Crd engine thermostats

[uss2defiant]

Have you considered casting?
I have a 3D printer at work. If the housing isn't too big I could print it for free so you can make a mold for casting which might drop production cost if you're machining each one.

 

[uss2defiant]

I didn't think it was that complicated of a part.
I thought it might be simple enough to be sand casted at home.
Just thought I'd offer.
Good luck!

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

Where are some of my postings? :shrug:

I have posted several days ago that I am ready to start a production run on the new thermostats I have designed.

CRD owners who have engine temperature gauges that are significantly to the left of dead-centre while driving are running their engines too cool, and require a properly designed thermostat with a valve that should be about 30 degrees hotter. The older the thermostat, the cooler the engine runs; this contributes to poor fuel economy, robs power, and contributes to reliability problems.

Anyone wanting a superior thermostat to the one offered by the stealerships, please contact me by e-mail or by private message.

 

[yellocoyote]

I'm guessing you need to speak with the site owner, Shaggy, about a vendor account for selling your product on the forum.

After a quick glance, that seems to be what the majority of your posts are about.

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

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GOOD NEWS, CRD OWNERS! I HAVE STARTED THE FIRST PRODUCTION RUN OF THE NEW DESIGN LIBERTY CRD ENGINE THERMOSTATS.

PHOTOS OF THE FIRST UNITS CAN BE SEEN ON MY PHOTO ALBUM... (I am not sure how to post on a thread.). :angry94:

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FOR ANYONE INTERESTED IN ORDERING ONE OF THESE, I HAVE 2 SPACES LEFT ON THE FIRST PRODUCTION RUN. CONTACT ME FOR THE DETAILS.

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

Update to thermostat project

Hello, fellow CRD owners:

The following photos are posted to show that indeed progress is being made in the manufacture of the first production run of Hot Diesel Solutions Model 001 thermostat for the Liberty CRD engine.

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The caps and the hose barbs are finished; all that is left to do is retrieve the main housings from the anodizers, assemble the units, and then ship them out.


All of these thermostats are spoken for, if you want one now, you will have to pay up front and then wait for 9 others to also pay up front, at which point a second production run will start. Expect delivery within 6 - 8 weeks after production starts.

 

[jrsavoie]

The first thing I want is a thermometer / graduated temperature gauge.

I want to know the actual temp the Jeep is running at. And if I install the new thermostat housing, I will want to know the temperature it is running at after the install. And if I install an electric fan kit, I will want to know the actual temp the Jeep is running at then.

I do not trust anything that is controlled or dependent on the computer. Our Speedometer is 5 miles off. At 55 mph it shows we are going 60 mph.

I just want a good old fashioned temperature gauge. With freaking numbers on it. As opposed to some other kind of number.

H & C do not tell me squat. I want numbers that are not dependent on some signal through the computer

Does anybody have a good link to anything that will work? Any suggestions for mounting?

Has anybody done this yet?

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

CRD temperature gauges...

The first thing I want is a thermometer / graduated temperature gauge.

I want to know the actual temp the Jeep is running at. And if I install the new thermostat housing, I will want to know the temperature it is running at after the install. And if I install an electric fan kit, I will want to know the actual temp the Jeep is running at then.

I do not trust anything that is controlled or dependent on the computer. Our Speedometer is 5 miles off. At 55 mph it shows we are going 60 mph.

I just want a good old fashioned temperature gauge. With freaking numbers on it. As opposed to some other kind of number.

H & C do not tell me squat. I want numbers that are not dependent on some signal through the computer

Does anybody have a good link to anything that will work? Any suggestions for mounting?

Has anybody done this yet?

I am sure that this has been done; but by who? I do not know.

I can tell you that plugging an OBDII reader into your port under the steering wheel is a good way to get an actual number - a proper engine temperature reading - of your engine when it is running. We did this to get and actual temperature reading of the engine when we had a prototype thermostat installed. Our reading was 95 degrees Celcius, (203 degrees Fahrenheit), when the engine was fully warmed up. This is exactly the temperature we were expecting, because we used a 203 degree thermostat. I therefore doubt that the readings coming off of the OBDII port are inaccurate.

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

What is "H & C"?

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

jrsavoie!! Solution for mounting extra temp gauge!

The first thing I want is a thermometer / graduated temperature gauge.

Good news, jrsavoie!!

[FONT=&quot]I may have a solution for your desire for an aftermarket graduated temperature gauge. I will be doing a modification to the third production run of my new design thermostat to allow the installation of a second aftermarket engine temperature gauge sending unit. This will make the installation of an aftermarket temperature gauge a snap.

I was convinced to do this modification by a Mr. Bruno Stockinger from Hackensack, New Jersey. He has already paid for his thermostat, and was in line to receive a thermostat from the second production run. However, he asked me where he could drill into the housing of his new thermostat to mount a second temperature sending unit. :thumbsdown: My reply was... HMMMM... NO, NO, NO! The current design of my thermostat does not allow for modifications of that type.

I asked Bruno if the aftermarket gauge could somehow get readings from the O.E. sending unit, and he said that was not possible. I also checked with three different gauge manufacturers, all of whom said that temperature gauges must be properly matched to the sending unit, and that tapping into any circuit that leads to the ECU was not a good idea. Essentially, if someone wants to install a second temperature gauge, they need a second location for the sending unit that is properly matched up with that gauge.

Fortunately, because my thermostat housing is manufactured by CNC machining, I can easily modify the design to allow for the installation of a second temperature gauge sending unit. I simply extend the thick part of the housing where I drilled and tapped a hole for the O.E. temperature gauge sending unit down to the bottom of the main chamber of the housing. This will allow enough aluminum for a second hole to be drilled for a second temperature gauge sending unit.

[/FONT][FONT=&quot]Mr. Stockinger can help you with the installation of your temperature gauge, and recommends the use of ISSPRO gauges. If you want some help with this installation, reply back to me with contact information so I can pass you along to Bruno.

Below is a thumbnail of the side of the new thermostat with the existing hole drilled and tapped for the O.E. temperature gauge sending unit....

Best regards,[/FONT]

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

First production run of thermostats sent dec 24, 2014.

For all of you CRD owners following this thread:

The first production run of the new engine thermostat has been shipped December 24, 2014. As of Sunday, January 3, 2014, three of the nine units shipped have already arrived at their destination.

I STILL HAVE AT LEAST THREE THERMOSTATS FROM THE SECOND PRODUCTION RUN AVAILABLE FOR SALE. PRODUCTION IS ABOUT 75% COMPLETE... IF YOU WANT ONE, PLEASE CONTACT ME AS SOON AS POSSIBLE, AND PROVIDE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION...

1) ... your full legal name.
2) ... your complete shipping address, including zip code or postal code. Please indicate if the address is a business or a residence.
3) ... your telephone contact number or numbers. Please indicate if the number is a business, a residential, or a mobile number. Please also indicate the time zone you live in, and preferred times to call you.
4) ... a valid E-mail address. Please indicate if the e-mail address is personal, or business. I do virtually all of my business via PayPal, and therefore send the invoices directly to you via E-mail. Canadian customers can perform a direct transfer to my bank account.

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

All first production run thermostats delivered

Just a quick update... as of January 10, 2015, all of the thermostats from the first production run have been delivered. :happy107:

Check out the reaction of my customers on the following thread...

LOST JEEPS • View topic - ADD YOUR NAME HERE IF YOU WANT A NEW DESIGN THERMOSTAT.

Go to page 12 to avoid reading through the whole story. Don't hesitate to contact me by private message or E-mail if you have any questions...

Best regards,

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

Another update:

The entire second production has been shipped as of February 27, 2015. Two of these shipments have already arrived at their destination. Look to the Jeep Liberty CRD Facebook page for feedback from my customers, and to the following link on LOSTJEEPS.com...

LOST JEEPS • View topic - ADD YOUR NAME HERE IF YOU WANT A NEW DESIGN THERMOSTAT.
​

I am currently taking orders for the third production run, which will, (hopefully), feature two extra threaded ports for aftermarket equipment installations such as aftermarket temperature gauges and conversions to electric cooling fans. PLEASE SEE PREVIOUS POSTING FOR THE CONTACT INFORMATION I REQUIRE TO SEND A PAYPAL INVOICE.

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

Second generation model 001 available now

I am attempting to post some photos comparing the first generation Hot Diesel Solutions Model 001 prototype engine thermostat assembly with the second generation Model 001 prototype.

The first gen unit was in my blue Liberty CRD since the fall of 2014, and it has performed flawlessly... no leaks, and proper temperature control of the engine, which is something I can not say for the O.E. part. Your V.M. Motori R425 and R428 engines will now operate at a proper, (read that as HIGHER), temperature, and thermostat valve change-outs will be cheap and easy to do.

The second gen unit was designed with the same attention to detail and quality the first gen unit received; the only difference between the two being the addition of extra threaded ports for easy installation of aftermarket engine temperature sending units for aftermarket temperature gauges and conversions to electric cooling fans. Mr. jrsavoie, you now have the means to easily install your aftermarket engine temperature gauge. arty33:

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PHOTO #1 SHOWS NEW GENERATION MODEL 001 PROTOTYPE WITH 1/8" NPT THREADED HOLE FOR AFTERMARKET TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT.

PHOTO #2 SHOWS A COMPARISON BETWEEN FIRST GENERATION PROTOTYPE AND SECOND GENERATION PROTOTYPE FROM THE SIDE THAT HAS THE HOSE BARB FOR THE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE.

PHOTO #3 SHOWS A COMPARISON BETWEEN FIRST GENERATION PROTOTYPE AND SECOND GENERATION PROTOTYPE FROM THE SIDE THAT HAS THE O.E. TEMPERATURE SENDING UNIT THREADED HOLE, (O.E. T.S.U. INSTALLED ON SECOND GENERATION PROTOTYPE). THE EXTRA THREADED HOLE IS 1/4" NPT FOR ANOTHER AFTERMARKET T.S.U.

PHOTO #4 SHOW THE SAME COMPARISON AS PHOTO #3, BUT THIS TIME THE O.E. T.S.U. IS INSTALLED ON THE FIRST GENERATION PROTOTYPE.

I have 15 extra Model 001 assemblies being made at the time of writing this. If you want one, please see earlier postings on how to send your advanced payment to me.

Best regards,

 

[twowings]

Looks sexy! wish I HAD a CRD...looking forward to hearing some customer testamonials....

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

Lack of feedback

Looks sexy! wish I HAD a CRD...looking forward to hearing some customer testamonials....

Trying to get customers to leave ANY feedback is like pulling teeth...

lugged:

If anyone on this forum decides to purchase a Model 001, P-L-E-A-S-E post your thoughts and impressions before and after installation. Other customers need to know from people other than me how good my thermostats are.

 

[neal.]

thought i would revive a old thread*

my 2.8 kj runs at a quater of way up but have noticed the water light come on around every couple of hundered miles and when i check its just at the minimum level a little top up and all is fine truck drives fine and pulls strong could a buggerd thermo cause this or would i hace a leak somewhere? or water pump?

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

thought i would revive a old thread*

my 2.8 kj runs at a quater of way up but have noticed the water light come on around every couple of hundered miles and when i check its just at the minimum level a little top up and all is fine truck drives fine and pulls strong could a buggerd thermo cause this or would i hace a leak somewhere? or water pump?

It sounds to me like you have a bad thermostat AND a separate slow leak somewhere. Have you hoisted the vehicle up and checked under the engine bay for the source of the leak? How about your engine oil... does it have milky-white coloring in the oil? Milky engine oil is indicative of a bad head gasket, or perhaps a bad water pump.

I have not experienced any engine coolant leaking in either of the Liberty CRDs my family owns, even when I was running the O.E. thermostat. In fact, I have not witnessed the O.E. thermostat being the cause of engine coolant leaking in any CRD I have worked on. They are terrible engine thermostats for the R428 engine because the thermostat valve inside is designed to open at too low a temperature for a modern turbo-diesel engine, not because they are prone to causing leaks.

The way you describe your engine's temperature gauge is a strong indication to me that your thermostat has failed open. As a result, and despite the fact that you state the engine "pulls strong", you are not getting all of the power and fuel economy that the R428 engine is capable of.

I designed the Hot Diesel Solutions Model 001 engine thermostat to cure the problems the V.M. Motori R425 and R428 engines have with maintaining proper engine temperature. The Model 001 will significantly contribute to the engine running at peak efficiency, and will help lower your overall operational costs... maintenance is lowered and fuel efficiency is increased.

Furthermore, if you have a Model 001 installed on your engine, future thermostat change-outs are cheap and easy to do. The housing has a removable cap that allows you to easily change out the inexpensive and easy-to-find thermostat valve inside; this means you no longer have to change out the entire housing like the O.E. part. This also allows you to change operational engine temperatures, because the thermostat valve I use in the Model 001 comes in three opening temperatures; 203 degrees Fahrenheit, (recommended), 190 degrees, and 180 degrees.

Although I recommend the 203 degree valve for most applications, perhaps the customer feels differently, as he or she may be towing a trailer with maximum weight in hot weather. Perhaps in this scenario, it may be better to use a 190 degree or 180 degree valve. My design - the Model 001 - allows for that.

 

[neal.]

It sounds to me like you have a bad thermostat AND a separate slow leak somewhere. Have you hoisted the vehicle up and checked under the engine bay for the source of the leak? How about your engine oil... does it have milky-white coloring in the oil? Milky engine oil is indicative of a bad head gasket, or perhaps a bad water pump.

I have not experienced any engine coolant leaking in either of the Liberty CRDs my family owns, even when I was running the O.E. thermostat. In fact, I have not witnessed the O.E. thermostat being the cause of engine coolant leaking in any CRD I have worked on. They are terrible engine thermostats for the R428 engine because the thermostat valve inside is designed to open at too low a temperature for a modern turbo-diesel engine, not because they are prone to causing leaks.

The way you describe your engine's temperature gauge is a strong indication to me that your thermostat has failed open. As a result, and despite the fact that you state the engine "pulls strong", you are not getting all of the power and fuel economy that the R428 engine is capable of.

I designed the Hot Diesel Solutions Model 001 engine thermostat to cure the problems the V.M. Motori R425 and R428 engines have with maintaining proper engine temperature. The Model 001 will significantly contribute to the engine running at peak efficiency, and will help lower your overall operational costs... maintenance is lowered and fuel efficiency is increased.

Furthermore, if you have a Model 001 installed on your engine, future thermostat change-outs are cheap and easy to do. The housing has a removable cap that allows you to easily change out the inexpensive and easy-to-find thermostat valve inside; this means you no longer have to change out the entire housing like the O.E. part. This also allows you to change operational engine temperatures, because the thermostat valve I use in the Model 001 comes in three opening temperatures; 203 degrees Fahrenheit, (recommended), 190 degrees, and 180 degrees.

Although I recommend the 203 degree valve for most applications, perhaps the customer feels differently, as he or she may be towing a trailer with maximum weight in hot weather. Perhaps in this scenario, it may be better to use a 190 degree or 180 degree valve. My design - the Model 001 - allows for that.

thank you for your reply

the oil is clean no water leaking into the oil and no oil into the water

when i looked over the engine from the top all i noticed was a small oil breather that was loose which is now fitted back on propley

it dose drip on the floor from the back of the engine somewhere i think this is coolant thats running down the back and when hitting the floor is a black colour as its way to watery for oil and the oil is spot on no change on dip stick etc

few people have said its the radiator or the lower hose that conects to it ??

yes i think i need a new thermostat im in the uk will be be expensive to ship one to me here?

this is the first jeep i have owned so really do appreciate your help

 

[TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK]

thank you for your reply

the oil is clean no water leaking into the oil and no oil into the water

when i looked over the engine from the top all i noticed was a small oil breather that was loose which is now fitted back on propley

it dose drip on the floor from the back of the engine somewhere i think this is coolant thats running down the back and when hitting the floor is a black colour as its way to watery for oil and the oil is spot on no change on dip stick etc

few people have said its the radiator or the lower hose that conects to it ??

yes i think i need a new thermostat im in the uk will be be expensive to ship one to me here?

this is the first jeep i have owned so really do appreciate your help

Without actually being able to look your vehicle over, I can not give you an accurate diagnosis on your coolant leak. The leak may be quite minor, given the fact that the coolant level goes down very slowly. You may also want to look at the steel coolant lines for evidence of cracking; usually at the joints or mounting spots.

I have not shipped the Model 001 to the U.K. or to Europe yet, so I am unsure of how much the shipping is going to be, or of the taxes that would be imposed by the U.K. government as it clears customs. I would like to speak to you at length about this as I am looking for a European and/or a U.K. distributor... would you be comfortable sending me your contact telephone number and appropriate times to call you via private message?