Do I have the parts correct for my lift kit and what is the difference between front and rear height

[KingKJ]

I'm getting ready to do my lift kit and I'm trying to make sure I have the right parts but I also have a question about how much lower the front is compared to the rear?

Parts list:
OME 790 (Front)
OME 948 (Rear)
Bilstein B6 4600 24-139168 (Front)
Bilstein B6 4600 24-139175 (Rear)
JBA UCAs
Iron Rock Offroad Rear Control Arms
NAPA Extended Travel CV's
Bump stops

I am planning on using a strut spacer to make it a 3 inch lift(I've been told the OME setup will only give 2 inches of lift) and I'm wondering what size strut spacer would I need for the front to give me 1 inch of lift and be level with the rear?
How many isolators would I need in the rear to make it 3 inch lift?

I am planning on doing my suspension work all at once while I do the lift kit(tie rod ends and sway bar links) and am curious about what other parts I could upgrade to give it better offroading(Front and Rear) while I'm working on it (LCAs, Sway bar Disconnects, ETC.)

 

[Shankster]

It's been a while since I did my (very similar) lift (2020, 8,000 miles ago). I think I got about 3" of lift on the OME springs but that was from a baseline of 20 year old worn out factory springs. At the time I suspected that OME under reported the lift you would get from their springs for liability (or maybe legal?) reasons. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable chimes in. My part numbers are not all the same as yours:

Parts list:
OME 790 (Front) - I have OME 2927
OME 948 (Rear) - I have OME 2948
Bilstein B6 4600 24-139168 (Front) - I have the same
Bilstein B6 4600 24-139175 (Rear) - I have 24-185240 for a Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 4x4
JBA UCAs - I used RRO UCAs
Iron Rock Offroad Rear Control Arms - I stayed with stock - no problems in 4 years
NAPA Extended Travel CV's - I stayed with stock - no problems in 4 years
Bump stops - I used generic urethane ones off eBay on the front and trailer bumper guards on the rear (most folks seem to use hockey pucks)

To try to level mine out (front ends up lower than the rear if you don't) I put 3ea 2" conduit nuts from Home Depot above the clevis on each side on the front. I just measured the vertical distance from center of wheel hub to outside edge of wheel arch lip and I have 22" on the front and 21-3/8 on the rear - I imagine there has been some settling and sagging of the springs since I first did it. In hindsight maybe I should have gone with 2 of the conduit nuts on each side.

 

[KingKJ]

It's been a while since I did my (very similar) lift (2020, 8,000 miles ago). I think I got about 3" of lift on the OME springs but that was from a baseline of 20 year old worn out factory springs. At the time I suspected that OME under reported the lift you would get from their springs for liability (or maybe legal?) reasons. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable chimes in. My part numbers are not all the same as yours:

Parts list:
OME 790 (Front) - I have OME 2927
OME 948 (Rear) - I have OME 2948
Bilstein B6 4600 24-139168 (Front) - I have the same
Bilstein B6 4600 24-139175 (Rear) - I have 24-185240 for a Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 4x4
JBA UCAs - I used RRO UCAs
Iron Rock Offroad Rear Control Arms - I stayed with stock - no problems in 4 years
NAPA Extended Travel CV's - I stayed with stock - no problems in 4 years
Bump stops - I used generic urethane ones off eBay on the front and trailer bumper guards on the rear (most folks seem to use hockey pucks)

To try to level mine out (front ends up lower than the rear if you don't) I put 3ea 2" conduit nuts from Home Depot above the clevis on each side on the front. I just measured the vertical distance from center of wheel hub to outside edge of wheel arch lip and I have 22" on the front and 21-3/8 on the rear - I imagine there has been some settling and sagging of the springs since I first did it. In hindsight maybe I should have gone with 2 of the conduit nuts on each side.

I see, I considered dropping the NAPA and IRO parts but because I am planning on putting the spacers to make it 3 inch lift I figured it would help keep everything in alignment with the larger lift, get more articulation, and not wear out parts as fast.

 

[KingKJ]

It's been a while since I did my (very similar) lift (2020, 8,000 miles ago). I think I got about 3" of lift on the OME springs but that was from a baseline of 20 year old worn out factory springs. At the time I suspected that OME under reported the lift you would get from their springs for liability (or maybe legal?) reasons. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable chimes in. My part numbers are not all the same as yours:

Parts list:
OME 790 (Front) - I have OME 2927
OME 948 (Rear) - I have OME 2948
Bilstein B6 4600 24-139168 (Front) - I have the same
Bilstein B6 4600 24-139175 (Rear) - I have 24-185240 for a Dodge Dakota Quad Cab 4x4
JBA UCAs - I used RRO UCAs
Iron Rock Offroad Rear Control Arms - I stayed with stock - no problems in 4 years
NAPA Extended Travel CV's - I stayed with stock - no problems in 4 years
Bump stops - I used generic urethane ones off eBay on the front and trailer bumper guards on the rear (most folks seem to use hockey pucks)

To try to level mine out (front ends up lower than the rear if you don't) I put 3ea 2" conduit nuts from Home Depot above the clevis on each side on the front. I just measured the vertical distance from center of wheel hub to outside edge of wheel arch lip and I have 22" on the front and 21-3/8 on the rear - I imagine there has been some settling and sagging of the springs since I first did it. In hindsight maybe I should have gone with 2 of the conduit nuts on each side.

also is there any real benefit to the UCAs from RRO because as of right now when I checked you buy a single RRO UCA for the price of a set of JBA UCAs, both have removable ball joins and greaseable parts, but RRO is 2x the price!

 

[Luke]

Ya… don’t fall for that 2” estimate by OME. I was easily over 3” with 927’s

 

[ikuo78]

I feel that 790 is too stiff for vehicles without a winch or steel bumper.
It looks like it's going to lift about 4 inches with the suspension remaining extended and barely moving.
I haven't actually experienced it, just my impressions from looking at the specs.

 

[KingKJ]

Ya… don’t fall for that 2” estimate by OME. I was easily over 3” with 927’s

I've been told by people on this forum that's the lift amount?

I feel that 790 is too stiff for vehicles without a winch or steel bumper.
It looks like it's going to lift about 4 inches with the suspension remaining extended and barely moving.
I haven't actually experienced it, just my impressions from looking at the specs.

I'm putting on a winch and steel bumper so that's why I'm going with the 790 so it should match the rear and I wont have to mess with coil spacers/isolators to level it?

 

[Shankster]

I see, I considered dropping the NAPA and IRO parts but because I am planning on putting the spacers to make it 3 inch lift I figured it would help keep everything in alignment with the larger lift, get more articulation, and not wear out parts as fast.

Maybe I'm missing something but I don't think the spacers will do any of those things. I'm intrigued by those longer CV axles but note that Rock Auto has them for cheaper and those who have tried them say the boots (outer I think) fail quickly so if you go that way you should look at replacement stretchy boots. Search on here and you'll find discussion about that.

 

[Shankster]

also is there any real benefit to the UCAs from RRO because as of right now when I checked you buy a single RRO UCA for the price of a set of JBA UCAs, both have removable ball joins and greaseable parts, but RRO is 2x the price!

No benefit to the RROs. Mine have been fine and I had no issues with the company but some on here don't like them. Go with the JBAs for sure.