incommando
Banned
His diff is pre-drained...
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Blew mine with a Detroit True Trac in the front and a collar on.
Yes, you can drive whithout the front kardan and driveshafts. I know, because I did...
http://jeepetorp.blogg.se/2008/december/rosersberg-2712-08.html
The intresting thing is that there where no change in fuel consumtion...
You will get sticker shock that makes my parts list for SFA seem like like chump change to make one steel/cast version of the D30A and have all the machining done.Already looked into and the 1st one(prototype) would run about $30,000 or so,if you ordered 1000 units it would drop that 1000 units(not the 1st one though,that is needed to made the mold) to around $2000 each after machining is done.Oh and all of those prices where from about 2 years ago and also looked into cutting down a reagular D30 solid axle to work but that would be alot of money also since some custom made parts will be needed and will not be cheap.I'm trying to get the housing that is broken (above) from NCjeepin to see if someone can fab a steel one (I'll even try myself). Worth a shot... I don't really need an SFA in the Libby. I plan on getting a Wrangler this winter when the prices drop. But I'd like to have that aluminum diff out of there.
A DTT or a ARB does a better job while not frying your brakes in the process.I guess his Jeep does not have ESP/BAS? I guess I should not have to worry about this happening to me, with ESP/BAS - it won't allow one wheel to spin anyway; it will apply the brake to that wheel automatically.
I'd rather bust a front diff then loose my brakes from being overheated,brakes are a little more important then a front diff when going down some pretty steep downhill sections where not having good brakes would mean you'd be at the bottom of a ravine dead.I would rather burn brakes than a Diff housing. I think brake pads are much, MUCH easier and less expensive to install...
When it malfunctions though, it *****, which has happened so me. Dunno why, was weight in the vehicle, BAS kept putting on the brakes driving, then I would have to turn it off, then it would Error out. After unloading all the cargo and people? Was fine, aand still is... Got to have been the clock spring angle sensor with a false reading due to the weight inside the jeep.
I'd rather bust a front diff then loose my brakes from being overheated,brakes are a little more important then a front diff when going down some pretty steep downhill sections where not having good brakes would mean you'd be at the bottom of a ravine dead.
Well you must never leave the mall parking lot but when I wheel one of my front tires lifts off the ground at least once every few minutes,that's alot of braking action which heats up the brakes pretty fast and they really do not cool down that much when traveling 2mph.JK guys have had some big issues with ESP and traction control overheating there brakes and having major brake fade.Also if your wheels are not turning no forward progression is happening.Install a ARB and one flip of a switch and no brakes needed to keep that one airborn wheel from free wheeling and causing a shock load and still have plenty of brakes to safely make it home.Just because you have one of those techno gizmo's does not compensate for driving ability and a good locker.Oh and you never know when you will have a nice downhill descent after overheating your brakes from ESP/traction control activating to much.I don't drive by any ravines, so I'm pretty safe...
Besides, we're talking about one tire being up, then coming down, catching, and splitting the diff. With BAS, that won't happen, the tire that's up off the ground would already be stopped by the brake (single, not PLURAL). I don't know WHERE the overheating comes from, the guy posted about what happened with ONE tire, then BOOM. So, one side overheats? It wasn't up in the air long enough was it? We were not talking about going down a hill, and getting killed in a ravine; so you made that up yourself, and don't know WHY you made up a scenario that is not the subject...
It was about "the shock of getting one wheel airborne and then back down and gripping while still under load" right? You took it somewhere totally off base, like going down a hill, when that was not what this was about. You changed the conditions, and well, that was not the condition...
So, again, with BAS, that would not happen, the shock of that wheel coming down under load. No hill or ravine in the original posters subject...
Well you can't use a aussie in the D30A,the DTT is way better anyways even though it is only a LSD.Yeah I have ESP and I replaced my first set of rear brakes at 41K. My front brakes are still fine. Might have something to due with the KJ spending it's first 30K with the ST's in WASHINGTON keeping the ESP freaking the heck out. Troy, in your opinion is the Aussie locker better than ESP for the time being. I was thinking about trading or selling my D30 DTT to get one.