First post suspension related .... and a question.

[**OZ**]

An introduction: 2002 “Pre-lowered” manual transmission Liberty sport 4x4 sagged down to 17.5” front 18.5” rear. All stock zero modifications.

So after many hours of reading I settled on a configuration that will hopefully work for me. I know everyone here swears by OME products but the cost was substantially more in Canada.

-Front And Rear H&R adventure springs 1.5” Lift
-Front Bilstein
-Rear KYB Gas-A-adjust (Dodge Dakota length)
-Hockey Puck rear bump stops (x2 per)
-Still looking for more info on front bump-stops (available locally)

-I will be “tweaking” the height with, custom rear spacer pucks nestled between two factory upper isolators. Probably 3/4”. This I will machine out of a product called King Starboard.
The front I will be cutting out a set of aluminum 1/4” over the top spacer plates with my new plasma/cnc table. Anyone willing to share the plate file ?
I will reserve the Clevis lift to adjust and even to rear.

Now here is the Question: I found a additional spacer in the factory front suspension. I need verification if this is a factory “Easter Egg” or meant to be there.
In-between the upper spring isolator and top shock mount is a 1/4” thick steel round plate. This spaces the isolator away from the upper mount. Was this where “Pre-Lowered” gets the extra 1/2”-3/4” ?

I cannot find this spacer in any parts diagrams. I am 99% sure this is factory original and never been a part before. Any input ?

 

[tommudd]

There is NO factory easter egg
and with you wanting to machine your own parts, tweaking, etc, staying away from this one
and the dodge dakota 4x4 club cab may be too long for those springs but then whatever you are doing they may work
Not a fan of the H&R springs so never mess with them after some bad experiences
Teraflex front bumpstops for a Jeep Liberty
The ones built up to April 12, 2002 used taller springs ( 3/4 inch higher ) so no what you found is not where the extra height came from

 

[**OZ**]

Please share your bad experiences. I am open to suggestions. As far as custom machining parts. I have that side of things more than covered. I am trying to source the front bump stops locally. Here are a few pictures of these rings, have you seen them before ?

 

[tommudd]

I would only use the regular upper isolaters in the rear
They are wider, would fit better and will not move around

 

[**OZ**]

These rings where found in the FRONT suspension when the factory coil over was taken apart. They where compressed between the upper isolator and the mount. All factory parts. The rear is unrelated to these photos.

The rear isolator adapter will be machined to fit between two factory rubber isolators. There will only be the flex of the rubber. I am aiming for a total of 2.5 inch lift overall from “factory” height. Unfortunately I have no idea what factory height is ... consensus is 19.0” ? (Currently 17.5” front) I would like to be 21-21.5 when completed on the progressively wound springs.

At “only” 2.5” over stock height will the longer rear shocks be damaged ? I have added 2” of bump stop in the rear.

 

[tommudd]

Some one installed them they are NOT stock
Stock is 19, not a consensus, fact

Also adding a " spacer " of any kind to the rear over 1/2 inch it will not stay in place
You can add ( 2 extra ) 1/2 inch isolaters, but not one extra and a 3/4 inch " spacer "
just not enough room to stay in there

 

[tommudd]

..............................zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz................................

 

[tommudd]

**OZ** MIA

 

[jeeptorino68]

An introduction: 2002 “Pre-lowered” manual transmission Liberty sport 4x4 sagged down to 17.5” front 18.5” rear. All stock zero modifications.

So after many hours of reading I settled on a configuration that will hopefully work for me. I know everyone here swears by OME products but the cost was substantially more in Canada.

-Front And Rear H&R adventure springs 1.5” Lift
-Front Bilstein
-Rear KYB Gas-A-adjust (Dodge Dakota length)
-Hockey Puck rear bump stops (x2 per)
-Still looking for more info on front bump-stops (available locally)

-I will be “tweaking” the height with, custom rear spacer pucks nestled between two factory upper isolators. Probably 3/4”. This I will machine out of a product called King Starboard.
The front I will be cutting out a set of aluminum 1/4” over the top spacer plates with my new plasma/cnc table. Anyone willing to share the plate file ?
I will reserve the Clevis lift to adjust and even to rear.

Now here is the Question: I found a additional spacer in the factory front suspension. I need verification if this is a factory “Easter Egg” or meant to be there.
In-between the upper spring isolator and top shock mount is a 1/4” thick steel round plate. This spaces the isolator away from the upper mount. Was this where “Pre-Lowered” gets the extra 1/2”-3/4” ?

I cannot find this spacer in any parts diagrams. I am 99% sure this is factory original and never been a part before. Any input ?

I have the file for a top plate spacer if you want to pm me your email address

 

[**OZ**]

Thank you for sharing the file.

Unfortunately this is my busiest time of the year, so slow progress and large family to balance....

So a quick update:

Changed most fluids:
-Motor oil/filter 5w-30 Synthetic and Baldwin filter
-Front Diff w/Dino
-Rear Diff w/Dino and modifier. Rear diff is a mess. Full of metallic particles and sludge. Will need a full redo. Cleaned out for now.
-Transfer case w/ATF+4
-Manual Transmission w/Royal Purple Synchromax.
-Cooling system flush w/new Mopar fluid. Will need to address a leaking radiator I discovered after.

All back together and back on the ground. Still waiting for new tires so have a few questions there.

Unsettled height / no alignment measured hub to bottom of flair:

Rear: 22.5”

H&R springs, 3/4” spacer and a extra upper isolator. Originally started at 1” spacer but milled down to 3/4”. Spring is still fully engaged. This is the absolute maximum I could do. With suspension at full drop, there is still spring tension holding it in the mount. Used a solid rubber material instead of the plastic I started with. Think “large Hockey Puck” with a hole in it. KYB Gas adjust shocks.

Front: 21.75”

H&R Springs, 3/8” upper plate w/New studs in upper shock mount. I re-used the mystery spacer ring between the mount and upper isolator. Bilstein shocks. No Clevis lift yet.... but just enough to match rear in reserve. Assuming how much everything settles. Probably more than one alignment.

Will just see how this all settles before adding front lift. I am assuming approx 100lbs. of cargo in rear before I bring front up on clevis lift. For now on some old snow tires until I sort new rubber.

 

[**OZ**]

Also pounded the pinch welds flat to make sure rubbing will be less of an issue.

 

[tommudd]

You'll lose about / close to 1/2 inch with first alignment

love the wheels , wish I could find some like that with 4 inch backspacing 7 inches wide

Only way to fully know is to first get it aligned, then mount one tire on the wheel and try it on front.
Turning it, bouncing on it etc on all angles

 

[**OZ**]

A minor update. It has been about 2 months. Front end alignment was a disaster. Cannot seem to get passenger side camber correct or castor (very close though) Assuming something is bent at this point. Going to go to another shop that will put some more effort into it.

I levelled the front to 22” (Clevis at 1/4”) and the rear has unfortunately “settled” to 21.75” and 22” it may sound equal but I put approx 100 lbs of equipment and 2 kids in the back seat. Will probably modify my spacer arrangement for a additional .5”

So far I have gone off-road along some tame FSR and today tackled a heavier trail with a few creek crossing and heavy elevation changes. Roads here have a lot of sharp gravel and large rocks. Unfortunately my tire choice is holding me back. Although no problems so far I am paranoid of punctures running my Goodyear Kevlar AT, they are only P rated and not LT. Will update to something more heavy duty. On the road the car is very tame. Body roll is minimal but I believe my rear control arms are shot. Removed rear sway bar and had to put back on due to “floatiness” at speed. Next project along with slightly taller rear spacers. All in all not a bad setup. Fixed my AC today with a new clutch on the compressor and modified my rear tire holder to allow the rear glass to open. Really enjoying my project. Lots of good advice here. Reading a lot in the background. For now I may just carry a second spare as I venture further up the trails.

 

[tommudd]

On the 04 I ran way over 100,000 miles at over 4 inches of lift and no issues ( with JBA UCAs )
and no sway bar in the rear, never any “floatiness”
Some of your issues with “floatiness” is your choice of the rear suspension I would guess if you brought it to me
First thing I would do is set it up better and then test if I had it here
Bring the front back down some due to not having the correct upper control arms from JBA to make it was easier to align

 

[Doing10to20]

The floatiness might be rear control arms most likely cuz the rear sway bar doenst really do anything.does your jeep dip at all in the rear when you brake? It will also feel floaty at speeds...look into some WJ Rear lower control arms from CORE4X4 they worked well for me

 

[**OZ**]

Yes the rear trailing arms are completely shot. As soon as the bar went back on the car handles very well. The “floatiness” is gone. I have read a few times here that is a common problem. Being that is instantly goes away, there is no doubt that is the issue. The front alignment is due to a lower control I can see signs of a impact from before I did the lift. Alignment shop says it could also be a knuckle. I have ordered a new control arm for the front and new trailing arms for the rear (Moog) seems better than all the other aftermarket equipment?. These H&R springs seem to be very up to the task of soft roading/ light off-roading and comfortable daily driving. Progressive spring rate and all. The Bilstein are also a excellent shock absorber. And yes a set of JBA arms are in the future as everyone touts them as a absolute requirement they will be my next large purchase along with a new 4:10 gear set. Aside from shot rear control arms everything handles very well.