the Corporate Offices. Kinda reminds me of when Chuck Yeager broke the sound barrier, his commanding officer threw the German book on Aeronautical Engineering into the trash.
Lets be honest, a Fiat/Chrysler Bean Counter Engineer does not give a rats butt about how a KJ CRD way out of Warranty runs or holds up. In fact having it in the scrap yard is what helps put food on the table for him/her. Kissing up to the EPA Lawyer who knows less about the environment than the Ducks in a pond, helps keep the company out of court, that is why they mouth the EPA Politically Correct Bravo Sierra.

 

[Georg]

With all due respect, you like to argument,

I don't particularly like to argue, at least no more than the next guy here (enjoying a discussion about things that interest us is a prerequisite to join a forum).

but parts of your argument don't hold water

That is the point. Oil and water don't mix. :icon_lol:

Rotella T-6 synthetic is suitable for the 2.8L CRD, it has the specs. Try not to confuse anyone with Rotella T which is not synthetic.

I am confusing nothing. Did I say anywhere Rotella T6 is not synthetic (although I suspect they are taking advantage of later regulations to label as synthetics excessively manipulated mineral oils)? I just said it is 18-wheeler oil, which it is (heavy equipment oil, CJ-4 is heavy duty spec). Read it and weep! :smokin:

Shell Rotella

I just like the results I got from Amsoil AMO 10W-40 better like a quieter engine.

Any -40 oil would have given you a quieter engine than a -20 or -30 oil. If you had tried a -60 oil you might have even mistaken it for a Rolls (of yore).

Since Amsoil is not available in other parts of the world like it is in the US and Canada, matching up the specs as close as you can will give you a better oil.

Where do you get your facts? Amsoil is available internationally. There are no specs with Amsoil. They are not telling you it meets or exceeds anything. They are just telling you to use it where so and so spec is required. That is a recommendation from the manufacturer/seller, not a specification or a promise that it fulfils the spec.

Commonly used tried and true additives like Amsoil and others use are not Snake-Oil.

So Amsoil and others use "commonly used and true additives" and mainstream manufacturers, like Mobil, use what?

0W-40 is 0W oil with Viscosity Index Improver added, 5W-40 oil is 5W oil with Viscosity Index improver added and so on. When the Viscosity Index improver breaks down or gets tired, your XW-40 gets closer to the X than the 40.

That’s part of the reason you cannot use the same oil forever, you know…

Anyway, it is you who is telling them to use 10W-40 oil rather than the manufacturer-recommended 10W-30 (gas) or 0W-40 (dsl)! Now, who enjoys arguing? You are arguing with yourself!

Only way out: you need to recommend a straight 30 or 40!

For those who are old enough to remember using Rotary Dial Telephones, STP is Viscosity Index Improver in a Can that was used to quiet engines with worn out bearings that had excessive clearances. Many manufacturers for many years would not approve multi weight oils for use in their engines due to the breakdown of the Viscosity Index improvers.

Some still don't...

The bearing clearances and surface polish of the bearings and gears are what determine the correct viscosity of oil. The original 2.5IDI engine has the same bearing sizes and clearances as the 2.5L & 2.8L CRD engines. Many of us who have been around the block more than a few times find it puzzling that the same lower end that used 15W-40 for years (like Rotella T) is now being sold to use 0W-40 instead. True synthetics are much better, but I like to let Sir Isac Newton rest in peace.

If you overdo it spinning around the block you get dizzy you know... (no offence, just kidding).

What does Newton have to do with anything? You are the only one bringing him into this. You do realize that weight does not really refer to weight, but rather viscosity?

OK, they could manufacture a stable 15W-40 oil and now they can manufacture a stable 0W-40 oil. So?

What's with you and Rotella? Did you invent the blend or sthng? It's for bulldozers!

I am not certain how else I can explain this: the xW- represents viscosity at 40°C (FL summer ambient). It only applies to cold starting an engine. Halfway through warm-up you are past that. Then it is the -30, -40 etc. that applies. Viscosity-wise all -40s are more or less the same (or they are not -40s)._

Those who have used the 0W-40 in the hot Southwestern US deserts initially, have switched to 5W-40 or 10W-40 synthetic oils. It is not worth trashing an engine to please some text book or Bean Counters Cheat Sheet.

You are using an invalid argument about sthng that has nothing to do with what you are claiming. OK, here it goes again. The xW- has nothing to do with emissions, fuel consumption ratings etc. It is the ambient temperature (cold starting) viscosity._

When I present my case, I go beyond the Engineering Text Book hype I have read, studied and been tested on many times, much of which is often based upon assumptions.

You do realize you are photographing Amsoil here, right?

If you want an honest factual assessment of what is going on, you need to track what is going on in the field instead of Academia or the Corporate Offices.

Taking this too far, like you seem to, it kinda brings us back/down to a Joe-The-Mechanic era. If you would prefer the screwdriver-Joe messing with your car, be my guest. When cars were like that, I was doing my own work, myself. Yeah, I am old enough to have been several times around the block as well. It's just that I did it slowly and read the writings on the wall while at it. Modern cars, for better or worse, are way past Screwdriver-Joe.

Kinda reminds me of when Chuck Yeager broke the sound barrier, his commanding officer threw the German book on Aeronautical Engineering into the trash.

Ahh, old Chuck... You don't seriously believe Amsoil is Chuck in the making, now, do you?

Lets be honest, a Fiat/Chrysler Bean Counter Engineer does not give a rats butt about how a KJ CRD way out of Warranty runs or holds up. In fact having it in the scrap yard is what helps put food on the table for him/her. Kissing up to the EPA Lawyer who knows less about the environment than the Ducks in a pond, helps keep the company out of court, that is why they mouth the EPA Politically Correct Bravo Sierra.

Try to understand this: except for the first minute after a cold start (like in the morning), which anyway does not count anywhere, there is no difference in any EPA measurement between the 0W-40 and the Amsoil 10W-40.

 

[warp2diesel]

Zinc dithiophosphate is one of the oil additives our CRD engines oil need to live a long life. Many of the newer oils being developed for gasoline engines and being passed of as diesel oils are lacking.
May both the Tree Huggers who wants the catalyst to outlast the engine and academic debater trolls choke on some Zinc dithiophosphate. I read the label and specs to make sure my oil has Zinc dithiophosphate.

Zinc dithiophosphate
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates (often referred to as ZDDP)
are a family of coordination compounds invented by
Castrol that feature zinc bound to the anion of
dithiophosphoric acid. These uncharged compounds are not
salts. They are soluble in nonpolar solvents, and the longer
chain derivatives easily dissolve in mineral and synthetic
oils used as lubricants. They come under CAS number
[68649-42-3 (http://www.emolecules.com/cgi-bin
/search?t=ss&q=68649-42-3&c=1&v=) ]. In aftermarket oil
additives, the percentage of ZDDP ranges approximately between 2-15%.[1]
The alkyl groups can be branched and linear alkanes between 1-14 carbons length, 2-butyl, pentyl,
hexyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, heptyl, octyl, isooctyl (2-ethylhexyl), 6-methylheptyl, 1-methylpropyl,
dodecylphenyl, and others. A mix of zinc dialkyl(C3-C6)dithiophosphates come under CAS
number [84605-29-8 (http://www.emolecules.com/cgi-bin/search?t=ss&q=84605-29-8&c=1&v=)
]. List of other examples with their CAS numbers is here (http://apps.kemi.se/flodessok/floden
/kemamne_eng/zinkdialkyl_eng.htm) .
Contents
1 Coordination chemistry
2 Applications
3 Naming
4 References
5 External links
Coordination chemistry
These species are produced in two steps. First phosphorus pentasulfide is treated with suitable
alcohols to give the dithiophosphoric acid. A wide variety of alcohols can be employed, which
allows the lipophilicity of the final zinc product to be fine-tuned. The resulting dithiophosphate is
then neutralized by adding zinc oxide:
2 (RO)2PS2H + ZnO C Zn[(S2P(OR)2]2 + H2O
In Zn[(S2P(OR)2]2, the zinc is tetrahedral. This monomeric compound also exists in equilibrium
with dimers and oligomers caused by opening of the four-membered ZnS2P ring. Partial hydrolysis
Zinc dithiophosphate - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_dithiophosphate
1 of 3 8/29/2011 6:21 PM
gives the cluster Zn4O[(S2P(OR)2]6, which adopts the structure seen for basic zinc acetate.
Zinc diethyldithiophosphate, Zn[(S2P(OEt)2]2, is a polymeric solid, consisting of infinite linear
chains.[2]
Applications
The main use of ZDDP is in anti-wear additives to lubricants such as greases, gear oils, and motor
oils, which often contain less than 1% of this additive. It has been reported that zinc and
phosphorus emissions may damage catalytic converters and standard formulations of lubricating
oils for gasoline engines now have reduced amounts of the additive, though diesel engine oils
remain at higher levels.[3]. Crankcase oils with reduced ZPPD have been cited as causing damage
to, or failure of, classic/collector car flat tappet camshafts and lifters which undergo very high
boundary layer pressures and/or shear forces at their contact faces, and in other regions such as
big-end/main bearings, and piston rings and pins. Roller camshafts are more commonly used to
reduce camshaft lobe friction in modern engines. Some racing oils such as Valvoline ZR-1, are
available in the retail market with the necessary amount of ZDDP for engines using increased valve
spring pressures. See "external links" in this article. The same ZDDP compounds serve also as
corrosion inhibitors and antioxidants.
Naming
These compounds are widely used and correspondingly have numerous names, including ZDDP,
ZnDTP, and ZDP.
References
^ Allyson M. Barnes, Keith D. Bartle and Vincent R. A. Thibo “A review of zinc dialkyldithiophosphates
(ZDDPS): characterisation and role in the lubricating oil” Tribology International 2001, Pages 389-395.
doi:10.1016/S0301-679X(01)00028-7 (http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0301-679X(01)00028-7) .
1.
^ T. Ito, T. Igarashi, H. Hagihara (1969). "The crystal structure of metal diethyldithiophosphates. I. Zinc
diethyldithiophosphate". Acta Cryst. B25: 2303–2309. doi:10.1107/S0567740869005619
(http://dx.doi.org/10.1107/S0567740869005619) .
2.
^ "ZDDP Engine Oil - The Zinc Factor" (http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles
/mump_0907_zddp_zinc_additive_engine_oil/index.html) . Mustang Monthly.
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_0907_zddp_zinc_additive_engine_oil/index.html.

 

[r0bert38]

I'm using Valvoline Maxlife 5w40 (5w40 is in manual recommended too) for five years - very good oil for cars above 100 000km especially for wintertime - has very good poor point (ap.-38C)

 

[Rickshaw]

Been using Amsoil 15w-40 in all my diesels for years. Full synthetic.

 

[azmotoman]

After rating oils and working on BMW's for years, here's some 'food for thought' :

http://azmotoman.com/pdfs/oilFAQ.pdf

 

[GeeTee]

Guys - been having a similar discussion here in South Africa on one of our local forums - another question to ask and, perhaps a proverbial spanner in the works but, Mineral or Fully Synthetic oils?

 

[CRD Joe]

I use Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil. I also use Amoil EAA filters. Eaa034 oil, EAA201 air. I think this stuff is the best there is. I also use one bottle of Lubegard per oil change.

International Lubricants Inc. (ILI) - Makers of LUBEGARD

 

[MM53]

Mobil 1 5/40 turbo diesel