Help with jba uca!

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r00t2400

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Currently having the ome bilstein lift being installed with the jba ucas. The guy doing the work just contacted me and thinks maybe the ball joints are wrong because they don’t seat down inside the spindle. I guess if I understood him correctly. Does anyone have pics of what the installed jbas look like on a kk? Also does it look correct in these pics? I also am including a short clip on Imgur. Thanks for looking! I found a dead link on here for the instructions from jba does anyone have them or a working link?
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r00t2400

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I found this pic of an installed jba uca and you can see several threads showing where there is none on mine. How do you rectify that? My pic is on the right.
 

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duderz7

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Looks ok to me. That section of the knuckle looks thicker on yours, therfore no threads. But it looks like the nylon on the nut engages, but its hard to tell. The torque spec is on the higher side for a ball joint iirc, however I do not remember what the number is. Don't take my word for it, we'll get another opinion here soo .
 

JRB

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Somone on here may know, but it couldn't hurt to try and contact jba as well to see if that is not normal.

It's hard to tell by the photos, do the tapered fits not match and that is the concern, or just not long enough stud threads for the nut to capture?

I agree with duderz above, the knuckle does look thicker, but that could just be the angle of the dangle in the photos (but where its cast and machined look slightly different too, whether just the angles).
 

r00t2400

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Somone on here may know, but it couldn't hurt to try and contact jba as well to see if that is not normal.

It's hard to tell by the photos, do the tapered fits not match and that is the concern, or just not long enough stud threads for the nut to capture?

I agree with duderz above, the knuckle does look thicker, but that could just be the angle of the dangle in the photos (but where its cast and machined look slightly different too, whether just the angles).
I’m not sure what the middle paragraph means. Did you watch the little video clip? It may be able to answer your questions.
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I sent him a screen grab of your responses so hopefully I’ll be able to ask him these questions in the morning.
 

r00t2400

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Looks ok to me. That section of the knuckle looks thicker on yours, therfore no threads. But it looks like the nylon on the nut engages, but its hard to tell. The torque spec is on the higher side for a ball joint iirc, however I do not remember what the number is. Don't take my word for it, we'll get another opinion here soo
Somone on here may know, but it couldn't hurt to try and contact jba as well to see if that is not normal.

It's hard to tell by the photos, do the tapered fits not match and that is the concern, or just not long enough stud threads for the nut to capture?

I agree with duderz above, the knuckle does look thicker, but that could just be the angle of the dangle in the photos (but where its cast and machined look slightly different too, whether just the angles).
someone sent me a pic of theirs on my other post and it looks very similar except the boot is pulled down. Let me know what you think about the video also if you check it out.
 

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KJowner

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I’m not sure what the middle paragraph means. Did you watch the little video clip? It may be able to answer your questions.
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I sent him a screen grab of your responses so hopefully I’ll be able to ask him these questions in the morning.
He is asking if your mechanic has checked to see if the angle of the taper in the hole is the same as the angle of the taper on the ball joint pin - is it a good fit in the hole?
 

r00t2400

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Thanks for the replies, jba sent me a pic showing how to measure the ball joint and apparently it’s the wrong size so they sent a new one out this morning.
 
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