Clunking / Subtle Grinding When Shifting Gears (R/N/D)

[randomuser107]

So I hopped in my jeep earlier this morning and was in a hurry to get somewhere - I decided not to let it warm whatsoever, my jeep seems to idle around 1k RPMs when the engine in still cold, that's where it was when I started shifting. I felt like I heard something odd and decided to park next to a wall and shift back and forth through the gears a few more times.

I noticed a particular clunk when shifting to R and when shifting to D it just sounded like something was rubbing. This went away for the most part as the engine got hotter and the RPM's went down to the regular idle speed of 500 RPM. Went about my business and came back to my jeep to start it up, played around a few more times, some of the shifts were normal, that robotic sound you typically get when shifting, but others were a bit clunky and sounding like something was rubbing. I checked the trans fluid and it seems to be a bit high, a little past 60mm from what I saw, I must have miscalculated last time I removed fluid as I thought it was around 45-50mm when at operating temp, maybe it's a bit different after driving for a few minutes though.

Anyone have any exp with clunks or rubbing sounds in the trans? Could someone with a KK maybe try to replicate the sound for me if their RPM's are similar for a cold engine? I noticed it's much easier to hear with a wall or object next to the vehicle. I'm hoping it's just that the RPM's were high at idle from the engine being cold but idk... my luck isn't the best so far lol. Thanks in advance to anyone willing to help me out.

 

[LibertyTC]

Probably the best thing to do is get the KK up on a hoist. They can then do a complete driveline inspection.
Once in gear on a lift, shifting Drive to reverse etc, it will probably be obvious what the problem is.

 

[randomuser107]

Probably the best thing to do is get the KK up on a hoist. They can then do a complete driveline inspection.
Once in gear on a lift, shifting Drive to reverse etc, it will probably be obvious what the problem is.

Just went underneath the car and had someone shift between p/r/n/d to check things out. It's definitely the rear drive shaft making the noise, it seems to jolt a bit before rotating into R. Have you heard of that being typical when shifting into reverse?

Not sure if related, probably not but... I noticed my trans pan has a light coating of trans fluid sprayed over it as well as above it around a part of the actual trans... I also see a droplets hanging off of a few bolt heads - would you recommend I loctite the trans pan bolts one by one, or at least any specific bolt? I know you're supposed to use it on the "fifth" bolt possibly..? I don't have a picture to know what bolt would be considered the first, fifth or last though... I think I've seen one posted around here I'll try to dig around

 

[LibertyTC]

I'm going to get Ifhoward involved as he will be more familiar with the KK's drive shaft.
BTW how many miles are on your KK now?
Trans leaks...Clean it all up and see if you can tell where it might be spraying from.
No locktite..Torque to spec.There must be a thread around here about the 5th bolt/rtv?
I'll look later & see if I can find it.

 

[randomuser107]

I'm going to get Ifhoward involved as he will be more familiar with the KK's drive shaft.
BTW how many miles are on your KK now?
Trans leaks...Clean it all up and see if you can tell where it might be spraying from.
No locktite..Torque to spec.There must be a thread around here about the 5th bolt/rtv?
I'll look later & see if I can find it.

Thanks, I'll definitely try do some more searching for the bolt thing, for the most part the trans fluid level hasnt really changed on the dipstick though

 

[lfhoward]

Sorry I can’t add too much to your thread at the moment because I have never done trans fluid changes myself. I’ve always brought it into the shop for transmission-related maintenance. I guess the only relevant experience was the one time they failed to fill it to the right level (it was quite low), and on a cold morning when I would come to a stop at the bottom of a hill, I would lose all power. The engine would rev and it was like I was in neutral. Then as the fluid heated up, it would kick into gear and I’d be able to drive.

 

[LibertyTC]

I found this KJ thread from about 5 years ago.
Ya I forgot when I switched into my PML machined pan/ lubelocker gasket, it has the torque & bolt sequence & I did use the blue thread locker.
So my Post 19# which is applicable and post #25 shows with an image Bolt #5 and the need for lock & seal adhesive there.
Post #21 shows the bolt locations if I remember right.
https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/atf-found-on-trans-pan-bolts.61218/

Also in this thread TJKJ mentions only using the mopar product for OEM stamped steel pans.

MOPAR part #5010884AA = solution to leaking trans pan.
Never use any type of gasket on any Chrysler trans made in the last 20 years if using the stock trans pan.Only use the above part # ATF RTV from the dealer.

^link: https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/transmission-pan-bolt-torque-thanks.60777/

 

[lfhoward]

Just went underneath the car and had someone shift between p/r/n/d to check things out. It's definitely the rear drive shaft making the noise, it seems to jolt a bit before rotating into R. Have you heard of that being typical when shifting into reverse?

So do you think the U joint in your driveshaft has play in it? I don’t know why a driveshaft U joint wouldn’t be replaceable, but the factory parts manual is showing the shaft plus both U joints as a single part number.

 

[turblediesel]

I would suspect u-joints.

 

[randomuser107]

So do you think the U joint in your driveshaft has play in it? I don’t know why a driveshaft U joint wouldn’t be replaceable, but the factory parts manual is showing the shaft plus both U joints as a single part number.

Thanks for the replies guys, can you share the part number you're seeing?

So I guess I have to replace the entire drive shaft? What luck

https://www.buyautoparts.com/buynow/2011/jeep/liberty/driveshaft/91-00665_n

Is something like this just not worth it? Looks entirely different from my current rear driveshaft... selected option 2 on the dropdown menu for parts

 

[turblediesel]

No need to replace the whole driveshaft. Just the two u-joints. You can even replace them with greasable u-joints like I did.

Dealers just like to make money; plus, it's easier to swap out entire drive shafts than it is to replace the u-joints. In the dealer's perfect world they sell you a new car every time anything breaks.

 

[LibertyTC]

Radomuser107 can you call the dealer please & give them you VIN# & ask them what the part number is for the aluminum KK driveshaft?
Also inquire about replacing the U-joints, & if that is possible? Part# ?
Mopar seems to suggest only a single part number for the complete driveshaft. We sure need some answer's from the dealer.

 

[lfhoward]

I have this info from the Factory Parts Manual for the 08 KK but the image hosting site I use is currently down. I’ll come back and post once that site comes back up.

 

[lfhoward]

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[tommudd]

I don't think the U-Joints are replaceable in the KKs rear driveshaft
I know several people had issues early on and always had to buy a new shaft or have one custom made

 

[tommudd]

Radomuser107 can you call the dealer please & give them you VIN# & ask them what the part number is for the aluminum KK driveshaft?
Also inquire about replacing the U-joints, & if that is possible? Part# ?
Mopar seems to suggest only a single part number for the complete driveshaft. We sure need some answer's from the dealer.

Can not replace the u-joints on KKs

( just in case someone ignores my post above )

 

[lfhoward]

I’d be getting one from a low mileage totaled out donor KK if I needed one. I’d look for a matching KK (auto trans, command trac transfer case) to make sure it fits. Should be an easy swap.

 

[tommudd]

I'll bet Tom Woods is building some since there has to be more than just a few going bad

 

[lfhoward]

^^^ That’s what I had in mind if my driveshaft was going to hit the gas tank skid with my 4 inch lift. Tom Woods driveshafts are smaller diameter than our wide aluminum driveshafts. But my JBA adjustable track bar keeps the rear end lined up where it should be, so no contact issues.

 

[randomuser107]

Hey guys, been a little busy, thanks for the replies - wound up having to get the refrigerant in my jeep recharged, but found a really awesome mechanic in my area after going through countless scam mechanics who would need to hold my car for 5 days for the recharge lol, will call the dealership tomorrow hopefully and give them my VIN so I can get an exact part number.

Don't know how I missed these replies I guess my email notifications are off for some reason.