Blower motor / resistor

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rigid

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The blower does not operate on any of the four speeds. I replaced the resistor with a Durolast part from autozone a couple years ago. It still looks brand new. Is there a way to test it?
I pulled the blower and it has plenty of power on 12v. I also checked and swapped relays under the hood. Both the black one and the green 40 amp. Also the 15 amp inside fuse is good. Is there an a way to test it or am I missing something else?
Thank you
 

DadOSix

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Hmm. Next move, i think, is to check and see if you are getting power into the resistor pack.

test light or meter time.

you already proved the motor is good.

section 8 in the shop manual will show the pin out.

there was also a heavy duty replacement listed on here somewhere.

my money is on the resistor pak again/
 

DadOSix

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Thread 'Blower Motor Resistor Upgrade For KJ.'
https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/blower-motor-resistor-upgrade-for-kj.65152/

and

KJ CONTROLS 24 - 39
3. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between all of the blower motor resistor terminals. In each case there should be continuity. If OK, repair the wire harness circuits between the blower motor speed control and the blower motor resistor or blower motor as required. If not OK, replace the faulty blower motor resistor

-i thought there would be something special about certain resistances, but no.
they say continuity, so we are just looking to make sure there is not an ‘open’ circuit on the pak.

mine usually fail to high only, but it could be any portion blo wn

good hunting!
 
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DadOSix

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Durolast = No last
Ah you beat me to it!

so - BTW Rigid, we are pretty much OEM here when it comes to electrical things.

Plugs, sensors, in this case - resistor paks.

These jeeps are squirrelly on the electrical side. We have much better results staying Mopar on these things.

You gotta do what you gotta do to get it running, but my latest adventure with a Wheel Speed sensor cable was same as always. AAP not in spec. Mopar, right on the money.
 

Steven Renich

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Here are two pages from the manual. (BTW - You can find a link to download it on these forums).

You can pull the resistor pack and test just about everything in the blower motor circuit from there.

Check resistances (not just continuity) across each resistor and jumper: 1-2 (high), 1-3 (first resistor), 3-4, 4-5. This should clearly tell you if the resistor pack is bad.

Note that the power goes through the relay, then the motor, then the resistor pack, then to ground in the A/C Heater Controls.

If the resistor pack is good, I would then diagnose the high circuit. To do this, leave the resistor pack out, key in and ground pin 1. The blower will come on full if and only if the following are good: Fuse 24, Fuse 1, relay, blower motor and associated wiring.
 

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rigid

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Now I have a bigger problem. The parts guy told me to let him warranty the resistor without testing. It was 2yrs old . Put the new one in tonight and no change. Blower does not come on. Had other things going on tonight so I didn't have any time to go much further. I did probe the back of each terminal on the resistor with the engine running and turning the **** through all for speeds. No light on any terminal. Looks like I have my hands full. I need to read back through the advice above and hope I find something.
Thank you
 

Liberty For All

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The blower does not operate on any of the four speeds. I replaced the resistor with a Durolast part from autozone a couple years ago. It still looks brand new. Is there a way to test it?
I pulled the blower and it has plenty of power on 12v. I also checked and swapped relays under the hood. Both the black one and the green 40 amp. Also the 15 amp inside fuse is good. Is there an a way to test it or am I missing something else?
Thank you
Replace the resistor card with one from a Dodge Sebring 1996 year I recall. It is green ceramic and plugs in like the OE. I did this to my 2005 years ago and have not had problems since. It is either 1993 or 1996 year. Compare how it looks at a parts store with your OE part.
 
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