Front wheel noise... rattling?

[tinyhousevt]

With the weather getting nicer, I'm driving around a lot more with the windows rolled down; which means it's harder to ignore the scary noise I've been ignoring for a bit now...

I tried to get a recording of the noise but it's really only audible from the exterior of the car, or when the windows are rolled down. My initial instinct on hearing it was that something was rubbing up against the rotors. It's a very light, metal on metal sort of scraping noise? Not a clunk, and not a grinding noise. I would say it sounds like a bearing gone bad but it's the same sound from both left and right side. Noticeable at any speed above 30 mph or so. The pitch and frequency of the rattle doesn't seem to change a whole lot based on speed. It doesn't appear to be affected by the brakes- light pressure doesn't change the pitch or volume or anything, and the brakes feel uniform and solid all the way down. From various youtube videos I don't think it sounds anything like a loose heat shield or like a bad ball joint. It's not brought on or exacerbated by going over a bump, but I don't know enough about suspension pieces to truly say it's not something like that.
My gut says it's something related to the front axle (CV axle perhaps?) or wheel hubs. I frankly don't know how I would start diagnosing something like that without taking stuff apart willy-nilly.

 

[lfhoward]

I’d be willing to bet this is your noise:

https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/how-to-change-front-driveshaft-change-a-driveshaft-head.47161/

Easy DIY fix for under $50

 

[tommudd]

Very easy to check the front driveshaft
Just look at the rear section of the driveshaft
Should be a rubber boot on there, if torn or missing its bad
and it will make a sort of metal grinding type noise when really bad
Start there

 

[MarksmanAkula]

Can confirm, I had a real hellish metal on metal grinding right under my seat. Sure enough it was the front driveshaft boot that bolts up to the Tcase. Took longer to unbolt the shaft than it did to rebuild the one end. Seriously easy job for a beginner even, jus get a pair of snap ring pliers.

 

[tinyhousevt]

Thanks for the responses all. The snow is mostly gone from the driveway so I'll be able to get underneath and take a better look soon.
The issue being the driveshaft makes a lot of sense, seeing as the noise doesn't seem to affect my driving, but I know there's a more aggressive clunking noise when I put it in 4WD.
I saw on other threads but wanted to confirm- if I take off the driveshaft but can't get the repair done in one day, I can drive in 2WD without the driveshaft installed, correct?

 

[lfhoward]

Correct. You can drive it without a front driveshaft.

If you remove it and test drive and the noise goes away, you know you’ve got the right diagnosis.

 

[MarksmanAkula]

Thanks for the responses all. The snow is mostly gone from the driveway so I'll be able to get underneath and take a better look soon.
The issue being the driveshaft makes a lot of sense, seeing as the noise doesn't seem to affect my driving, but I know there's a more aggressive clunking noise when I put it in 4WD.
I saw on other threads but wanted to confirm- if I take off the driveshaft but can't get the repair done in one day, I can drive in 2WD without the driveshaft installed, correct?

Yes. I removed mine this past summer to rebuild it, and it sat on the workbench for months because I was lazy. Can drive around just fine without it.

 

[tinyhousevt]

You must be registered for see images attach

I am pleased to report that the driveshaft has been removed and the noise.. is gone! Pictured above is the T-case end of the shaft, which covered my face with rust when I finally yanked it out. The boot looks good on the diff side, but it might be worth my time to rebuild both ends before sticking it back on.

I imagine the exact underside configuration differs throughout the years, but on the '07 it was a real pain in the rear to get to all the bolts. Maybe having all four wheels off the ground allows you to rotate this shaft freely but most of my time was spent trying to crack the top two bolts on the T-case side and the topmost one on the diff side, trying different configurations of socket extensions so that I had enough space to fit a wrench up in between the exhaust manifold and the fuel lines.

Once I freed up the diff end up with a 3# sledge and a dull chisel it only took a few taps to free up the rear.

 

[MarksmanAkula]

You must be registered for see images attach

I am pleased to report that the driveshaft has been removed and the noise.. is gone! Pictured above is the T-case end of the shaft, which covered my face with rust when I finally yanked it out. The boot looks good on the diff side, but it might be worth my time to rebuild both ends before sticking it back on.

I imagine the exact underside configuration differs throughout the years, but on the '07 it was a real pain in the rear to get to all the bolts. Maybe having all four wheels off the ground allows you to rotate this shaft freely but most of my time was spent trying to crack the top two bolts on the T-case side and the topmost one on the diff side, trying different configurations of socket extensions so that I had enough space to fit a wrench up in between the exhaust manifold and the fuel lines.

Once I freed up the diff end up with a 3# sledge and a dull chisel it only took a few taps to free up the rear.

Mmm thatll do it! Now just get a rebuild kit for around $20 and do it yourself

https://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=978&search=liberty

 

[JeepJeepster]

Ive never seen a CV get to that point.

 

[WheelNut]

I just did this on my '02. I ordered a complete driveshaft from driveshaftpart.com to safe some time. To rotate the shaft easily for bolt access you only need to jack up one front wheel. Spin the wheel that is off the ground and shaft will rotate. I just put a foot against the airborne tire to stop it from rotating while removing the bolts. You don't need much torque on there, so its not too hard.

 

[tinyhousevt]

I just did this on my '02. I ordered a complete driveshaft from driveshaftpart.com to safe some time. To rotate the shaft easily for bolt access you only need to jack up one front wheel. Spin the wheel that is off the ground and shaft will rotate. I just put a foot against the airborne tire to stop it from rotating while removing the bolts. You don't need much torque on there, so its not too hard.

Does having just the front end off the ground allow both ends (front diff and transfer case) to rotate? This is good to know for the eventual reinstall.

 

[WheelNut]

It will rotate, but you must have 2wd selected at the transfer case. My KJ has an NV242 (the one with full-time 4x4). Not sure if the NV231 will do the same, but I would imagine it would. If not just jack up the whole left side of the truck so one front and one rear wheel is in the air.

 

[tommudd]

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