ESP/BAS ABS Skid Lights on steady

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Contemplator

New Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
British Columbia
I have a 2007 with 260,000 kilometers. Last spring I changed brake pads all around and new rotors in the front. Changed the front hubs and bearings last summer and the water pump in the fall. I have kept up with general maintenance pretty well.
I knew my rear pads were getting low again so i bought some and put them in the basement until i could get the time to change them. I went for a sales trip last week and drove about 400K on winter roads. When i got to my destination i shut her down for a re-fuel and when i started up again i had a chime and the ABS ESP/BAS and skid light came on. The cruise control was disabled and the traction control was NOT working. The problem corrected itself once but then came on again after an hour or so. So when i got back to town i changed the rear pads hoping that this would remedy the problem. I admit the rotors looked like they should be replaced but i didn't have the funds available. I replaced the pads, put it all back together and the lights were still on.
On my way home, i was doing about 80k down an icy stretch of road when the rear end broke away and i started to fishtail. First to the right, then hard to the left and then really hard to the right. I ended up hitting the ditch (with 3 feet of snow in it) with the passenger side and rolled it really good. It came to rest rubber side down, engine still running. I lost my driver side mirror and gas door. Tow truck pulled me out and i drove it home.
The damn warning lights are still on though. Any ideas on where to start looking? The pads were at about 5% when i changed them (I know, i should have done it sooner). Did i somehow damage the sensors or??
Any help would be appreciated.
And if anyone is wondering how much help that traction control gives you. It is a huge life saver. Literally!! I have cursed it hundreds of times for braking when i didn't want it to, but now i will be thanking it repeatedly whenever it kicks in. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

richar43

Full Access Member
Joined
May 1, 2010
Messages
141
Reaction score
3
Location
Upstate NY
I know the symptoms you are describing, you need to replace the clockspring inside the steering wheel. Mine had the same symptoms somewhat a few months ago, and I replaced the clockspring and it fixed it. The dealer cost is around 80.00, and they will insists that they need to install it due to the ABS & air bags go through the module. So here is what you do, disconnect the battery ( both sides ), remove the airbag relay or fuse, and let everything discharge. and remove the shroud from around the steering wheel. then use a steering wheel puller to apply tension to puller and whack the center of the puller with a hammer, and the steering wheel will pop off, trust me, after a hr or so, I figured this out. Once that is removed, just unplug the 2 plugs, and slide the module off. then install new one, and plug in plugs, and go in the reverse order. after you connect the battery let it sit for a few minutes to charge everything up, then turn the ign. to on, and allow it to fully charge, then start, and you are all good.
Hope this helps.
 

richar43

Full Access Member
Joined
May 1, 2010
Messages
141
Reaction score
3
Location
Upstate NY
with mine just the esp/bas and the traction control light was on, and I did not have the ABS light on. what I did pertaining to the ABS, was I did a OHMS resistance at each sensor, and then through the harness as well, that connects to the back of the jeep. this plug can be found under the rear passenger seat, the front little hump section. Here is a link on how to test this....
http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/abstest.htm
I also read that in some cases it is the right rear sensor that acts up, plus you can unbolt them and clean the sensors themselves as well.
 

rekab69

New Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Suffolk Uk
Hi,
I had a simular fault, my wife drove a mile or so with the hand brake on. Guess the rear brakes ran hot for a while turned out to be a rear wheel speed sensor..

Good luck..
 

Atrus

Full Access Member
Joined
May 15, 2007
Messages
4,400
Reaction score
13
Location
Metro Detroit, MI
WAIT!!!!! Don't go replacing the clock spring...

I had the same issue on my 2007. It was the result of a crap piece of wire going to the passenger rear ABS sensor. Others (on LOST) have had this issue as well. I have a bunch of pics and wanted to write up a "how-to" but never have yet. Apparently, the wire isn't that high quality, and can break - the outer insulation will look fine, but you'll lose connectivity to the sensor.

I ended up getting a new connector from Chrysler for $14 or so. I then re-ran the wire from the passenger rear wheel up into the cabin, so my splice wouldn't be subject to weather and salt. The harness comes in right under the rear seat.

A couple hours time and <$20 and it was fixed.
 

new jeep owner

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2010
Messages
182
Reaction score
1
Location
New Brunswick Canada
I had an abs sensor go bad on my 2006 and had the same symptoms you described.

as richar43 said an ohm resistance test will tellyou if you have a bad sensor.
 

richar43

Full Access Member
Joined
May 1, 2010
Messages
141
Reaction score
3
Location
Upstate NY
I was just informing him of what I found out. I tested all the wires ect. and that pointed me toward the clockspring, so as other suggested I would check all the sensors, and the wires as stated by Atrus, and you may be lucky and it is a wire or sensor, but in case it isn't look toward the clockspring. I was providing info out to him, to help him, due to I went through all of this back in sept.,
 

eyehatetofu

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2009
Messages
2,453
Reaction score
0
Location
Buckeye, AZ
I had the same issue on my '06. Front ABS sensor wire was ruined causing all the lights on the dash. Check your sensor wires. Mine was visibly ruined so it was easy to troubleshoot.
 

speedracerbubba

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2009
Messages
720
Reaction score
1
Location
408
I have a sensor for the front at home. I believe it is the drivers side. I had to replace it but then I found out my hub needed replacing and it came with a sensor. if you need it just pay shipping plus a couple bucks (small flat rate box)

Sent from my PG86100 using Tapatalk
 

Contemplator

New Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
British Columbia
Thanks for all the support. I am putting it up on the hoist this weekend. I'm driving in 4 wheel until then. Trying to keep the rubber on the ground. I will update here when i figure it out.
 

Atrus

Full Access Member
Joined
May 15, 2007
Messages
4,400
Reaction score
13
Location
Metro Detroit, MI
Glad to hear. I have a bunch of pics somewhere and meant to do a how-to. Maybe I'll find time this week to write one up. It'd be good to have out there, as common as this seems to be.
 

hairylizard

New Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2012
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Location
PA
I'm not a handy woman and this is all crazy to me. I'm having the same problem. Seems like there should be a recall for this and the rear window assembly. Never the less I do love my jeep and I'm dealing with it. Both of my rear sensors were replaced and the wire but I still have the lights. The computer codes are erratic. My mechanic gave up and said take it to the dealer. $100 just for them to look. Another thread suggests diff oil change. I asked the previous owner and he was told by a dealer that you can't change the oil. I'm going to have that done tomorrow. I don't trust dealers because they won't let me watch while they work on my vehicle and I have been burned before. I'm frustrated.
 

Latest posts

Members online

Top