HOW TO: 'Band-aid' a shot Steering Rack Bushing

[phxtoad]

UPDATED 04-18-10 Posted on LOST as well:

Symptoms:

Sitting on pavement, Jeep not moving, rolling the steering wheel back and forth a bit causes a couple good pops/clicks that you can feel in the wheel. It's now got a bit of slop before the wheels begin their turn. Happens either direction.

Inspection:

Pulled the front skid today, and when the wheel is rocked you can see the play in the rack. The rack rises and falls at the driver's side bolt. I checked, and the driver's side bolt is still completely torqued tight. From underneath there is no visible bushing at the driver's side bolt. It must have disintegrated. The passenger side still has one and appears fine.

The fix:

Got the digits dirty this afternoon and was able to get the driver's side 24mm bolt undone easily enough. The bushing had disintegrated at the bushing flange (lower) and is starting to go within the collar itself, but what is left is still centered in the rack hole.

Last night I found some rubber washers at Lowe's. Hillman 3/4" x 2 1/4" x 1/8" size. I slid two in between the rack and the frame, then used two above between the bolt top washer and the top of the rack. Torqued everything back up and viola - it worked! The rack is sitting level and is tight. Started it up and drove it for a bit. No play at in the wheel and it sounds and feels good.

I realize this is a temporary fix, and I need to keep an eye on the bolt torque and washers. I figure the washers are probably a softer rubber than the bushing - but given their large surface area they should keep up with the dynamic loads of the rack fairly well for a while. Best of all if they do start to go, it's $6 and a half hour to replace them.

The Process:

1. Removed front skid. No need to jack anything up unless you want more room to work.
2. Used a large adjustable wrench on the top driver's side bolt and let it rotate against the frame to offer leverage in order to loosen the bottom bolt. Used a 24mm socket with a breaker bar to loosen the bottom bolt.
3. The bolt slides up and out very easily since it nests inside a steel collar within the bushing itself.
4. I didn't touch the passenger side bolt at all. The rack can now be pushed towards the engine a bit - but not enough for the bushing to come out of the bottom. It's a flanged bushing (with flanged collar), so it only comes out from the bottom.
5. Cleaned up the surfaces. I noted some grime, but not a lot.
6. From below I reached up and grabbed the driver's side tie rod close to the end and pushed up. The rack moves easily, pivoting upward about the passenger side bolt.
7. I then slipped two of the new washers in place stacked between the rack and the frame. I checked to see that they were close to lining up with the hole.
8. I put the other two washers on the bolt below the large steel top washer and dropped it in place, making sure I went through the lower washers. The rubber washers are between the steel washer and the top of the rack.
9. Placed the adjustable wrench back in postion at the top bolt, and tightened it from below. The manual calls for 120 lb of torque. Not having a torque wrench that goes that high, I used my breaker bar to get it as tight as I could. I'll keep checking it periodically to make sure it's snug.

There's additional rubber thickness than the stock bushing overall, so the rack probably has slightly more movement than if the bushing were replaced correctly, but it's solid and holding. Today I probably put close to 100 miles on it - mostly highway at 65mph. Did some full lock to lock turns and wheeled a couple gnarly 4" speed bumps, too. It feels great - like it never failed.

TL

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[kb0nly]

Nice fix..

Can a guy buy new bushings or is it something that only comes with a new/rebuilt rack?? If they are available we should track down some part numbers.

 

[phxtoad]

New bushings are only $25. Problem is, you nearly need to disassemble the whole front end to get it out. TJKJ2002 was able to snake it out without dropping the front diff. Otherwise the shop manual calls for it to be dropped completely. Nothing like a +/-$500 of labor to replace a $25 part...
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[jnaut]

New bushings are only $25. Problem is, you nearly need to disassemble the whole front end to get it out. TJKJ2002 was able to snake it out without dropping the front diff. Otherwise the shop manual calls for it to be dropped completely. Nothing like a +/-$500 of labor to replace a $25 part...

Do tell. If 'user x' is able to 'snake a part out' which normally calls for the entire vehicle to be disassembled, a detailed how-to would be invaluable to us on the forums... unless of course this is one of those trade secrets that the smart mechanics don't spill to the rest of us who are trying to save a few bucks on labor to replace... the $25 part.

 

[phxtoad]

He did do a write-up! Search under 'Steering Rack'. If I get a chance I'll try and re-find his thread...

Here it is: http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36987&highlight=steering+rack
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[phxtoad]

Well here it is about 7000 miles later and I started to notice a bit more play in the steering. So I pulled the skid, removed the rack bolt and rubber washers I had installed way back when. Here they are:

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The top rubber washers were in pretty good shape. You can see however that the upper steel washer was starting to punch it's way through, though.

The bottom washers were toast however. I took this pic after I sliced a chunk off one of them to use to pack the bolt sleeve. When removing the bottom washer I used some plyers and split the washer. It was still intact beforehand. As you can see both are cupped from the stress. Also the rubber on both the lowers was deteriorating on the inner faces - probably due to oil residue and the repeated cycles of movement and contact with the steel sleeve.

As mentioned I packed some rubber in the sleeve to firm it up. The rubber in the sleeve is disappearing more and more.

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I installed four new rubber washers and tightened everything back up. Viola! Band-aid numero dos is up and running.

Still lovin this cheap fix!

TL
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[ridenby]

Good pics,been using this fix for awhile,still nerving up to try swapping out racks.

 

[cmohr]

I did a similar fix on my 04 , except I made the washers out of nolathane. I bought a couple of nolathane bushes, and made the 3mm washers by cutting off sections. Very hard wearing, still going strong.

 

[rockymountain]

I did a similar fix on my 04 , except I made the washers out of nolathane. I bought a couple of nolathane bushes, and made the 3mm washers by cutting off sections. Very hard wearing, still going strong.

could you tell us what you bought? I think I'm in the crappy rack bushing club as well. I'd like to know what nolathane bushes you got that you made fit. Thanks!!

 

[cmohr]

They were some bushes to suit "something" I just went for the right diameter, I cut the washers with a hack saw..

I have some pics somewhere, I'll find em..

 

[cmohr]

These are the only pics I can find.

You can see the Nolathane washers (BLUE) under the top washer, there is also the same at the bottom, but you cant see them.

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[Uncle Krusty]

Here's something you might try....

I'm not sure on the overall dimensions you need, but you can buy the older Jeep (CJ series) body mounts that are made from the same poly-whatever used for your Daystar lift. They are 2" in diameter, and a little over 1/2" thick, with a 1/2" hole

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=2.4101

I keep a bunch of these in the parts box as they make great bushings for mounting tool boxes, jerry cans, driving lights, you name it. Once you tighten them down, they don't go anywhere, and they help keep the rattling down too.

They may not have enough "give" to them for the steering rack though, but better than nothing...

Best part is they are pretty cheep, and readily available at the 4x4 shop.

 

[phxtoad]

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[BjBnet]

Are these what you are trying to replace?
Moog K7388
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1/613403-rack-pinion-mounting-bushing-by-moog-part-k7388.html

 

[Xodius]

hehe, I still have my bandaid there and it is still working pretty good. I just picked up some square rubber sheets for custom washers, cut my own and slapped them on it. Works pretty good but they are not "round" they are more...odd shaped, lol. Works though.

 

[BjBnet]

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how did the install go? did you do it yourself?

 

[Ralphf74]

Am I the only one who thought of this??

ok,
my 2006 Liberty needed a driver side steering rack bushing. I read all the posts etc on line after taking my Jeep to sears to see what they would charge to do the job. $900 bucks. The Jeep dealership; over a thousand. I bought the bushing at Napa. I think it was $15 or $16 bucks. Took the Jeep by a local guy who specializes in Jeeps. He said it would take him 3 hours or so and the rack had to come out. I'm a real estate appraiser, not a mechanic, however I used to race motocross and have been working on cars, bikes, etc most of my life. I did it. It took me about an hour, hour and a half. Here is what I did. I jacked up the front wheels and left the steering unlocked so theyc ould move. I took out the two rack bolts. I played around with it a little to see what was in whats way, etc. I wound up pulling the rack forward a bit and just happened to have a hole saw exactly the diameter of the new bushing rubber. I put my cordless drill in there (took the belt off so I had more wiggle room with the drill) and ran the drill in bursts, slowly, between the old bushing sleeve and the ear ont he rack, eating the rubber from between then. This went rather quickly. Then I soeaked it with wd40. I pushed the rack back to see if I could get the old bushin out. Obviously, it hits the frame and wont come out. I pulled it froward, lifted it and put a small block of wood under it. Used a long bar and a mallet to hammer the bushing down so it was hanging out the bottom a half inch or so. I tried my sawzall but could not get it in there to hack off the bottom/flange off the bottom of the old bushing. Grabbed my hand grinder, put a new wheel on it and took the side handle off it. Got it in there and made quick work of drinding through the sleeve. Rotated it a bit with a pair of channel locks, and did it again. Then again until the flange fell off and dropped on the ground like a 2 1/2 inch washer. Pushed the remainder of the sleeve out, cleaned out the old rubber, cleaned the frame, hole, tab, etc with brake cleaner. Ok, you your asking "yeah, but how did you get the new bushing in?". That bushing cost sixteen bucks. I cut it about a half inch from the flange and made it two pieces. Cleaned it up, and put the bottom/flange part under the rack, in the hole in the tab, then put the rest in from the top using a socket the same size as the sleeve. Piece of cake. I know I lost the material the thickness of the saw blade but I dont care. If I have to do this once a year it is not big deal. Next time I will do it in twenty minutes. Worked like a charm, did it without taking out the rack, didnt use any other material/etc and its fine now (I do have to have it aligned now as it points east, but that is to be expected). I hope this information makes it to someone who is in the same boat I have been in for the past couple months and they follow this fast, easy way to swap that stupid bushing. What genius designed that in the first place??. Anyway....
Good luck!

 

[dude1116]

ok,
my 2006 Liberty needed a driver side steering rack bushing. I read all the posts etc on line after taking my Jeep to sears to see what they would charge to do the job. $900 bucks. The Jeep dealership; over a thousand. I bought the bushing at Napa. I think it was $15 or $16 bucks. Took the Jeep by a local guy who specializes in Jeeps. He said it would take him 3 hours or so and the rack had to come out. I'm a real estate appraiser, not a mechanic, however I used to race motocross and have been working on cars, bikes, etc most of my life. I did it. It took me about an hour, hour and a half. Here is what I did. I jacked up the front wheels and left the steering unlocked so theyc ould move. I took out the two rack bolts. I played around with it a little to see what was in whats way, etc. I wound up pulling the rack forward a bit and just happened to have a hole saw exactly the diameter of the new bushing rubber. I put my cordless drill in there (took the belt off so I had more wiggle room with the drill) and ran the drill in bursts, slowly, between the old bushing sleeve and the ear ont he rack, eating the rubber from between then. This went rather quickly. Then I soeaked it with wd40. I pushed the rack back to see if I could get the old bushin out. Obviously, it hits the frame and wont come out. I pulled it froward, lifted it and put a small block of wood under it. Used a long bar and a mallet to hammer the bushing down so it was hanging out the bottom a half inch or so. I tried my sawzall but could not get it in there to hack off the bottom/flange off the bottom of the old bushing. Grabbed my hand grinder, put a new wheel on it and took the side handle off it. Got it in there and made quick work of drinding through the sleeve. Rotated it a bit with a pair of channel locks, and did it again. Then again until the flange fell off and dropped on the ground like a 2 1/2 inch washer. Pushed the remainder of the sleeve out, cleaned out the old rubber, cleaned the frame, hole, tab, etc with brake cleaner. Ok, you your asking "yeah, but how did you get the new bushing in?". That bushing cost sixteen bucks. I cut it about a half inch from the flange and made it two pieces. Cleaned it up, and put the bottom/flange part under the rack, in the hole in the tab, then put the rest in from the top using a socket the same size as the sleeve. Piece of cake. I know I lost the material the thickness of the saw blade but I dont care. If I have to do this once a year it is not big deal. Next time I will do it in twenty minutes. Worked like a charm, did it without taking out the rack, didnt use any other material/etc and its fine now (I do have to have it aligned now as it points east, but that is to be expected). I hope this information makes it to someone who is in the same boat I have been in for the past couple months and they follow this fast, easy way to swap that stupid bushing. What genius designed that in the first place??. Anyway....
Good luck!

Might have to nerve up and try this one day. Thanks for the info!

 

[CALIKJ]

Im new to this forum and having the hardest time finding my way around. But im currently replacing my rack and pinion on my 02 kj 4wd. I have it on jack stands already with wheels off. However the 21 mm bolts on my tie rod are seized and rusted. They will not come off with my impact. Next im going to try a breaker bar and some heat. Should i a) try removing them with the breaker bar and a cheater bar and use full force until they come off. Or b) should i remove the 13mm bolt that connects the steering shaft to the rack and pinion first and lightly hammer tap the shaft free and then proceed to loosen the 21mm tie rod bolts with full force? Please help thanks

 

[krisP]

Im new to this forum and having the hardest time finding my way around. But im currently replacing my rack and pinion on my 02 kj 4wd. I have it on jack stands already with wheels off. However the 21 mm bolts on my tie rod are seized and rusted. They will not come off with my impact. Next im going to try a breaker bar and some heat. Should i a) try removing them with the breaker bar and a cheater bar and use full force until they come off. Or b) should i remove the 13mm bolt that connects the steering shaft to the rack and pinion first and lightly hammer tap the shaft free and then proceed to loosen the 21mm tie rod bolts with full force? Please help thanks

put the nut back on so its flush with the bottom of the stud and whack it with a hammer