Eh, I broke the KJ

[Marlon_JB2]

Well with every break comes a story right?

While loading some cargo into the KJ this morning, half asleep, I snagged the squiggly wire which leads to the defroster grid which is on the window.

The wire didn't come out of the connector, it's broken where it contacts the glass.

How the heck do I fix this???

Sister isn't too happy about it... please hurry.

 

[ridenby]

Bust the window tonight while she's sleeping,someone must have tried to break in??

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

solder it.

 

[Marlon_JB2]

It looks like some sort of adhesive though? I found a kit online... defogger repair kit. Would that work in this case?

 

[kb0nly]

If you mean you broke the tab off the pad on the window thats soldered on. Will take a good wattage iron and some rosin core solder. Heat up and flow a bit of fresh solder on the part on the window to get it fluxed and then do the same on the tab, hold tab with a needle nose pliers and then press it against spot on glass and heat with iron to flow them together...

I would suggest a 100w iron for that, its going to suck the heat away pretty fast as your trying to heat it up. A micro torch would work good too if the iron won't cut it.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

rosin core? no way, 63/37 lead solder

 

[JeepKj03]

I will tell you first hand to NOT solder it back on. I tried this with my grand am a few years back and it blew the back window out when I applied pressure to hold the clip on. The windows do not like the influence of heat and cold. I have used the glue that you can buy at the auto parts store and it WORKS. The key point is to make sure the connector is filed flat because the glue hardens in the absence of air.

 

[sleeve]

A buddy of mine has also successfully used the "defroster repair" glue with great success. From what he told me, the glue has copper in it to help reconnect the circuit.

 

[brucebotti]

rosin core? no way, 63/37 lead solder

You definitely want rosin core solder on anything electrical. Non rosin core solder has an acid core that is beneficial in soldering plumbing / heating pipes.
Bruce

 

[JeepJeepster]

Just go to advance and get a repair kit. Shouldnt be a real big deal to glue that back on.

 

[valvestem]

Just go to advance and get a repair kit. Shouldnt be a real big deal to glue that back on.

The repair kit is pricey be aware.

 

[kb0nly]

You definitely want rosin core solder on anything electrical. Non rosin core solder has an acid core that is beneficial in soldering plumbing / heating pipes.
Bruce

Exactly.... Regular plumbing solder is acid core and will leave a residue that will eat stuff away.

I did check a bit online today and most Advance Auto stores sells a conductive adhesive kit to glue it back on, but looking at mine this morning i would solder it.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

guess ThunderbirdJunkie had better go resolder all those decade-old connections on his RC cars that pull 50a+ through 14ga wire then.

 

[Opt]

Had the same thing happen to me over the summer. I tried the permatex stuff they sell at auto stores, but it just didn't work out for me because where the tab mounts to the window, it pulled off a small piece of the defroster grid with the tab. Ended up getting some conductive epoxy, and all has been well. Here's a link to the type of epoxy I used... http://www.frostfighter.com/prt2000.htm You can also get the same thing from MG Chemicals at places that sell things for prototyping circuit boards.

I've seen quite a few horror stories of ppl breaking the glass trying to solder it back on with a soldering iron.... not saying it can't be done, but I wasn't ready to take that chance. You might also check an auto glass shop to see if they can do it for you.

 

[kb0nly]

guess ThunderbirdJunkie had better go resolder all those decade-old connections on his RC cars that pull 50a+ through 14ga wire then.

50a through 14awg wire?? WTF TBJ you know better than that... And i have never heard of a RC car pulling that many amps, how did you measure or figure that?

Anyway, decades ago if you bought solder it was a lot different than it is now anyway, times have changed along with the formulations of the flux cores. The Acid core plumbers solder is a lot more agressive than it used to be, i have heard plumbers talk about leaving a roll of it in a tool box and if you dont fold over the end it slowly eats away everything that it touches.

The new rosin core stuff is awesome, water soluble flux, no special cleaners needed anymore. I also have lead free rosin core solder, takes a little getting used to in my opinion, and it doesnt always mix well with others if your doing a repair, but if your starting on a fresh project like putting components on a PCB then its not a big deal. They even stopped prepping solderable perf board with lead now, thats all lead free also.

As you can tell i know a lot about soldering, and i have the soldering and desoldering equipment to prove it. Next step is a hot air rework station for surface mount, already have a tweezers based hot iron station for doing that work.

 

[brucebotti]

guess ThunderbirdJunkie had better go resolder all those decade-old connections on his RC cars that pull 50a+ through 14ga wire then.

Good idea.....let us know when you're done...

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

50a through 14awg wire?? WTF TBJ you know better than that... And i have never heard of a RC car pulling that many amps, how did you measure or figure that?

Anyway, decades ago if you bought solder it was a lot different than it is now anyway, times have changed along with the formulations of the flux cores. The Acid core plumbers solder is a lot more agressive than it used to be, i have heard plumbers talk about leaving a roll of it in a tool box and if you dont fold over the end it slowly eats away everything that it touches.

The new rosin core stuff is awesome, water soluble flux, no special cleaners needed anymore. I also have lead free rosin core solder, takes a little getting used to in my opinion, and it doesnt always mix well with others if your doing a repair, but if your starting on a fresh project like putting components on a PCB then its not a big deal. They even stopped prepping solderable perf board with lead now, thats all lead free also.

As you can tell i know a lot about soldering, and i have the soldering and desoldering equipment to prove it. Next step is a hot air rework station for surface mount, already have a tweezers based hot iron station for doing that work.

ThunderbirdJunkie doesn't know much about soldering, aside from how to do it (since once it's done, he usually doesn't un-do it ) or figuring out electrical load, but other people that DO know how to figure that stuff out that are running similar setups are pulling an easy 50a (not continuous, usually burst, but that burst is every time you go WOT). His newest electric truck is pulling 100a+ (burst), according to those that know what they're talking about, all through 13ga with 4mm connectors, and nothing ever gets hot.

Anyway, 63/37 has always treated ThunderbirdJunkie well however, kb0nly seems to know what he's talking about, so listen to him

 

[AMPlibby06]

id use a flux capacitor

 

[kb0nly]

ThunderbirdJunkie doesn't know much about soldering, aside from how to do it (since once it's done, he usually doesn't un-do it ) or figuring out electrical load, but other people that DO know how to figure that stuff out that are running similar setups are pulling an easy 50a (not continuous, usually burst, but that burst is every time you go WOT). His newest electric truck is pulling 100a+ (burst), according to those that know what they're talking about, all through 13ga with 4mm connectors, and nothing ever gets hot.

Anyway, 63/37 has always treated ThunderbirdJunkie well however, kb0nly seems to know what he's talking about, so listen to him

Wow thats a lot of amps for a motor that small, what do you use for a battery?? I'm being serious here i'm curious now. I know guys into RC stuff but they run gas engines, not electric stuff, and the only ones i have seen in the local hobby shop are like 5 amp motors, or 5000 mah since some seem to rate it in milliamps instead.

With a 50a draw those little rechargeable battery packs must last like two minutes? Seems like a hell of a draw off such small batteries.

 

[kb0nly]

ThunderbirdJunkie doesn't know much about soldering, aside from how to do it (since once it's done, he usually doesn't un-do it ) or figuring out electrical load, but other people that DO know how to figure that stuff out that are running similar setups are pulling an easy 50a (not continuous, usually burst, but that burst is every time you go WOT). His newest electric truck is pulling 100a+ (burst), according to those that know what they're talking about, all through 13ga with 4mm connectors, and nothing ever gets hot.

Anyway, 63/37 has always treated ThunderbirdJunkie well however, kb0nly seems to know what he's talking about, so listen to him

And actually most 63/37 in stores IS Rosin Core, unless it was sold specifically as plumbers solder... Sure you can get 63/37 in acid core, but if you bough it at the hobby shop chances are they only carry Rosin Core anyway. Now if you bought it at Home Depot or something like that then they could have both.