libertybob
Full Access Member
Inspection plate
Some manual trans have plates on the side or top where the shift mechanism goes in that you can remove to see inside the trans but some do not. I do not know about Liberty's as my Libby has an automatic. If the trans still has fluid in it, the fluid condition can tell you something about the condition. A bronze color fluid indicates synchronizer wear and the "mercury" color worn steel parts. If the plug is magnetic, absence of metal chips is a good indicator. You can also shift the trans through its gears and turn the input shaft to check for broken teeth. But the 6 month guarantee is a good thing to have - shows the yard is a responsible business. My last used trans is a 82k mile 42RLE automatic from Pennsylvania. Works great after the 3-2 downshift learning was completed. Hope yours works out well. While you are in there, might as well change the rear crankshaft seal to avoid future leaks. Costs less than $15 and avoids pulling the trans and flywheel later. Also, check/replace the pilot bearing in the crank, throw out bearing, clutch disc, pressure plate, and condition of the flywheel. Also might replace the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder if it's internal to the bell housing. It's a pain to pull a ****** so doing all at once may well save having to do it again.
Some manual trans have plates on the side or top where the shift mechanism goes in that you can remove to see inside the trans but some do not. I do not know about Liberty's as my Libby has an automatic. If the trans still has fluid in it, the fluid condition can tell you something about the condition. A bronze color fluid indicates synchronizer wear and the "mercury" color worn steel parts. If the plug is magnetic, absence of metal chips is a good indicator. You can also shift the trans through its gears and turn the input shaft to check for broken teeth. But the 6 month guarantee is a good thing to have - shows the yard is a responsible business. My last used trans is a 82k mile 42RLE automatic from Pennsylvania. Works great after the 3-2 downshift learning was completed. Hope yours works out well. While you are in there, might as well change the rear crankshaft seal to avoid future leaks. Costs less than $15 and avoids pulling the trans and flywheel later. Also, check/replace the pilot bearing in the crank, throw out bearing, clutch disc, pressure plate, and condition of the flywheel. Also might replace the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder if it's internal to the bell housing. It's a pain to pull a ****** so doing all at once may well save having to do it again.
