brakes

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

GKreamer

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Bumpass, VA
I know the Mopar pads and such are $$$$!, but you have to admit that they last! I have 96,500 miles on our 2005 Libby Sport 4x4 and need to finally replace front brakes! I even went to a Midas last year with 75,000+ miles because the inspection guy at the local gas station said the brakes were bad and was told they were fine.

Nearly 100K on original pads and rotors- not too shabby!

Guess I'll look at NAPA...
 

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,450
Reaction score
3,650
Location
Southeastern Ohio
I replaced my fronts at 103,000 just because I had it tore apart anyways and had new front pads etc in stock, the rears are still the originals with 112,000 on them, that includes at least 20,000/22,000 with loaded trailers.
 

GKreamer

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Bumpass, VA
Did you replace your rotors? There's no vibration in the front brakes, just a faint squeal when first applying the brakes. Also the pedal is hard- no mush or anything, but also no "give" like in my other vehicle, maybe because of no ABS? Anyways, the Libby will stop, just takes more pedal pressure.

Also, what brand pad did you use?

Thanks
 

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
22,450
Reaction score
3,650
Location
Southeastern Ohio
My rotors are still stock, did a run out on them and they were fine, so just threw a set of pads on after just smoothing ( resurfacing ) them some. NOW if I was still in the brake business;) I would say replace pads and rotors both with NAPA quality parts.
OH and I use only NAPA for brakes and suspension parts if I can.
 

GKreamer

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 8, 2006
Messages
31
Reaction score
0
Location
Bumpass, VA
My rotors are still stock, did a run out on them and they were fine, so just threw a set of pads on after just smoothing ( resurfacing ) them some. NOW if I was still in the brake business;) I would say replace pads and rotors both with NAPA quality parts.
OH and I use only NAPA for brakes and suspension parts if I can.

How did you smooth them out? I bought CarQuest Blue Ceramic pads. There is no discernable pulsating from the front brakes- I think these rotors are tough as nails! This is the first vehicle that my wife has driven that did not wind up with brake pulsation.
 
Last edited:

Mangate

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Messages
271
Reaction score
7
Location
Mexico City
That's a good deal but I'd never turn rotors for my personal vehicle since it leads to faster brake fade and causes to many headaches and can be very unsafe.I'd also never,never,never,never put anything to do with something as important as brakes on my KJ that was bought at autozone,pepboys,advance auto parts,or checkers.Just cheap china junk parts that do not last and are of extreme poor quality.

Just got some Ultra Premium rotors from Napa, and where are they made? CHINA!
 

karter

New Member
Joined
Aug 12, 2009
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Location
Ohio
jsc7002 , drum brakes are not hard to work on but there are safety concerns if you've never performed this type of repair before . If you're going to replace the brakes , get a pad and pencil and make a drawing of the location of all the brake parts . Use a water hose and wash down the brake assembly once you've removed the drum ,wash the drum also , lots of brake dust and not something you want to breath . Generally the drums should be turned even if their smooth to the touch . You want to break the glaze to help seat the new brakes to the drum . Replace the wheel cylinders with new ones , and bleed the entire system rear to front . Fresh brake fluid will do wonders for the brake feel as well as removing contamination from the system . There are lube points on the backing plates ,you'll see where the brake shoes contact the backing plates . Use a small amount of hi-temp grease . Make sure you install the brake shoes in the proper position and make sure the self adjuster is in it's correct position . Do one side at a time so you won't mix parts side to side . As you install the brake drums ,adjust the brakes to give a slight drag on the drums when you turn them , bleed the brakes starting at the right rear and ending at the left front . Don't stop until you get all of the air out at each bleed point . All in all , not a bad job but double check your work so your satisfied everything is correct . And I agree that Napa is your friend ,good parts at a reasonable price . You can go on-line and check prices between Napa and any of the other auto parts stores .
 

AlexKJ

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2007
Messages
314
Reaction score
2
Location
Earthquakeland
Quality of aftermarket products: Federal-Mogul, Fremax, United, Akebono...

Hi :)

Another question for you :D

My original rotors are warped b/c the previous owner of my KJ replaced the OEM ceramic pads for metallic ones :mad:

Well... the thing is I have been looking for aftermarket replacement parts (OEM MOPAR it's so damn expensive) and I run into Akebono ceramic pads and Federal-Mogul, Fremax and United rotors...

Find aftermarket KJ parts here it's almost impossible... So no NAPA, no Powerslot, no Raybestos, no nothing!

Someone have a tip for which brand go after?

Thanks in advance (biggthumpup)
 
Last edited:

Members online

Top