Help!

[kj924]

I need to know if I can remove the pass. side CV shaft and still be able to drive the KJ? I think the intermediate shaft is toast...crunch bang grinding noise when I drive it now, but if I remove the shaft will it hurt the wheel bearing on that side?

Any help is appreciated.


Derick

 

[DirtyKK]

i would remove the entire front diff or find a really good way to cover the hole on the pass side of the axle. the wheel bearing will be fine. im running around without a front axle waiting for my 4.10s to come in. :disgust:

 

[kj924]

Thanks man! I still don't know if the axels are the problem yet, but until I remove them, I can't know for sure.

 

[DirtyKK]

i would lift the front end and check for any play in the ubj, lbj, tie rods and wheel bearings. if those all check out check give a look at your front driveshaft and rear driveshafts u-joints. if they all check out i would remove the front driveshaft and give it a drive first before tearing everything apart to pull the cv.

 

[yellocoyote]

Derick - I've had to do this very thing on my KJ a couple of times. You can leave the differential in, but remove the CV. What I did then was I took a tennis ball, and duct taped it over the opening into the differential. That keeps the gear oil in, and the contaminants out.

 

[ptsb5a]

Derrick, you can remove the Passenger side CV shaft and drive around without issue. Just leave the intermediate shaft in. Nothing will get in the diff if the axle seal is doing it's job. Just don't engage 4wd. I don't know if anything bad would happen but I'm pretty sure that with an open front diff, the intermediate shaft will spin like crazy and no torque will be applied to the driver's side wheel. I ran like that for a while last year when I wrecked the pass side CV/intermediate shaft and waited for replacement parts to show up.

 

[yellocoyote]

Doesn't that make a lot of noise, Ian? Having the intermediate shaft in there with nothing connected to it on the other end? It just seems like it would rattle around.

 

[ptsb5a]

Jayme, the intermediate shaft is firmly planted into the diff carrier and riding on the bushing (I dare not call it a bearing) at the outside end. It's not going anywhere. It'll just spin in unision with the diff carrier.

 

[ptsb5a]

Derick, the front bearing/hub unit is the same for a 4wd and 2wd. The 2wd version has a knockout filler plug sort of thing in it to block off the splined inside portion from the elements.

 

[yellocoyote]

Jayme, the intermediate shaft is firmly planted into the diff carrier and riding on the bushing (I dare not call it a bearing) at the outside end. It's not going anywhere. It'll just spin in unision with the diff carrier.

Gotcha. Thanks.

 

[DirtyKK]

well if the intermediate shaft is stuck with the cv when you pull it out like mine was you can still use Jayme's idea, which is fairly genius i might add haha

 

[tommudd]

Why in the heck would you leave the intermediate shaft in?:shrug:

More than likely its going to come out with the CV anyways and if not remove it as well since there will be nothing to hold it in.
Remove both, stick a rag or something over the hole and be good
I've done it on mine and two others while waiting on parts etc and no issues at all.

 

[yellocoyote]

The only reason I asked about leaving the intermediate shaft in is because I know what a pain it is to get it separated from the CV... and I know there is a seal (bushing?) on the outer end of where the intermediate shaft goes into the differential... and I wasn't sure if just leaving the int. shaft in there would rattle, or damage that seal, or...???

 

[kj924]

OK Thanks everyone, I just back home after doing a closer look inside a heated garage. It turns out the driver's front wheel bearing is toast, not saying that the half shaft isn't, but I now know for sure the wheel bearing is all done.

So Ian, did you get a 2wd bearing when you replaced yours? My dealer is telling me that one bearing is $350 ish and the other listing is $170 ish.

These bearings must be the same, just the knock out you were referring to is the difference. I think I will order the $170 one.

Phew! I thought it was more serious than what it is...the sound was sickening when it let go last week.

Thanks again for the help guys and gals...that is the reason right there that KJ Country is the best !!

 

[DirtyKK]

i buy replacement parts from moparpartsamerica.com and they are usually way cheaper then the dealership.

 

[kj924]

i buy replacement parts from moparpartsamerica.com and they are usually way cheaper then the dealership.

That's what makes me wish I still lived on the border.

 

[kj924]

Ok, so I got the wheel bearing/hub replaced the other day. I picked one up at a local parts store for $161.00 and that was for an ABS KJ...it was an Auto Select brand part, and it came with the ABS sensor wire. It took roughly an hour from start to finish, no puller required which surprised me. Now that the terrible growling and roughness is gone, I hear the other side growling, not near as badly as the driver's side but it's gonna need replacement too.

The hub has a 1year warranty...not too bad considering the two year warranty hub was nearly double the price. :disgust:

What a difference it made in the drive and feel of the Jeep,I was so use to the growl that I forgot what it suppose to sound like.

 

[Jake.Ski]

I am waiting on my hub! When you replaced it did you have to remove the ball joints??

Jake

 

[ptsb5a]

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46865

Check that thread out Jake.

 

[Jake.Ski]

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46865

Check that thread out Jake.

Thank you!

I knew i saw this somewhere, just couldnt track it down!!

Jake