CRD Tune Up and Other Work

[RockinRam96]

Hey Gents!

I have a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD with almost 200,000 miles on it. The engine runs and drives flawlessly. I'd like to keep it that way so I am planning a whole gammet of work both engine and chassis work. Here is my list of planned work

Engine Work
- Timing belt (all new tensioners and belt)
- Water Pump
- Serpentine belt with new tensioner
- Rockers and lifters
- ARP Head Studs
- Hot Diesel Thermostat housing and thermostat
- EGR delete
- Upgrade in-tank electric fuel pump

Chassis Work
- Regear to 4.11s
- Front locker (Eaton Detroit Trutrac)
- Iron Rock Off Road rear adjustable A-Arm and lower control arms

Body work
- Custom Front bumper
- Custom Rear bumper
- Custom rock sliders
- Custom Roof Rack

With all of this work I have a few questions for you CRD owners or wrenches.

1. With the rocker arm and lifter swap, is there any adjusting that needs to take place once the new lifters have been installed? From what I read, seen on YouTube videos and gather from looking at the rockers and lifters there is not a way to adjust them. Is this correct?

2. Been going round and round about a locker. Was initially set on a rear locker, but after talking with a few guys and doing some research, it seems as though a front locker is the best route for a single locker. I have found plenty of Dana Eaton Trutracs available for the Dana 30. However, being that this is a Dana 30a in these Jeeps, is there a difference in the carrier? From what I gather the carrier and and ring gear are the same between the 30 and 30a. The pinion shaft is the difference. Is this correct? A Dana 30 Detroit Trutrac will work in the Dana 30a, correct?

3. When replacing head bolts with head studs, do you start from the inside and work out? Do you bring the studs to full torque before removing the next head bolt?

All responses are greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Zach

 

[turblediesel]

#1 Correct.

#2 Don't know. 4.10 Gears, not 4.11. Do you have a limited slip rear diff.?

#3 Use the camifold torque pattern in the service manual. Be carefull though; the service manual has a picture that shows each bolt numbered sequentially which isn't a proper tightening sequence at all, just an unecessary confusion. The proper sequence is in the manual, just less obvious than the picture. It is a standard inside to outside criss-cross circle sequence. LOST jeeps forum has torque specs and much discussion on the topic.

 

[KJowner]

Just bought an SKF cam belt, idlers, tensioner and pump for mine, you probably know but avoid Chinese bits if you want to keep the valves and pistons apart!

 

[RockinRam96]

#1 Correct.

#2 Don't know. 4.10 Gears, not 4.11. Do you have a limited slip rear diff.?

#3 Use the camifold torque pattern in the service manual. Be carefull though; the service manual has a picture that shows each bolt numbered sequentially which isn't a proper tightening sequence at all, just an unecessary confusion. The proper sequence is in the manual, just less obvious than the picture. It is a standard inside to outside criss-cross circle sequence. LOST jeeps forum has torque specs and much discussion on the topic.

#1 Good to know.

#2 Right 4.10s. I forget what these are all the time but does 0.01 make that much of a difference?! Ha ha

#3 Where can I find said manual? I have Googled it a few times in the past but never seems to turn anything up of merit. I will also surf around on LOST. Thanks.

 

[RockinRam96]

Just bought an SKF cam belt, idlers, tensioner and pump for mine, you probably know but avoid Chinese bits if you want to keep the valves and pistons apart!

Right. I bought all my parts from Sasquatch, so I’m hopeful I didn’t get any Chinese junk…

 

[KJowner]

I think Sasquatch has a good reputation, I'm in the UK so never used him.
If you search for the manual on here you'll find a link to a free download from Colorado.