How Bad Is My Rust

[Xxylid]

Hey new to the forums, I just got a 2005 Liberty Limited 3.7L. Plan to race RallyCross with it and do some beach driving. Noticed a lot of rust below when I was looking at what to replace. Is this safe to drive? What should I replace? Old owner said rear driveshaft.

Any and all help is appreciated, thanks.

-DJ

 

[Bikeflyer]

The shaft and suspension arms are the thinnest metal. The solid parts are less concerning, but in either case I would go to town with a angle grinder and wire wheel to find the true damages, then repaint what survives.

 

[Johnny O]

Check online and see if your Lib has had the rear lower control arms recall corrected, they will rust out and collapse otherwise. Alternative is to keep clean undies under the seat for when they fail.

 

[Johnny O]

Also, I’d pay money to see a Libby rally cross. They are nimble, but not fast and suffer from lousy transmissions.

all in all though I don’t see any rust in the photos that scares me and a can of rust converter…however you suspension is OE and about done.

 

[Xxylid]

Also, I’d pay money to see a Libby rally cross. They are nimble, but not fast and suffer from lousy transmissions.

all in all though I don’t see any rust in the photos that scares me and a can of rust converter…however you suspension is OE and about done.

I think I’m going to replace the clevises and do an OME lift but worried about height for rally cross

 

[Xxylid]

Check online and see if your Lib has had the rear lower control arms recall corrected, they will rust out and collapse otherwise. Alternative is to keep clean undies under the seat for when they fail.

Would this be on the build sheet? Can I call Jeep?

 

[DadOSix]

That rear uca is crusty. Likely has a bad ball joint back there or bad bushings or both.

have recently replaced on each of my kj’s 04 and 06.

if you suffer from driveline clunk, this is a good place to look.

 

[Xxylid]

That rear uca is crusty. Likely has a bad ball joint back there or bad bushings or both.

have recently replaced on each of my kj’s 04 and 06.

if you suffer from driveline clunk, this is a good place to look.

That rear uca is crusty. Likely has a bad ball joint back there or bad bushings or both.

have recently replaced on each of my kj’s 04 and 06.

if you suffer from driveline clunk, this is a good place to look.

I do have that driveline clunk when I press the gas or shift into reverse. Thought it was something in transmission. Where do you get a new one? Pick n Pull? What does UCA stand for?

 

[DadOSix]

Rear upper control arm. Or wishbone or tri-mount.

most guys use oem on it. For mine, i get the moog version.

mine dont run too far from home or see extreme condiotion off roading, so it works for me.

couple good threads on here re the replacement procedures.



crawl under and get a bar. Check for movement at each attachment point.

could also show as a ‘fishtail’ when letting off the accelerator. Both of mine did that.

 

[tommudd]

Just from looking at the pics I have worked on far worse looking ones when doing lifts
I would be more concerned about the rear lower control arms, the tri-link, ( which some calls other names for some reason but,....) more than anything else

 

[DadOSix]

Tri-link! Yeah!

that is the right term. Lol!

 

[Xxylid]

Rear upper control arm. Or wishbone or tri-mount.

most guys use oem on it. For mine, i get the moog version.

mine dont run too far from home or see extreme condiotion off roading, so it works for me.

couple good threads on here re the replacement procedures.



crawl under and get a bar. Check for movement at each attachment point.

could also show as a ‘fishtail’ when letting off the accelerator. Both of mine did that.

Any idea what causes the clunk in the driveline? There’s one at the pick n pull that’s not in too bad shape. Just didn’t know where to start on trying to remove it. Haha

 

[tommudd]

Any idea what causes the clunk in the driveline? There’s one at the pick n pull that’s not in too bad shape. Just didn’t know where to start on trying to remove it. Haha

I would really try and buy a new one. The one at the junk yard "may " look good but is worth all the issues in removing?
To remove I would remove the b al ls from the rear diff to better get at the whole tri link and bracket that attaches to the rear diff. then the two front bolts. Better have a good battery impact to help you remove it
The " clunk " comes from the balljoint being worn out on the tri link many times

 

[Xxylid]

If I can get the part somewhere any estimates to install in? $600-$1000?

 

[DadOSix]

Diy!

moog - about 120 on line (have your parts store Advance, et al) match the amazon / rock auto price.

couple hours of your time.

i say couple hours bc the first time, you need to figure it out. I do mine in about an hour IF the bolts in the front aren’t seized.

my method is by working on the floor (no lift)
back end up on ramps. Yes ramps.

i use free-all instead of pb - personal preference of rust buster.

soak the 3 points first nite.

next night - have at it.

air / impact helps greatly.

i do not drop the rear sway bar, nor loosen the shocks.

when i have the bushing bolts out, a little jack under the rear diff to adjust angle, i pop the ball joint bolt out. Careful here. Nut off. Drive the bolt out the left. All the way! If you leave it in, the joint will not separate. Hopefully, you wont need to pry at the mount. Be extremely careful if you do. They crack, and if your local parts yard doesn’t have one, you are into abt 500 at the dealer.

up and forward to the left then, and the tri-link slides right out.

no creeper for me. I use a sheet of cardboard or styrofoam insulation to work from.

wear eye protection cause you’re go*ng to get a face full or 2 of mud and rust.

 

[tommudd]

I've had them that the bolt was next to impossible to get out of the pinch area, due to rust, mud etc. Found it much easier and for me quicker to pull the whole bracket and tri-link off , plus easier to install as well .

 

[DadOSix]

I've had them that the bolt was next to impossible to get out of the pinch area, due to rust, mud etc. Found it much easier and for me quicker to pull the whole bracket and tri-link off , plus easier to install as well .

Truth there!

my 04 was a bear on that bolt. The lock bent over and it was nasty!

 

[Xxylid]

How good are the Crown Auto ones on Quadratec? $184
TrueDrive is $146 on carparts
and this one on ebay for $70

Control Arm For 2002-2007 Jeep Liberty Rear Driver or Passenger Upper 52088901AC | eBay

Replaces OE Number 52088901AC, 52088901AD. Interchange Part Number CMS25156, 52088901AC, 52088901AD. 2006 Liberty 65th Anniversary Edition 4WD. 2006 Liberty 65th Anniversary Edition RWD. 2002-2007 Liberty Limited 4WD.

www.ebay.com

 

[tommudd]

The cheap ones are cheap for a reason.
Years ago I had to run a cheap one on the 04 , less than 3 months it was toast
none from Detroit Axle either