front axle pieces parts

[XWrench3]

so a little while ago, I determined that my front cv axle and intermediate shaft have worn far enough, that I am going to have to replace them. so I was looking at the parts diagram for my Lib, and noticed that there are either bearings and or bushings (the parts manual calls them both in a different place on the page) that I assume will need to be replaced at the same time. and they list a tag number with the appropriate parts "tag" that I would have to think is a tag on the front axle someplace. so my question is where would the tag be on the axle? and if its no longer there, then what!? also, what do these bearings/bushings use for lubrication? I want to order parts before I rip and tear into it to minimize down time.

 

[cindysjeep]

I just replaced both my front half axles (with cv joints) on a 2006 Liberty CRD.
I didn't replace any bearings or bushings when I did the job. I didn't look inside the differential, but on the outboard end (at the rotors), the only bearing I noticed was in the hub, which is a replaceable as a unit. Mine hubs seemed fine and there was no leakage from the differential, so I just changed out the axles. The half shafts are different for the CRD and 3.7L. Here's a link to RockAutos driveline parts for the 3.7L. Here's a link to the wheel bearing and hub. They sell just the wheel bearing separately, but you probably have to press it in and change out the seals as well. I haven't looked in my manual, but I assume the wheel bearings would take regular wheel bearing grease. I'd probably use a NGLI #2 synthetic grease. I'm not a very knowledgible mechanic on Libertys so maybe someone else will correct me on any misinformation.

Also, the right side half axle shaft came out along with the intermediate shaft. Some say to replace the intermediate shaft at the same time. My IS splines were in good shape and tight, so I cleaned it, regreased it and replaced the broken oring that helps keep water out of the splines. I think the oring was a #29 size oring I got from a plumbing parts section of a local hardware store. There are some good Youtube videos on the process. It wasn't that difficult.

I used the GSP half axles from Rock Auto. They seemed ok. They included a new spindle nut without a washer, I reused my old spindle nut that had an attached large washer. I've only driven the Liberty 20 miles since the install, so I have no idea if the axles will last or not.

 

[duderz7]

I believe CRD wheelbearings are the same as gassers. Replacement is the way to go, they are not rebuildable. 3 E14 bolts on back along with the axle nut and brake rotor. No press needed usually a couple whacks with a mini sledge at the wheel mounting ****** will knock them loose.

 

[duderz7]

F l a n g e is the dirty word

 

[XWrench3]

well, I FINALLY HAD TO adress this situation. the vibratoin even at low speed have gotten bad enough to force me into action. I have the front end torn apart. and what I am seeing makes me really scratch my head wondering what the heck is going on. the intermediate shaft has something similar to rust stains where the bearing (which is actually a plastic bushing) would be. the shaft has a small amount of gear lube all over it, which makes me wonder if that was done at the factory to prevent rust and or lubrication for the splines, or if this area is supposed to be dry, then i may have leaking seals in the differential? I have read here that the plastic bushing is normal for my year. in which case makes me wonder if that bushing is THE bad part, and the axles are salvageable. I can not find a measurement of the "bearing" part of the intermediate shaft. and i would really like to measure it. the splines seemed pretty tight, I had to drive the 2 shafts (cv shaft & intermediate) apart with a Big Lead Hammer with my buddies help (me pulling on the cv shaft with the intermediate shaft clamped in a vice). I saw on a different post that he had an o ring on one of the shafts, but I did not find any O-rings. is there supposed to be one? and if so, where should it be? I have hundreds of O-rings, if there is supposed to be one, i will likely have one in my o-ring box. the seal looked to be doing its job, as there wasn't any dirt on anything inside. but I will replace it along with swapping the bushing for a bearing. my plan is to replace the bearing and seal, then slide the axles back in and see how much play there is between the shafts and bearing. if there is only a few thousandths, I am going to run it. but if there is still an appreciable amount of play, then I will have to order shafts.

 

[Deb'nKJ]

Well, either you're over-thinking this - or I am so naïve, as to be bordering on stupid.

I got plenty of warning of a failing CVJ, the usual ticking on lock, found a used one* from a reputable source, pulled out the old one (complete with intermediate shaft) stuck in the new one (also complete with intermediate shaft), which lead to a certain amount of ridicule right here for not even realising there was an intermediate shaft. Job done!
Hubs/wheel bearings are a completely separate issue & while it's an obvious time to check them, it's not a "might as well replace it while we're at it" scenario, especially given the price of quality (i.e Timken or SKF) parts.

* so much easier, & probably cheaper, than replacing the CVJ

 

[tommudd]

ORDER NEW CV AND INTERMEDIATE SHAFT NOW
You do not want to mess up the new bearings
CV from NAPA, remanned one, take old one in for a trade in

 

[tommudd]

che

Well, either you're over-thinking this - or I am so naïve, as to be bordering on stupid.

I got plenty of warning of a failing CVJ, the usual ticking on lock, found a used one* from a reputable source, pulled out the old one (complete with intermediate shaft) stuck in the new one (also complete with intermediate shaft), which lead to a certain amount of ridicule right here for not even realising there was an intermediate shaft. Job done!
Hubs/wheel bearings are a completely separate issue & while it's an obvious time to check them, it's not a "might as well replace it while we're at it" scenario, especially given the price of quality (i.e Timken or SKF) parts.

* so much easier, & probably cheaper, than replacing the CVJ

cheaper ? If you feel like gambling maybe
I have a ton of CVs and Intermediate shafts here , would never use them again

 

[duderz7]

I agree with replacing intermediate shaft and cv axle, they are known wear items. I was only able to get the cv axle from napa sent directly to my house. Remans are no longer in store, but I was able to take my core into the local store. As far as gear lube on intermediate shaft, that's expected as it's lubricated all the way to the seal is from the diff. I suggest replacing the plastic bushing/bearing with the actual bearing from an earlier kj.

 

[XWrench3]

I replaced that stupid plastic bushing with an actual bearing and a new seal. the intermediate shaft now has just over .001" of up and down movement. compared to having so much play I could feel the clunking of the shat hitting the bushing. today I am going to install the cv axle onto the intermediate shaft and into the wheel bearing just for the purpose of measuring how much play is in the splines, and while I am at it, I will also measure the movement of the cv axle going thru the wheel bearing. I could not find any information on how much if any hypoid gear oil to put in the intermediate shaft area. since the axle is a bit higher on the passenger side than on the drivers side ( just how i raised the vehicle and installed the jack stands) i put enough oil to splash around the inboard spline and coupling. that, along with greasing the splines and bearing should keep these parts from damage. I know and understand what the majority of you guys are talking about when the splines wear out to the point of wobbling. and if these parts fail to pass the inspection I will be doing, I will replace both axle parts. I just can not afford to replace parts that may not need it. everything I have done so far, i would be doing anyway if I was to replace both axle shafts. trust me, doing this work hurts me so bad ( I have chronic severe pain radiating from 3 places in my degenerative spine ) that I DO NOT want to do it a second time any time soon.

 

[duderz7]

A proper fluid level in the front differential will also lube intermediate shaft bearing, they share the same housing with no internal seals.

 

[Deb'nKJ]

cheaper ? If you feel like gambling maybe
I have a ton of CVs and Intermediate shafts here , would never use them again

Of course any s/h part is a gamble, but no more so than a s/h vehicle.

If I'm unlucky (& I think the KJ's worth spending my time, money & effort on) at least I've got the original to rebuild/have rebuilt.

 

[tommudd]

I agree with replacing intermediate shaft and cv axle, they are known wear items. I was only able to get the cv axle from napa sent directly to my house. Remans are no longer in store, but I was able to take my core into the local store. As far as gear lube on intermediate shaft, that's expected as it's lubricated all the way to the seal is from the diff. I suggest replacing the plastic bushing/bearing with the actual bearing from an earlier kj.

Your NAPA does not stock or can get ?
Interesting
I went to local NAPA , told them what I wanted and had it next day
This was just last week for a customers ride but no issues

 

[tommudd]

well

Of course any s/h part is a gamble, but no more so than a s/h vehicle.

If I'm unlucky (& I think the KJ's worth spending my time, money & effort on) at least I've got the original to rebuild/have rebuilt.

if you dont care then nothing wasted, nothing gained

 

[duderz7]

Your NAPA does not stock or can get ?
Interesting
I went to local NAPA , told them what I wanted and had it next day
This was just last week for a customers ride but no issues

I can't remember the particulars now, but if I wanted the reman it was going to cost an obscene amount for shipping ($40-60), but it was free shipping to my house if ordered from their website.

 

[Deb'nKJ]

As you say it

well

if you dont care then nothing wasted, nothing gained

As you say it's a gamble (as, so too was the diff) &, obviously, I hope I win

Of course, buying the KJ was a gamble, after all, I might not like it - & I'm still undecided, & likely to remain so while I still can't use it.