DIY-PCV-TSB

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

duderz7

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Messages
1,499
Reaction score
1,256
Location
Weiser, ID
I know this really isn't anything new, but I also know some of the parts are not available. So I got this done for the price of the new PCV valve about $20 and about $4 for a set of 2 coolant bypass plugs.
You must be registered for see images attach
before
You must be registered for see images attach
this is section that "T"s into the hose from the air box back to right head under coolant overflow. It broke on the way out which was fine because I planned to do so anyway.
You must be registered for see images attach
here it is with about 4.5 inches of 5/8 hose replacing the "T"
You must be registered for see images attach
Here it is installed and the plug on the og PCV. I know the spring clamp is probably necessary, but had had a few hanging around so why not.
You must be registered for see images attach
Next was removal of the crank case breather fitting from the back of the leftside head. Everything I've read said a deep 19mm would do it. Mine required a 12mm or possibly a 7/16 allen wrench. I had neither and doubling allen wrenches didn't work, but vice grips did. Put the new PCV in it's place with the use of a deep 34mm socket and snugged it up.
You must be registered for see images attach
This is the original hose to the breather removed that normally runs all the way to the PCV on the oil.filler neck.I cut it so it would go straight to the intake where the other hose "T"d in.
You must be registered for see images attach
Using a heat gun and a copper pipe bender (the spring looking thing) to keep the plastic hose from collapsing or kicking I adjusted the angle. I also trimmed the elbow on top of the new PCV to get it as low as possible. Using a bit of the rubber elbow from the old PCV slipped over the other end of the custom plastic bit I connected the two. Took a few tries to get the angle and length right, but it came out well.
You must be registered for see images attach
after
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
leftovers. I'll keep an eye out for the oil filler neck without the PCV next time I'm at a wrecking yard, maybe some of the proper hoses, but for now I'm happy with the outcome.
 

DadOSix

Full Access Member
Joined
May 20, 2020
Messages
777
Reaction score
442
Location
Cumberland, MD.
I know this really isn't anything new, but I also know some of the parts are not available. So I got this done for the price of the new PCV valve about $20 and about $4 for a set of 2 coolant bypass plugs.
You must be registered for see images attach
before
You must be registered for see images attach
this is section that "T"s into the hose from the air box back to right head under coolant overflow. It broke on the way out which was fine because I planned to do so anyway.
You must be registered for see images attach
here it is with about 4.5 inches of 5/8 hose replacing the "T"
You must be registered for see images attach
Here it is installed and the plug on the og PCV. I know the spring clamp is probably necessary, but had had a few hanging around so why not.
You must be registered for see images attach
Next was removal of the crank case breather fitting from the back of the leftside head. Everything I've read said a deep 19mm would do it. Mine required a 12mm or possibly a 7/16 allen wrench. I had neither and doubling allen wrenches didn't work, but vice grips did. Put the new PCV in it's place with the use of a deep 34mm socket and snugged it up.
You must be registered for see images attach
This is the original hose to the breather removed that normally runs all the way to the PCV on the oil.filler neck.I cut it so it would go straight to the intake where the other hose "T"d in.
You must be registered for see images attach
Using a heat gun and a copper pipe bender (the spring looking thing) to keep the plastic hose from collapsing or kicking I adjusted the angle. I also trimmed the elbow on top of the new PCV to get it as low as possible. Using a bit of the rubber elbow from the old PCV slipped over the other end of the custom plastic bit I connected the two. Took a few tries to get the angle and length right, but it came out well.
You must be registered for see images attach
after
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
leftovers. I'll keep an eye out for the oil filler neck without the PCV next time I'm at a wrecking yard, maybe some of the proper hoses, but for now I'm happy with the outcome.
damn fine job!
 

duderz7

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Messages
1,499
Reaction score
1,256
Location
Weiser, ID
You must be registered for see images attach
a quick update. The original rubber I used at the pcv / intake connection split split, so I cobbled this together. The hose, as you can see collapsed after a few heat cycles.
You must be registered for see images attach
found a spring that fits the inside diameter and cut it to length.
You must be registered for see images attach
a little bend on the cut, nobody wants hole in their rubber.
You must be registered for see images attach
all better.
 

ElecTape

Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2020
Messages
49
Reaction score
25
I know this is an old thread but I have a question, what PCV valve (part #) are you putting in place of the crank case breather fitting in the back left of the motor?
 

duderz7

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Messages
1,499
Reaction score
1,256
Location
Weiser, ID
I know this is an old thread but I have a question, what PCV valve (part #) are you putting in place of the crank case breather fitting in the back left of the motor?
It was an update that happened in 2007, so just look for the pcv for that year or later. Let me know if you still don't find it and I'll see what I can do.
 

Latest posts

Members online

Top