greaseable suspension parts?
- Thread starter XWrench3
- Start date
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MarksmanAkula
Akula
Does your Jeep have an OME lift? If so go with these - https://tinyurl.com/y4j6tnxj
If no lift, then I am not sure. Grease zerks would likely hit the bump stops.
jeeptorino68
Full Access Member
Mevotech terrain tough upper control arms are greasable (well the ball joint is anyways....)
JeepJeepster
Full Access Member
Looks like they make two that are greasable. Not sure what he difference is. MEVOTECH CTXK3198 and MEVOTECH CMK3198.
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am i missing something, because that looks like the same part # to me.
also, i looked at a couple of places, and rock auto is about 1/2 the price of the other guys. is that normal?
MarksmanAkula
Akula
Yes its normal. RockAuto is a very reputable site (Ive had 30+ orders through them)
Reason is why is theyre basically a dropship company, thats why theyre able to keep cost down.
MarksmanAkula
Akula
Depending on the warehouse shipping will take under 4 days. With my quickest delivery being next day.
JeepJeepster
Full Access Member
oops, my bad... Fixed it.
mercdudecbr600
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I installed the Mevotech terrain tough front UCA - they are indeed tough. The upper ball joint is about 30% larger than stock, almost oversized for the application really. They are greasable and I haven't had any issues with the zerk fittings breaking off etc on the bump stops in the 2 years I've had them on. Very pleased with these.
However, I also installed the mevotech supreme rear UCA, and the anti-corrosion finish is already rusting on the ball joint itself and I'm now getting what I think is a ball joint popping from the rear - might have been damaged during a recent dry-pavement locked-rear diff fiasco. I'm replacing under warranty but NOT looking forward to that job again.
Are they geometrically adjusted for a lift? Given the shape of the arm itself, it looks like it would be hard if not impossible to replace the balljoint. Very attractive though given they are 35% of the cost of the JBA ones. But I want the improved geometry...
jeeptorino68
Full Access Member
They are just stock length unfortunately
mercdudecbr600
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I actually think (though I didn't measure) that they might be just a tad longer than stock. The ball joints are pressed-in and they look massive enough to last (properly maintained) 30 years. I doubt you would be able to easily find replacement ball joints.
They are the same as stock
Hey, I wanna piggy back here instead of starting a new thread if that is OK. If not I will...
What my thought process is now is... are you guys having ball joint failures at the axle? I am guessing so.
I am not having that issue. The ball joint seems to hold up for me. It is the rubber bushing ends failing for me. The points that mount to the body. I'm starting to think I am doing something wrong on install. Or is this just because I am always using it like a cargo van, hauling weight. Starting and stopping a lot. Getting in rough places with this weight and articulating?
Best I remember I am installing the upper. Then letting it down off the jack, then tightening things up. And the times I have done it I am empty. Is that wrong proceedure? Should I maybe instead be doing it with a typical load inside? IDK.
All I do know is that I have creaking in the rear again. And it is for sure on the body end that I am hearing it. So it's either that end of the upper again. Or my lowers are creaking again. I have only changed the lowers once I believe.
What my thought process is now is... are you guys having ball joint failures at the axle? I am guessing so.
I am not having that issue. The ball joint seems to hold up for me. It is the rubber bushing ends failing for me. The points that mount to the body. I'm starting to think I am doing something wrong on install. Or is this just because I am always using it like a cargo van, hauling weight. Starting and stopping a lot. Getting in rough places with this weight and articulating?
Best I remember I am installing the upper. Then letting it down off the jack, then tightening things up. And the times I have done it I am empty. Is that wrong proceedure? Should I maybe instead be doing it with a typical load inside? IDK.
All I do know is that I have creaking in the rear again. And it is for sure on the body end that I am hearing it. So it's either that end of the upper again. Or my lowers are creaking again. I have only changed the lowers once I believe.
