Charging problem

[peavey85]

Hi all, I have a 2004 Liberty Sport 3.7/automatic. I recently replaced the ignition lock pin and switch (SKP and Standard respectively), I lost my door open chime with key in ignition; intermittent horn on lock up using key fob; and now it seems I have a parasitic voltage drain on battery when not running. I also get a wiff of burnt electrical in the cabin only. Took vehicle to Autozone for load test and alt check, everything ok; did batt/alt test with my Innova 3130e code reader, everything ok. Put jumpstart pack with digital voltage readout on and jumped started vehicle; left connected to batt with jump pack turned off, and have 13.7-14v. Turned engine off and voltage drops to 12.8 and continues to drop about a point every 15-20 seconds! Removed fuse panel cover only to find numbers on inside of cover and i don't have the owners manual to tell me what's what! Any suggestions are most welcome at this point; TIA!

 

[tommudd]

I assume you did not have any issues before you changed out the ignition switch ?
I would start there and backtrack, since you are smelling burnt wiring , something has to be pinched, allowing it to work, but also draining battery

 

[LibertyTC]

Have you checked here for the owners manual?

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See page 320 of the 04 owners manual: Free download save it on the computer. https://ownersmanuals2.com/jeep/liberty-2004-owners-manual-34707
I use a VOM /continuity test to ensure fuses are good, and by pulling one fuse at a time, you hopefully can find the find the nasty parasitic drain.

If you want to kill all the power/ stop the drain overnight, there is the 21 day storage fuse #15.
Remove it, and simply move it up 1 to the empty storage slot see *

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[Billwill]

The Ignition Switch is rotated by the Actuator Pin Assembly which is a hollow rectangular structure. Protruding through this hollow tube is a thin plastic sliver.
When the ignition key is fully inserted this "sliver" protrudes a bit further and presses upon a separate contact on the ignition switch. When this contact is made and the door is opened the "ping" happens.
Some owners who have replaced the Actuator Pin Assembly have complained that the "Ping" never stops.
This is because sometimes the "sliver" protruding is too long so the separate switch is made all the time. Some careful trimming of the sliver rectifies the issue.
If you never get the "ping" then either the Sliver is too short or the Ignition Switch itself is faulty or there is bad wiring coming off the ignition switch.
You can remove the Actuator Pin Assembly to inspect the sliver protrusion and test by using a toothpick to gently press into the switch to see if the "ping" action occurs! Also check that no wires are "pinched" in that area.

The current draw after switching off can be difficult to find.
You need to set your Multimeter to 10 Amps reading and move one lead to the "10 Amp" position, disconnect the Positive Battery clamp and connect the meter in series with the removed battery lead and the battery terminal....does not matter which way the meter is connected if it is a Digital Multimeter.

Do not try start the engine...you will blow the meter's internal fuse!

You then need to check the current draw...with the Radio and all lights OFF you should not get a reading above about 40mA ie. 0.040 Amps.
If it is a lot higher current draw than that then you need to try pulling out and re-fitting Fuses one by one to see which circuit has the large current draw.
Then you need to climb into the Schematics which is a problem because we do not have 2004 model Service Manuals...have to make do with 2003 manuals which are a bit different

 

[JeepJeepster]

Before unhooking the battery lead, let the Jeep sit for 10 or so minutes and dont open any doors or anything. Hook your multi meter leads to the battery post and the terminal youre going to remove. If you dont, when you reconnect it may pop the internal fuse anyway when all of the modules 'wake up.' Been there done that.

 

[peavey85]

Thanks all for the replies! Found battery had one last burst of energy then died! New batt, charging/starting all good, no evidence of load draw. When i use fob to lock doors (only rear actuators function) sometimes horn sounds but most of the time no; rear doors still lock/unlock!

 

[Shankster]

Thanks all for the replies! Found battery had one last burst of energy then died! New batt, charging/starting all good, no evidence of load draw. When i use fob to lock doors (only rear actuators function) sometimes horn sounds but most of the time no; rear doors still lock/unlock!

You might keep an eye on the little LEDs on the door lock switches - if you lock the vehicle in the dark, before you walk away, always look and see if those LEDs are on - that's what caused my current drain - it was a bad ignition switch and I could pull the key out in any position and I was occasionally doing that beyond the normal switch position. I went through the same process as you and thought I'd licked it with a new battery only to discover a week later that I still had the problem. New ignition switches can be sticky till they break in so just a possibility.