H&R Spring Review

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derekj

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Have had my springs in for about 2 weeks now and must say it rides much better than the newer oem (Monroe) stuff I had before. The ride is a bit more firm and there is a bit less nose dive when braking as well. Feels more controlled on the gravel roads I drive almost every day. I took some measurements today and it sits at 20.25" in the front and 20.5" in the rear, so just under the advertised 1.5" lift in the front and right bang on in the rear. For the price ($460 to my door) here in Canada this is a great option instead of OME which would be around $700cdn for 4 springs. Plus I painted the springs as I didn't like the blue :rolleyes: - and yes bump stops are coming.

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JustSumDad

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May I ask what the overall verdict is after some time on these springs?
what is the sag like after a year or so?
specifically comfort of ride on a DD basis...

Could Just the springs be dropped in with all stock other parts and attain 1.5" lift over stock?

Thanx
 

derekj

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May I ask what the overall verdict is after some time on these springs?
what is the sag like after a year or so?
specifically comfort of ride on a DD basis...

Could Just the springs be dropped in with all stock other parts and attain 1.5" lift over stock?

Thanx
So far so good - I did add a couple conduit nuts up from after the front settled about 1/4". Still happy with how it drives - better than stock and not quite as stiff as the OME heavy springs. I have the springs paired with just some Monroe Spectrum shocks - will upgrade to Bilsteins when these get worn out. being that I drive a lot of gravel roads full of potholes I do appreciate the little bit extra droop in the suspension that these springs provide compared to that of a 2.5" spring lift.

I would probably install new shocks if you are going to the trouble of replacing the springs, but yes they will give you 1.5" of lift.
 

JustSumDad

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So far so good - I did add a couple conduit nuts up from after the front settled about 1/4". Still happy with how it drives - better than stock and not quite as stiff as the OME heavy springs. I have the springs paired with just some Monroe Spectrum shocks - will upgrade to Bilsteins when these get worn out. being that I drive a lot of gravel roads full of potholes I do appreciate the little bit extra droop in the suspension that these springs provide compared to that of a 2.5" spring lift.

I would probably install new shocks if you are going to the trouble of replacing the springs, but yes they will give you 1.5" of lift.
Budget is extremely tight, if these shocks are not worn out I would rather use them, I have way more time than money :)
not sure what you mean by conduit nuts... Will try to look that up...
The springs in the KJ now have sagged down to 18.25" ish so 1.5" over stock 19.5" would bring it up to 21" and that's 3" more than she has now.
has 245/70/17 tires atm - rides like a lumber truck...

My thinking now is to just do these springs, then if a winch gets put up front do a clevis lift to compensate for that weight...

If the shocks do need doing, I can go back in and do them then... second time is always easier :)

how long did it take to settle that 1/4" ?

Thanx
 

derekj

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Budget is extremely tight, if these shocks are not worn out I would rather use them, I have way more time than money :)
not sure what you mean by conduit nuts... Will try to look that up...
The springs in the KJ now have sagged down to 18.25" ish so 1.5" over stock 19.5" would bring it up to 21" and that's 3" more than she has now.
has 245/70/17 tires atm - rides like a lumber truck...

My thinking now is to just do these springs, then if a winch gets put up front do a clevis lift to compensate for that weight...

If the shocks do need doing, I can go back in and do them then... second time is always easier :)

how long did it take to settle that 1/4" ?

Thanx
Took about 3-4 months to settle - the "conduit nuts" are 2" electrical conduit nuts from home depot - you put them between the bottom of the shock and the clevis to help level the truck left to right and add a bit of lift to the front to help for a bit of added weight or sagging springs. They are circled in the photo below.

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KJowner

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I put a drawing of the boiler plate mod on here a while ago, a bit of 1/4 or 3/8 plate shaped to go on top of the strut, you get double the thickness in lift.
 

KJowner

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Can't find my old post, might have put it somewhere else??
This is a drawing from this site someone else has posted
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KJowner

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I played around with my printer until the measurements were spot on so I could make a paper template to cut out so I could easily transfer it to steel.
 

JustSumDad

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I put a drawing of the boiler plate mod on here a while ago, a bit of 1/4 or 3/8 plate shaped to go on top of the strut, you get double the thickness in lift.
you seem like someone that knows the KJ suspension when it comes to the small mod side of things...
could you confirm some of my current thoughts please :)

The H&R springs I have on the way will give it approx 1.5" of lift over stock right?
This should work with the shocks that are in the car now?
IF my daughter finds a bit more $$ what shocks should be looked at?
Should we consider new bump stops?
This one is for me :) when does the lift get to be too much for the CV's?

Thanx
 

klc

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For shocks, either Old Man Emu or Bilstein. I don’t think you want to go much higher than two inches for the sake of the CV’s, no one is making four inch lift kits anymore. Search the forums for threads on lifts, a former moderator named Tom Mudd has discussed this geometry issue in detail. Reading his and Johnny O’s posts are how I learned to put in my lift.
 

CheddarGau

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you seem like someone that knows the KJ suspension when it comes to the small mod side of things...
could you confirm some of my current thoughts please :)

The H&R springs I have on the way will give it approx 1.5" of lift over stock right?
This should work with the shocks that are in the car now?
IF my daughter finds a bit more $$ what shocks should be looked at?
Should we consider new bump stops?
This one is for me :) when does the lift get to be too much for the CV's?

Thanx
I went with Bilstein shocks, since they are readily available. You can get them from Lordco. They aren't always in stock at the local one, so they may come in from the warehouse. CV's should be fine with that one.
 

KJowner

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100% fit longer bump stops or the shock becomes the bump stop when it runs out of stroke. I put KYBs on mine but I'm in England so different parts available here - H&R are German and cheap, OME is very expensive etc.
 

Erskine

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you seem like someone that knows the KJ suspension when it comes to the small mod side of things...
could you confirm some of my current thoughts please :)

The H&R springs I have on the way will give it approx 1.5" of lift over stock right?
This should work with the shocks that are in the car now?
IF my daughter finds a bit more $$ what shocks should be looked at?
Should we consider new bump stops?
This one is for me :) when does the lift get to be too much for the CV's?

Thanx
I've been running these springs for over 30,000 miles now.
There has been no sagging and they are sitting at a squeak over 20" all round. I've standard fitment Bilsteins on the back and standard KYBs on the front. I have not fitted extended bump stops but did get the tracking done after installation.
I am very pleased with them. I drive offroad everyday on heavily rutted and potholed farm tracks and they do get a good work out, but not at Paris-Dakar speeds.
The truck sits at the same height as they KJ's used to when they were first launched (looking at original promo literature), before the nanny state of California got involved and started bleating about something or other. 18" is not the standard ride height either, that is the shagged out springs ride height.
 

JustSumDad

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100% fit longer bump stops or the shock becomes the bump stop when it runs out of stroke. I put KYBs on mine but I'm in England so different parts available here - H&R are German and cheap, OME is very expensive etc.

I have been thinking about it since I posted that question, the situtaion you describe (I think) should not happen with a pure spring lift.
all geometry remains the same, stroke of the shock included. While the shock is averageing its ride in a different level of the stroke, the top and bottom of the travel should remain exactly where they were. I belive bump stops would only be needed if you relocate the entire strut via top spacers or perhaps clevis relocation.
With these springs I suppose its possible the spring may bind on full compresson if the spring had a taller full compresson length than the stock one...
in that case a longer bump stop would be needed to protect the spring.
 

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