boomerang replacement

[Snail Farmer]

With those RE style arms you'll still be running into the same thing that Kj is with not having enough flex and freedom of movement (pretty sure you would, might be wrong on that one) and I think that mount is for a lower setup or at least that's what the description hinted at.

Yeah like I said, not necessarily those exact arms, but that style. It has a regular bushing on one end, and the flexible type on the other end. It will have more travel than just a bushing.

 

[TheBlueKJ]

Yeah like I said, not necessarily those exact arms, but that style. It has a regular bushing on one end, and the flexible type on the other end. It will have more travel than just a bushing.

Yea I saw the heim joint at the one end those things are pretty loud since there's no bushing to insulate it. I'm thinking johnny joints on both ends would be best imo


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[Snail Farmer]

Yea I saw the heim joint at the one end those things are pretty loud since there's no bushing to insulate it. I'm thinking johnny joints on both ends would be best imo


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I'm not sure to be honest because I've never used them before, but I took this off their website:

Rubicon Express Super-Flex control arms allow extra flex for off-road performance, while maintaining on-road handling and durability. These control arms feature a rebuildable spherical bearing assembly with polymer races that encapsulate a hard plated steel bearing. A threadable steel insert allows for adjustable preload and easy maintenance. Rubicon Express Super-Flex control arms are greasable and extremely quiet due to their non-metallic races.

 

[tjkj2002]

I'm not sure to be honest because I've never used them before, but I took this off their website:

Rubicon Express Super-Flex control arms allow extra flex for off-road performance, while maintaining on-road handling and durability. These control arms feature a rebuildable spherical bearing assembly with polymer races that encapsulate a hard plated steel bearing. A threadable steel insert allows for adjustable preload and easy maintenance. Rubicon Express Super-Flex control arms are greasable and extremely quiet due to their non-metallic races.

I have both RE's super flex joints(control arms) and Curries Johnny Joints(trackbars) and both perform great.Both are rebuildable.

 

[Snail Farmer]

I have both RE's super flex joints(control arms) and Curries Johnny Joints(trackbars) and both perform great.Both are rebuildable.

Awesome thanks for clearing that up.

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[TheBlueKJ]

I have both RE's super flex joints(control arms) and Curries Johnny Joints(trackbars) and both perform great.Both are rebuildable.

I guess at that point it's all about preference. Does either cost more than the other or are they the same price?


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[tjkj2002]

I guess at that point it's all about preference. Does either cost more than the other or are they the same price?


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Many company's make and sell super flex joints that are all pretty much the same as RE's and all are about the same price just for the "builder" joints,about $50 or so.Johnny Joints,"builder" joints or ones with a threaded rod attached(many sizes available) are all about the same cost as the super flex joints.

 

[Snail Farmer]

I figured out how I'm going to mount the front of the arms. I'm going to cut short sections of quarter inch thick rectangular steel tubing. This will be cheap and strong, as well as eliminate the need to measure any angles. I'm going to press fit a sleeve into it for the vertical mounting hole that will mount to the stock location. That will eliminate any lateral play and should evenly distribute the load over the whole bolt. It will look something like this:

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[kj2002vzla]

I figured out how I'm going to mount the front of the arms. I'm going to cut short sections of quarter inch thick rectangular steel tubing. This will be cheap and strong, as well as eliminate the need to measure any angles. I'm going to press fit a sleeve into it for the vertical mounting hole that will mount to the stock location. That will eliminate any lateral play and should evenly distribute the load over the whole bolt. It will look something like this:

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thats the same way mine´s mounted, thats the best way i think, im still waiting to my country political situation stabilize and then ill order the uniballs the guys told me to buy i think with that and with long arms the kj is going to flex like a monster

PS: make sure you weld the yellow thing (whatever u use to that) it sounds when moving, i welded and problem solved

 

[profdlp]

... im still waiting to my country political situation stabilize and then ill order the uniballs...

Off topic, I know, but I hope you are safe and that your countries troubles are over soon. I'm not trying to make a political statement, just a humanitarian one.

 

[kj2002vzla]

Off topic, I know, but I hope you are safe and that your countries troubles are over soon. I'm not trying to make a political statement, just a humanitarian one.

I really appreciate it brother, this thing went out of hands, national guards killing people everywhere, burning civilian cars parked on streets etc! this is awful, thanks again for worrying [end of political talk] lol

 

[the_dealer]

I have both RE's super flex joints(control arms) and Curries Johnny Joints(trackbars) and both perform great.Both are rebuildable.

I couldn't stand my RE arms. The only reason I bought them was they were one of the few adjustable arms I could get at cost from work. I had them for less then a year and had to take the joints apart and clean/adjust them every couple of months. I'm really liking the duroflex joints from MC.

The RE/Rough Country/etc are adjustable collar type that constantly require adjusting. This is due to the uhmw type race the ball rides in. It's a wear item, and the main purpose the grease serves is for noise, as the uhmw material is "self lubricating". The tolerances are so close the grease doesn't get dispersed, let alone dispersed evenly. Also the quality of materials used makes the quality of a joint. When I ran the RE arms, I found that swapping the zerk for a plug and using 3 in oil worked alot better. The grease just attracts too much dirt and ends up marring the ball and race, accelerating wear. You only get about 5 adjustments before having to replace the race. Here is a RE joint I took apart that I ran for less then 6 months, with no offroading. It was greased a week before and wasn't even driven.

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You can see what little grease there is, and the damage to the ball.

The RE'S performed great offroad, but on a rig that serves as a dd or sees alot of road miles, they don't do so well. I will say alot of the complaints(sloppy/noise) you see from these type joints are from user neglect, and not adjusting them. Imo, the df, jj, ballistic, and even the new RK joints would be a better way to go. I'm working on fabbing a rear upper from 1.25" .250 wall dom, with metalcloak duroflex on the frame end, and a jj on the axle end. Imo that would be a pretty good setup

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[Snail Farmer]

I'm doing the same.. I've already sourced the .250 walled dom and I'm going to use Johnny joints on the axle ends. I haven't settled on what to use on the frame end yet so thanks for the other suggestions.

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[the_dealer]

The duroflex are pretty sweet, and need very little maintenance, and give you the smooth ride of a bushing, but the flex and durability of a flex joint. There's more movement in them as well. Seriously the best thing since sliced bread.


http://www.metalcloak.com/2-D-x-2-L-Duroflex-Bushing-p/ss-1032.htm

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[tjkj2002]

I couldn't stand my RE arms. The only reason I bought them was they were one of the few adjustable arms I could get at cost from work. I had them for less then a year and had to take the joints apart and clean/adjust them every couple of months. I'm really liking the duroflex joints from MC.

The RE/Rough Country/etc are adjustable collar type that constantly require adjusting. This is due to the uhmw type race the ball rides in. It's a wear item, and the main purpose the grease serves is for noise, as the uhmw material is "self lubricating". The tolerances are so close the grease doesn't get dispersed, let alone dispersed evenly. Also the quality of materials used makes the quality of a joint. When I ran the RE arms, I found that swapping the zerk for a plug and using 3 in oil worked alot better. The grease just attracts too much dirt and ends up marring the ball and race, accelerating wear. You only get about 5 adjustments before having to replace the race. Here is a RE joint I took apart that I ran for less then 6 months, with no offroading. It was greased a week before and wasn't even driven.

You must be registered for see images attach

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You can see what little grease there is, and the damage to the ball.

The RE'S performed great offroad, but on a rig that serves as a dd or sees alot of road miles, they don't do so well. I will say alot of the complaints(sloppy/noise) you see from these type joints are from user neglect, and not adjusting them. Imo, the df, jj, ballistic, and even the new RK joints would be a better way to go. I'm working on fabbing a rear upper from 1.25" .250 wall dom, with metalcloak duroflex on the frame end, and a jj on the axle end. Imo that would be a pretty good setup

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While some may have issues my RE flex joints have been great after 4 years.I did take them apart to clean and adjust about 2 years ago and they were still tight and no signs of wear so I left them alone.Still tight as of 4 weeks ago when I checked again.Results will vary I guess but I keep my KJ very clean so no change for the dirt to wear my joints.


No if your talking about RE's hour glass bushings(before buyout) that is another story but Daystar poly bushings fixed that problem 2 years ago,they still brand new 2 years later and no signs of any cracking.

 

[offroad cowboy]

Is there a bolt in upgrade for the bommerang?

sent by telegraph from my k30

 

[Snail Farmer]

No only one that you weld onto the axle.. I'm machining my own bolt on bracket though.

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[offroad cowboy]

No only one that you weld onto the axle.. I'm machining my own bolt on bracket though.

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Darn i dont want. To put the libby down for that long its my dd gas saver and the bushings are shot

Aprox how long till you are done if its soon you have your first ginnea pig

sent by telegraph from my k30

 

[Snail Farmer]

Aprox how long till you are done if its soon you have your first ginnea pig

I just saw your edit. It's probably going to be another month if not longer before I'm completely done. I'm very meticulous and prefer not to rush things. I also have to find the time to use the machines between production runs which normally means only doing a little bit at a time. I generally set up my fixturing and tooling when the machines are running and then machine things one step at a time. It's not a very good way to do things but that's what I have to do. And we're really not supposed to use the machines for personal use but I'm the only real machinist on my shift, so they grant me a little more leeway because I do all the custom machining that's needed to keep the place running. Maybe I'll talk to the big wigs and see about setting something up with them to sell them but I wouldn't hold my breath. I'll definitely post when I'm done though and maybe by then I'll have figured a way to streamline things for others in the future.

 

[offroad cowboy]

I just saw your edit. It's probably going to be another month if not longer before I'm completely done. I'm very meticulous and prefer not to rush things. I also have to find the time to use the machines between production runs which normally means only doing a little bit at a time. I generally set up my fixturing and tooling when the machines are running and then machine things one step at a time. It's not a very good way to do things but that's what I have to do. And we're really not supposed to use the machines for personal use but I'm the only real machinist on my shift, so they grant me a little more leeway because I do all the custom machining that's needed to keep the place running. Maybe I'll talk to the big wigs and see about setting something up with them to sell them but I wouldn't hold my breath. I'll definitely post when I'm done though and maybe by then I'll have figured a way to streamline things for others in the future.

Ok well if you do get it done in the next couple of months plz let me know cause my bushings are bad and im wanting to change it soon and id much rather not waste 250bucks

sent by telegraph from my k30