High Mileage KJ: What else should I do while lifting?

[ebelements]

High Mileage KJ: What else should I do while lifting? (now with progress)

I recently purchased a 2002 Liberty 3.7 Sport(supposedly the first 5-speed built!) from the original owner, my father. He's getting up there in years and as much as he loves the KJ, he's over driving a manual. This truck has been very well taken care of, but at 154k miles it is needing it's third suspension. The springs are OEM from what I have been told and the car is riding on what's left of the Ranchos that were installed at 75k miles. It feels significantly less than "confidence inspiring."

To keep things succinct, I've already decided the wheels and lift(31s on 15" steels/JBA Econo-Lift) but what I came here to ask is, on a higher-mileage KJ, what other suspension components would you replace while under there? I was thinking about lower control arms up front with new Moog ball joints, but the voice in the back of my head says "why stop there" and the next thing I know I've got a high-dollar shopping list of every arm, ball joint, bushing and end link offered. I don't want to cheap out on this, but I also don't want to replace every single component if it's not necessary/overkill.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance!

 

[ridenby]

Would a least make certain the bolt in the lower arms will move so alignment can be reset. It can be a real pain to get loose/out.

 

[Cardhu]

rear u joints on mine failed within an oil change after lifting.

Other popular problems are intermediate shaft and sway bar links.

 

[ebelements]

Thanks Cardhu! I'll check for play when I'm under there next. I do get a bit of a clunk when I let the clutch out, so I'm not sure if that's not being acclimated to the Liberty's manual or if something's worn. I know Dad had the fluids done in the ****** and rear end a few months ago, so if something was worn out back there I would think it would have been brought up.

I'm thinking I'll bite the bullet and replace as much of the rubber suspension parts under the truck as I can when I do the Tommudd Econo lift. Front lower arms, end links, sway bar bushings, Moog LBJs, and rear upper arms. Not sure if the rear lower arms are an issue on these, JBA doesn't seem to sell them(OEM spec anyways) and all I'm able to find online are questionable 3rd party replacements.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Thanks Cardhu! I'll check for play when I'm under there next. I do get a bit of a clunk when I let the clutch out, so I'm not sure if that's not being acclimated to the Liberty's manual or if something's worn. I know Dad had the fluids done in the ****** and rear end a few months ago, so if something was worn out back there I would think it would have been brought up.

I'm thinking I'll bite the bullet and replace as much of the rubber suspension parts under the truck as I can when I do the Tommudd Econo lift. Front lower arms, end links, sway bar bushings, Moog LBJs, and rear upper arms. Not sure if the rear lower arms are an issue on these, JBA doesn't seem to sell them(OEM spec anyways) and all I'm able to find online are questionable 3rd party replacements.

The clunk you're getting could be from the rear upper arm. There is a ball joint in the center that attaches to the top of the diff to prevent lateral axle movement - and there are bushings on each end of the upper control arm where it mounts to the body. The upper arm is referred to as a "tri-link" and if it is showing signs of wear its better to replace the arm with an OEM than aftermarket. Don't bother trying to replace the ball joint or bushings - the arm itself is rusted so that it will just deform when it's put in a press.

The bushings in the rear lower control arms are easily replaced. A bolt on each end and they're out - the passenger side bolt on the front of the arm will require you to pull the muffler to the center of the truck to remove but that's not a big deal. Buy the bushings from RockAuto.com and then take the arms to your local tire shop to be pressed in.

Have the dealer run your VIN as you may be eligible for a recall on the rear lower arms.

Bob

 

[TheBlueKJ]

I recently purchased a 2002 Liberty 3.7 Sport(supposedly the first 5-speed built!) from the original owner, my father. He's getting up there in years and as much as he loves the KJ, he's over driving a manual. This truck has been very well taken care of, but at 154k miles it is needing it's third suspension. The springs are OEM from what I have been told and the car is riding on what's left of the Ranchos that were installed at 75k miles. It feels significantly less than "confidence inspiring."

To keep things succinct, I've already decided the wheels and lift(31s on 15" steels/JBA Econo-Lift) but what I came here to ask is, on a higher-mileage KJ, what other suspension components would you replace while under there? I was thinking about lower control arms up front with new Moog ball joints, but the voice in the back of my head says "why stop there" and the next thing I know I've got a high-dollar shopping list of every arm, ball joint, bushing and end link offered. I don't want to cheap out on this, but I also don't want to replace every single component if it's not necessary/overkill.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance!

You killed a puppy.

 

[Luke]

Your a JEEP owner now

Congrats BTW

 

[ebelements]

You killed a puppy.

Mannnn, I thought I was all sorted out before posting. Apologies to all!

Finally got to dig into the JEEP suspension install this weekend... after two solid 7 hour days(with breaks, man alive was it hot out) I am still what I consider "barely" started. Here's where day one ended up:

You must be registered for see images attach

Everything that can be an issue is turning out to be an issue—bolts seized to bushings, bolts rounding off, and all the other accoutrements that come with an 11 year old midwest truck that's been outside it's whole life. Let's just say that I am glad I bought all new bushings/arms/endlinks/balljoints... but not excited for the trip to the parts counter when it's time to replace all the related hardware.

Additionally, I found out why the rear end didn't feel planted(YouTube Link).

Cheers, more updates when the weather and my schedule are more clear!

Erik

 

[Luke]

Holy crap ... nice pic! I've been right where you are ... except with a garage

It makes the sense of accomplishment all the more extreme!

Good Luck!

 

[ebelements]

I've been right where you are ... except with a garage

The sad part is, I do have a 2 car garage, but the Jeep has only been in it once—garage door height is 72" and the tallest part of the rails was 71.5". Never thought it would be an issue as before the Jeep every car I'd owned barely came up to my ribcage!

Thanks for the encouragement, I need it, ha!

 

[wheeee32]

Yeah I'd say that was a good reason for the rear end of your Jeep not feeling normal.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Additionally, I found out why the rear end didn't feel planted(YouTube Link).

Cheers, more updates when the weather and my schedule are more clear!

Erik

Uh, I don't see anything wrong with that shock... :anitoof:

Should feel a whole lot different when you get the Mudd EconoLift on there. Shoot, just a new shock would make it into a new truck...

Looking forward to pics of your completed lift!

Bob

 

[ebelements]

Looking forward to pics of your completed lift!

So am I! The rear LCAs, front knuckles, and front spring/shock are at a shop having bushings/baljoints/ironman springs/shocks installed.

Just got a call and they're telling me that the ironman stuff isn't working for some reason... they say they've got the spring compressed, but it won't work with the new shocks. :think: This is one of the more competent suspension/tire shops in the area so I'm not really sure what their issue is, besides either A) not having the spring compressed enough or B) being a little concerned at how close the coils are when it's close to being together.

Got a call in to JBA to see what they think and to doublecheck the parts that were sent, but I don't think the issue is on their end.

If anyone has an idea what the issue might be, or if there are any tips/tricks I could pass along, please share.

Erik

 

[tommudd]

99 out of 100 times its the shop not knowing what they are doing. The springs set close together on the Ironman, just the way they are made. They have one full extra coil than the OMEs do. They just need to put them together and be done
Lots of shops have never worked with KJs so don't know what to expect

 

[ridenby]

Can guarantee that the shop has never worked on a lifted KJ. The springs are tough sobs compared to just about any other setup.

 

[Snail Farmer]

They're a PITA to compress. The guy that did mine was very nervous when putting mine together. The springs were shifting sideways, and cranking on the handle to compress them wore him out. Broke his spring compressor too. He said he's never seen anything like them in over 30 years of working on cars.

 

[ebelements]

Can guarantee that the shop has never worked on a lifted KJ. The springs are tough sobs compared to just about any other setup.

I'm at the shop now. Showed the tech pictures of Tommudd's ironman install. Turns out that the perches were getting hung up on the stickers that were on the shock, making it look like the springs were 3" or more too long even when compressed.

So yeah, basically these guys are a bunch of yahoos. Can't wait to see my bill for this nonsense.

 

[ebelements]

Made some progress, despite all the issues the truck as thrown at me.

You must be registered for see images attach

Everything is in, just need to torque all the bushing-related bolts while it's on the ground and put the nonsense in the bay back together. Took a lot longer than I'd anticipated, as I ran into issues every time I got the tools out... but powered through them. Also didn't realize how much media blasting and painting I was going to be doing, but I guess that's what I get for buying a truck from Northwest Ohio!

While it was up in the air I addressed the exhaust leak, a rotted through curved section of the midpipe/cat(walker replacement, not a great fit but it'll do) and in a moment of weakness ordered a Gibson stainless catback. Amazon had them for a shade over $300 with free shipping, and fitting it was a hell of a lot easier than reinstalling the stock exhaust.

Once I undercoat the rockers(had some new sections welded in) I'm hoping to get it aligned in the next few days and excited to start putting some miles on Big Red!

Measurements before: Roughly 18.25" front, 19.25" rear. After is roughly 23" front, 24" rear. I'm sure it'll decrease some after an alignment and a few weeks of driving, but I'm absolutely ecstatic at how it turned out.

Driving impressions to come later!

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Looks awesome!! :waytogo:

Did you get those rocker panels from Nor/Am Auto Body Parts? I've got a friend with some fresh holes in his rocker (easy on the jokes people! :icon_wink: ) and I'm wondering if those work OK.

Get out and wheel Big Red and show up some Wrangler owners!!!! :happy175:

Bob

 

[ebelements]

Looks awesome!! :waytogo:

Did you get those rocker panels from Nor/Am Auto Body Parts? I've got a friend with some fresh holes in his rocker (easy on the jokes people! :icon_wink: ) and I'm wondering if those work OK.

I did, after finding one lonely post either on here or LOST mentioning them.

To be honest, you definitely get what you pay for. They are shaped *similarly* to the OEM rockers but clearly designed to be installed over the factory sheetmetal. Ideally the factory would sell a patch panel, but alas, they only sell whole sides, so my first recommendation would be to find a yard that's willing to hack up a liberty for you. In my case I was lucky—a buddy of mine runs a one man custom shop and was going through a slow period and agreed to tackle my problem. As always, the rust bubbles weren't the whole story and he cut a lot out, then "massaged" the nor/am rockers until they'd work as patch panels.

Afterwords I went through the rockers with Eastwood internal frame coating, seam sealed where the welds were, and covered the bare metal with some satin black.

Not sure if your buddy needs the whole panel replaced, but if he just needs areas patched, he can have what's left of the panels I bought. As you can tell from the pics all that was needed was a few feet(if that) from each panel.