Distilled water only in radiator

[M38 Bob]

If you truly want to save the money of having a flush done just pull the engine coolant drain plugs. One is located under the middle freeze out plug on the passengers side. Then on the drivers side you will need to loosen up the starter and the drain plug is located under the middle freeze out plug. Just a FYI they are hex head plugs so you will need a set of allen wrenches to remove them.

Don't know if that'd really qualify as a "flush",,, but it's truly the only way to fully "drain" the system. Regardless of any other procedures, there's no other way to get the water jackets empty.

Bob

 

[uss2defiant]

The cost to buy a bunch of distilled water to drain and fill without the T-stat until clear + cost of HOAT comes out to be only slightly cheaper than getting it flushed at a shop.

 

[Birdman330]

Well in major shops now, its becoming ''Shop Correct'' to say a Fluid Exchange, that Flush is a false term now to use. They're not Flush Machines they're Fluid Exchange Machines. It was being used as that term when I left Bridgestone and was being put into Dealerships when I went to work for Chrysler.

 

[biz999]

When refilling the radiator after draining does all the coolant go back in through the radiator overfill tank? Or do you know to fill portions up elsewhere?

Also the procedure to get air out of the system seems just to be to run it for a bit. Correct?

 

[uss2defiant]

coolant capacity is 14 quarts including the overflow tank.

It does not automatically return to the overflow tank as you are refilling. This only happens when the engine is running at temperature.

There's a air bleeder screw by the upper radiator hose as it meets the engine block. It's a hex screw. When refilling, refill there first. That will fill most of the radiator and the engine block then fill up the overflow tank.

Screw that bleeder screw most of the way and let your jeep run. You'll see bubbles as it expels/bleeds the air out. Tighten it back up after it stops bubbling.

 

[CactusJacked]

Well in major shops now, its becoming ''Shop Correct'' to say a Fluid Exchange, that Flush is a false term now to use.

I've had "fluid exchanges" done on some of my automatic transmission cars in the past. I refer to it as a transfusion, like what you can get at the hospital. In with the new, out with the old...

You must be registered for see images

 

[biz999]

I replaced my radiator today successfully. We'll see over the next couple days if there's any little leaks to deal with. After I drained from the draincock I was treated to some pretty nasty fluid when I disconnected the lower rad hose. I'll definitely being taking it to the dealer for a flush soon.

Procedure: drain fluid through drain ****, remove 4 torx 20 screws and remove front grill, remove air intake feeder neck thing (2 tabs), remove radiator support 4x10mm bolts, remove electric fan 2x10mm bolts wiggle wiggle wiggle past the mechanical fan and hoses, disconnect condenser 2x10mm bolts, disconnect auxiliary radiator like thing 2x10mm bolts, undo 2x10mm bolts hiding behind rubbery stuff and going through big rubber washer things, disconnect various hoses, wiggle radiator out. Reverse to install, swap rubber pieces from old radiator to new radiator. 2002 Jeep Liberty Limited w/AC, heavy duty cooling, tow package, Mopar radiator part #52080118AB.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[biz999]

After replacing my radiator yesterday I went for a quick highway run to test everything out. I found some coolant along the bottom side below the radiator. I inspected and felt around all the hoses and didn't find any leaks. Felt around everywhere couldn't find anything. There was just seemed to be coolant along with rubbery stuff. Any ideas? Could it just be leftover fluid from the empty, replace, fill and bleed? Feeling around the top of the ledge where the drops are I couldn't find any coolant. It just seemed to be in between the rubber layers... Also it wasn't there the morning so it's not occurring with the Jeep off and stationary. Either coolant system pressure or wind are pushing it out of somewhere.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Dave]

I was going to change my coolant and I bought the Zerex G05 HOAT at NAPA. It was not pre-mixed so I bought distilled water at wallyworld and was all set to start. The first thing I started was to unscrew the PLASTIC drain on the radiator and it was on there real good. I was afraid I would brake it. I went up the street to a local shop that is pretty good and had them do it with their machine and they used HOAT. It cost $99 so it was worth it to me because if I broke that PLASTIC drain off I would have been replacing the radiator too.


Radiators are crap these days on all vehicles. I remember when they were all copper and metal and they used to rebuild them. You would just take your leaky rad to a shop nearby and switch it out for a rebuilt one. They wanted your old one or they would charge you a core charge so you needed to bring your old one in. No one remembers this. That shop is long gone. I am showing my age here now. So much for the old days.






Dave

 

[CactusJacked]

Radiators are crap these days on all vehicles. I remember when they were all copper and metal and they used to rebuild them. You would just take your leaky rad to a shop nearby and switch it out for a rebuilt one. They wanted your old one or they would charge you a core charge so you needed to bring your old one in. No one remembers this. That shop is long gone. I am showing my age here now. So much for the old days.
Dave

Oh I remember those days too. Unfortunately, there's now a Dunkin Donuts standing where the old radiator/machine shop used to be.

 

[uss2defiant]

You should pressure test your system.

 

[ltd02]

I remember when they were all copper and metal and they used to rebuild them. You would just take your leaky rad to a shop nearby and switch it out for a rebuilt one. They wanted your old one or they would charge you a core charge so you needed to bring your old one in. No one remembers this. That shop is long gone. I am showing my age here now. So much for the old days.

Oh I remember those days too. Unfortunately, there's now a Dunkin Donuts standing where the old radiator/machine shop used to be.

I remember them well. The good old days. :sad72:

 

[biz999]

We'll see how it fairs over the next few drives. I only saw those drips after the first trip around the block and then again after the first highway trip. I think it might just be spilled coolant from the previous radiator breaking being blown out of a tight spot. I'll watch it to make sure.

 

[M38 Bob]

I remember them well. The good old days. :sad72:

Yea!! Back when a car that actually made it to 100,000 was woreassed out! Those old radiators were pretty fragile back then too.

Bob

 

[ltd02]

Yea!! Back when a car that actually made it to 100,000 was woreassed out! Those old radiators were pretty fragile back then too.

Bob

Very true. I remember getting one radiator patched/sealed several times. 100k seemed like a lot now 200k isn't all that much.

 

[M38 Bob]

Change ignition points every 6-8k miles, plugs every 12. Premium fiberglass bias-belted tires were good for an awesome 20,000 miles. Exhaust would be rusted out in 2 yrs or less.

Yep, the good old days,,,,,,,,,

Bob