engine leak

[uss2defiant]

yeah... absolutely I'm sure i would get help!!!
You guys rock, even on Xmas eve too!!!

We just bought a used Mazda 5 and the online support is horrible!!

I did pick up a loaner puller from autozone.

BTW, they just upgraded all their loaner tools to Powerbuilt tools. I think this means they would most likely have the correct ball joint removal/press tools.

I was pretty impressed by the master radiator pressure kit.

 

[uss2defiant]

looks like it leaked over night.
confirmed that it is ATF and not oil.

Is it easier to remove the pulley when the p/s unit is still bolted on or out?

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I'd take the pump out first.

 

[ltd02]

Same

 

[uss2defiant]

thanks for all the help guys.
I just finished torquing the high pressure line.
Torquing the pump to the motor at 35 ft-lbs was a nail bitter.

The leak was from the rear of the pump. Looks like the seal failed.
wasn't a mopar part.

Pulling and reinstalling the pulley wasn't too bad at all.

What's the best way to figure out how far to press the pulley in? I've eyeballed it the best i can.

Do i get a straight end and try to align it with the other pulleys?

Thanks!

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Did you look at how it was pressed on before? It *should* have been flush with the shaft, or at least mine was and that's how I set the new one up.

 

[ltd02]

Did you look at how it was pressed on before? It *should* have been flush with the shaft, or at least mine was and that's how I set the new one up.

Same here. My oe was flush and when I put the new one on it pretty much bottomed out and was flush. I always take my time and go slowly when doing that sort of stuff. I used a Dorman pulley on the new Cardone pump.

 

[uss2defiant]

yeah. mine was flushed too. thought maybe it might be a good idea to check the alignment

 

[uss2defiant]

all button up now.
thanks peeps!!!!!

 

[uss2defiant]

Soo..... It looks like it is a double whammy.

Now it is oil on the same spot and on the p/s pressure sensor. Did not smell like atf so it has to be boilers then. The high pressure side and the return hoses look clean.
I suppose that's why I see the black oil build up all around the area behind the P/S unit. It must have been leaking for some time and did not notice it until I saw the giant leak on the oil filter which smelled like oil innitially.

I think The p/s unit was leaking as it had atf at the back of the unit. Could smell it and slightly brown/red.

The plug seemed fine when I inspected and cleaned the area when the p/s pump was off.

Looks like it's most likely a leak from the plug then. I see no traces of fresh oil leak around the front of the driver side valve cover.

Is this a common leak area?

:/

How would one remove the plug?
I didn't see an obvious way to remove it.

Sorry, on the road now traveling, otherwise i would look up the family myself.

Thanks again.

 

[ltd02]

I don't think it's a common leak area. I'd assume it's the O-ring which you can get. You may be able to pry it out with a small screwdriver or pick. It's super easy to pop it out from the inside if you have the valve cover off.

Still wondering if you should ALSO remove and thread seal the oil sender then reinstall it just to be safe.

 

[uss2defiant]

Crud.
I don't want to remove the valve cover at all.

Is it a plastic plug + oring at the end?

I'll have to see how it looks like on the part fische.

I'll double check the pressure sender but it was dry when I checked it yesterday.
The new mopar oil pressure sender already had thread sealant on it.

 

[ltd02]

Crud.
I don't want to remove the valve cover at all.

Is it a plastic plug + oring at the end?

I'll have to see how it looks like on the part fische.

I'll double check the pressure sender but it was dry when I checked it yesterday.
The new mopar oil pressure sender already had thread sealant on it.

It is plastic, flat on the front, not really very thick except on the perimeter and the O-ring wasn't right on the edge. It is sort of hollow on the back but I think you can carefully pry it out alternating sides or working your way around it.

 

[tjkj2002]

Those plugs are access to the timing chain tensioner bolts.Real pain to remove even with access to the back of the plug.

 

[ltd02]

Those plugs are access to the timing chain tensioner bolts.Real pain to remove even with access to the back of the plug.

Have you ever seen a leak from that spot? I've had mine out afew times and never had a leak.

 

[tjkj2002]

Have you ever seen a leak from that spot? I've had mine out afew times and never had a leak.

Yes,all the time.You must replace that o-ring every time that plug is removed,and only use a oil resistant o-ring like the OE version.

This is a super common issue on honda's for a few years after they removed the distributor and put the same type of plug in it's place before redesigning the head without that hole.

 

[ltd02]

Yes,all the time.You must replace that o-ring every time that plug is removed,and only use a oil resistant o-ring like the OE version.

This is a super common issue on honda's for a few years after they removed the distributor and put the same type of plug in it's place before redesigning the head without that hole.

Good to know. Thanks!

 

[uss2defiant]

[repost]

 

[uss2defiant]

Any suggestions to verify that the leak is from the plug?

Maybe apply rtv around the plug to see if it stops the leak? If so then I would have found the culprit.

Is possible for me to DIY or should I bite the bullet and have the dealership/shop do it?
Still scratching my head on how to get it out without screwing something on the plug then tapping it out or using diy a custom puller.

Thanks

 

[ltd02]

Might be worth it to have someone else look at it. Shouldn't be any oil laying back there so seems like it would only leak when running. Maybe run it briefly with the belt off and pump out of the way to see if you can catch it. I'd definitely put a new O-ring on if you do pull the plug.