Front axle seal

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cecil3030

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Back in October I replaced the cv axles in the front of my liberty. Shortly after the driver side axle seal started leaking. Fast foward to last week. I replaced all my ball joints and while I had it tore down I put a new axle seal on it. But it is still leaking. Any ideas on what's going wrong?

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krisP

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Back in October I replaced the cv axles in the front of my liberty. Shortly after the driver side axle seal started leaking. Fast foward to late week. I replaced all my ball joints and while I had it tore down I put a new axle seal on it. But it is still leaking. Any ideas on what's going wrong?

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seals installed wrong...wrong seals....damaged seals when reinstalling cv/prop shaft....gouge in housing. Could be a lot of things.

Just need to make sure they are fully seated in there...they can be a pain...and not damaged upon reinstall as they are easily damaged that way
 

jeeptorino68

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Never hurts to put a bit of rtv on the outside of the deal when installing in the housing...
 

cecil3030

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Never hurts to put a bit of rtv on the outside of the deal when installing in the housing...
I suggested that to my dad when we was doing it and he advised against it. I figured that it couldn't hurt.

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J33Pfan

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Back in October I replaced the cv axles in the front of my liberty. Shortly after the driver side axle seal started leaking. Fast foward to last week. I replaced all my ball joints and while I had it tore down I put a new axle seal on it. But it is still leaking. Any ideas on what's going wrong?

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what brand seal di you use?

is it leaking against the shaft or the housing?
 

cecil3030

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I got them both from orileys

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JeepinJarhead03

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the original seals from the factory were installed with orange rtv, not grease as recommended by the manual during replacement

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quick question though
how overfilled is the front diff. if any ?

if they're the correct seals, they shouldn't leak , whether you install them dry, with rtv, or with high temp grease
 

cecil3030

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Is that the right seal for our liberties? Because mine didn't look like that. It didn't have the silver part protruding front the front of it. And what is that tool in the pic? A seal puller?

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JeepinJarhead03

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that silver part is the inner bearing, my apologies for not elaborating, was just showing a stock seal that had been rtv'ed from the factory

the tool is a pinion bearing puller which is the right size to reach in and grab the inner axle bearing - in /ThEoRy/ if you're replacing the inner bearing AND the seal, you can snatch them out at the same time. Given. its not a theory that works all the time considering the factory use of orange RTV on the seals. Somewhere between 40-60% of the ones ive pulled successfully came out together.. the other 40-60% didn't and the bearing came out and left the seal in place. particularly on the passenger side on these vehicles its nice when they come out together, it saves a bit of monkeying around. the drivers sides much easier to deal with considering you can run a chisel or what have you right up about 1/2 the circumference of the seal and it just pops out.
Personally i hate seal picks, ill use a chisel or dog tag seal puller 99% of the time versus a seal removal pick..axe.

which is neither here nor there i was just chiming in regarding the use of rtvs on the seals. on this specific, application, with the specific intended seal, the reinstall manual says to use grease, or, high temp rtv. either way i've done it, ive never had them leak. my guess with this specific application, with the surface cleaned and dry, and the correct seal, you could put it in with nothing at all and it wont leak a drop for atleast 60k

as for the OP's seals, if they're seated fully, they should be bone dry, unless theyre the wrong seals or were missing the inner seal steel springband , which i have seen happen on occasion
 

krisP

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also the bearings after 03 are plastic notmetal
 

JeepinJarhead03

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yeah, there's nothing inherently wrong with that bushing/bearing , it's used in the command trac II as well. it requires less lubrication. that outer bearing doesn't "bear" a great deal of weight. i've pulled metal ones from 2005 KJ's though, so it may be a crapshoot up to around 2005 as to whether they're #05066056AA (metal) or #05066056AB (nylon/abs)

there's a trap groove in the shaft housing that's supposed to assist with leading oil to the bearing and i suppose with contaminant buildup or whatever or low oil levels AA wasn't performing like they wanted. The odd part about it, is AB is about 4 dollars more than AA. But i've seen AA come out of 07-08 dodge nitros. So i don't know if it was just an availability thing or what.
 

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