COOLANT HOSES WERE BACKWARDS!!

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SXYFSH327

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So after few weeks of overheating @#$%... I finally found the problem...the coolant resovoir hoses were backwards...now my jeep doesn't want to start but will after a few tries, barely, and will drop idle to .5 very shaky if I accelerate it is smooth (in prk) quick test drive fluids pouring out the exhaust pipe...what happened (i know the process that happened i want to know the damage that happened) and how do I fix it!
 

sota

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pressure test might tell you. visual inspection is the only way to be sure.
 

turblediesel

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Unlikely the block cracked. I'm assuming the 3.7 has a cast iron block. Generally the alloy heads warp or develop tiny cracks. A compression test will show cylinders with bad compression. The long cranking before starting is an indication of low compression.
 

SXYFSH327

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Unlikely the block cracked. I'm assuming the 3.7 has a cast iron block. Generally the alloy heads warp or develop tiny cracks. A compression test will show cylinders with bad compression. The long cranking before starting is an indication of low compression.
So it pretty much starts right up and from what I think I know yes it's a cast iron and I hear they are hard to crack...but since it took me 3 weeks to figure out the issue it got so hot it died in the middle of the road...which is severe enough I feel it's actually possible...*super sad face*
 

lfhoward

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You can definitely do a compression test at home. I have not ever done one, but I went to YouTube and have seen it done a lot. You can get the compression tester from your local auto parts store. It will screw into a spark plug hole. Pull the fuel pump fuse, so you don’t actually have combustion, but crank the engine over several times and you can read the compression on the pressure gauge. If all 6 cylinders are pretty equal, you’re fine. I *think* good compression on out engines is something like 180 on the gauge. If 5 cylinders are at about 180 and one is at 150 or lower, you are losing compression somewhere at that cylinder. It doesn’t need to be a cracked block. A head gasket leak, cracked head, or a valve problem could cause low compression too. So could age and wear on the piston rings, where you get blow-by.
 

SXYFSH327

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Well I'm sure I at least cracked or warped a head gasket I need to find out if I also maybe cracked the block before I pay to fix the head gasket...
 

sota

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compression test tool is easy to get and shouldn't cost much.
I wouldn't know actual cost, as mine was my dad's and it's gotta be at least 50+ years old (it's older than me after all!)
you can also look at the plugs to see what they look like, and possibly bore scope the pistons. steam cleaned means it's burning water, literally!
there's also a good chance that there will be coolant in the cylinder when you look, if you're dumping water out the exhaust.
you should also check you oil to make sure it's not getting contaminated.
regardless, it sounds pretty bad from your description.
at best, new head gasket(s).
at worst, entire new short block at least.
 

Ksat

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A block test is usually the de facto test for head gasket (and related) issues. Autozone and Advance usually rent those kits out. Compression test results can be misleading in some instances. I, personally, test by pumping compressed air into a cylinder, set the cylinder at TDC, then take the rad cap off and see if there's any bubbles.
 

SXYFSH327

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A block test is usually the de facto test for head gasket (and related) issues. Autozone and Advance usually rent those kits out. Compression test results can be misleading in some instances. I, personally, test by pumping compressed air into a cylinder, set the cylinder at TDC, then take the rad cap off and see if there's any bubbles.
And this will tell me if the block is cracked without being confused because the head gasket is broke?
 

sota

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if you have combustion gases in the cooling system, you have at least bad head gaskets. you won't know if you have a cracked block unless you pull it, strip it, and magnaflux it.
 

KJowner

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I assume you are loosing coolant when you say fluid is coming out of the exhaust?
i wouldn't run it, if you have coolant in that sort of quantity leaking through the engine you could hydraulic it.
It's unlikely that the block has cracked, usually when overheated the heads warp and it blows through the gasket where the clamping force has been lost. The only real way to find out exactly what has happened is to strip it down and see what's inside. Testing with it assembled will tell you which cylinder(s?) are leaking but as it needs to come to bits for repair anyway that information isn't incredibly useful!
Once it's in bits you can inspect the block and check all surfaces with a straight edge, I'd also get the heads pressure tested incase they have an internal crack and skimmed as required. I believe the V6 has a habit of dropping valve seats (not familiar with your engine, mine are both diesel) so get them checked too while it's in bits.
 

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