AutoXSS
Full Access Member
Anyone know the torque spec on both sides of the DS?
How To: Change front driveshaft / change a driveshaft head
- Thread starter twack
- Start date
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CactusJacked
Full Access Member
Since it's nearly impossible to get a torque wrench on the back bolts, I went by feel for them all, and tightened them to approximately 1.5 grunts. :gr_grin:
AutoXSS
Full Access Member
Ah..yes, the grunt system. I have those tools. Thanks
uss2defiant
Full Access Member
12-14 ft lbs
Road_Runna
New Member
Speaking of the frontdriveshaft , I had to remove mines while I was working on another project. Just yesterday after taking it for a spin (on 2Wd) got some smoke in the engine bay, looked under the car I found out there was a splatter of grease coming out from the between the cv joint to where the companion flange I'll try to get a pic.
Today I put it on 4wd, I keep getting a louder than normal clunking sound when I shift between D and R only on 4WD this doesnt happen in 2wd
Question: does the front driveshaft have to be aligned in a special relationship to both transfer case and front diff
you can see ghe little bit of grease just coming from were the diff connects to the front diff.
btw its an 02 lib 3.7l
Today I put it on 4wd, I keep getting a louder than normal clunking sound when I shift between D and R only on 4WD this doesnt happen in 2wd
Question: does the front driveshaft have to be aligned in a special relationship to both transfer case and front diff
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you can see ghe little bit of grease just coming from were the diff connects to the front diff.
btw its an 02 lib 3.7l
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Shouldn't matter how it's put back in. At least I've never paid attention to it.
j-rod
Full Access Member
It appears driveshaftparts.com is currently out of the diff side rebuild kit. Anyone know another place?
I have 2-3 shafts here to rebuild. ASAP as the snow is about to fly.
I am going to call them here and check on availability but going to need alternate source also.
I have 2-3 shafts here to rebuild. ASAP as the snow is about to fly.
I am going to call them here and check on availability but going to need alternate source also.
uss2defiant
Full Access Member
definitely call them.
Good CS.
Good CS.
j-rod
Full Access Member
Just did.
he said they are in the harbor (I'm assuming overseas shipment lol) and he will have them in by first of next week or end of this week.
How often do you all see the diff side failing? The only reason we were doing them is cause the shaft was already out. And I put a small ding in my dust cover of my wife's KJ drive shaft on the diff side. :favorites68:
CactusJacked
Full Access Member
Diff side doesn't go bad all that often. I did replace both ends when I did mine, only because it made more sense to since the shaft was out and in my hands. I got the CV ends kit from rockauto.
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
The diff end isn't much of a problem - it's the transfer case end that gets road debris flung up against it thanks to it's exposure. The diff end holds up really well - I've never replaced mine and I just turned 188,000 miles today.
Bob
In 218,000 on my black one rear twice, front still stock
Perps
New Member
Question about removal and re-install:
I see the the pictures from this tutorial that the exhaust line goes right under the front joint (as does mine). That combined with the black brace under the rear joint was making it impossible to remove the shaft from the space it's in. Has no one else run into this issue? (I was able to remove the shaft b/c the rear joint literally pulled right off the shaft while I was removing it under the truck. I would not have been able to get it out from the exhaust pipe and brace if it weren't for this.) But I've tried all different angels to get it back in with the new rear joint installed and can't with those two obstructions. Any ideas/suggestions?
Attached picture shows the exhaust and black brace obstructing removal/installation.
I see the the pictures from this tutorial that the exhaust line goes right under the front joint (as does mine). That combined with the black brace under the rear joint was making it impossible to remove the shaft from the space it's in. Has no one else run into this issue? (I was able to remove the shaft b/c the rear joint literally pulled right off the shaft while I was removing it under the truck. I would not have been able to get it out from the exhaust pipe and brace if it weren't for this.) But I've tried all different angels to get it back in with the new rear joint installed and can't with those two obstructions. Any ideas/suggestions?
Attached picture shows the exhaust and black brace obstructing removal/installation.
Attachments
From my member thread:
Followed the same procedure I figured out during the ****** swap, using my 1-1/16" wrench against the transfer case end of the shaft and a bfh with one whack to get it loose, then tap&turn ad infinitum on the diff end to get it loose. T-case end goes up, diff end comes down, then thread the shaft out to get the t-case end out near the front of the ****** where the opening is bigger.
Followed the same procedure I figured out during the ****** swap, using my 1-1/16" wrench against the transfer case end of the shaft and a bfh with one whack to get it loose, then tap&turn ad infinitum on the diff end to get it loose. T-case end goes up, diff end comes down, then thread the shaft out to get the t-case end out near the front of the ****** where the opening is bigger.
uss2defiant
Full Access Member
1. thread the shaft from the front to the back, going above the exhaust.
2. put rear cv to the left of the TF case, between the case and the side
3. put front CV in
4. push forward on the shaft which should allow you to put the rear CV in it's spot.
2. put rear cv to the left of the TF case, between the case and the side
3. put front CV in
4. push forward on the shaft which should allow you to put the rear CV in it's spot.
Perps
New Member
I just bought this Liberty last year, and I don't know but maybe this is an aftermarket exhaust system (doesn't look like it though) but I don't have that freedom of route you guys are explaining. The front CV has some play but not enough to get past the exhaust pipe. Super frustrating.
My next thought is to disconnect the exhaust in the picture but I couldn't get the bolts to break loose with my weak tools and also don't know if that's a good or bad idea.
My next thought is to disconnect the exhaust in the picture but I couldn't get the bolts to break loose with my weak tools and also don't know if that's a good or bad idea.
uss2defiant
Full Access Member
keep trying. you'll eventually get it.
Took me a few tries as well.
but you need to thread it w/ the rear CV from front to back not the other way around like I think you're explaining what you're trying. (not sure)
Hopefully this will give you a better idea. I think the video shows the 42RFE ****** so the exhaust is a little different.
[YT]hJJMqhH2PzY[/YT]
Took me a few tries as well.
but you need to thread it w/ the rear CV from front to back not the other way around like I think you're explaining what you're trying. (not sure)
Hopefully this will give you a better idea. I think the video shows the 42RFE ****** so the exhaust is a little different.
[YT]hJJMqhH2PzY[/YT]
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
On my '03 I have to loosen the bracket that holds the transfer case shifter cable - if I remember correctly there are two 15mm bolts that hold the bracket to the t-case.
Once that bracket can be moved you gain the space you need to push the t-case end of the drive shaft up just high enough to get the front end of the drive shaft in place. Then as uss2defiant said, compress the front CV and put the rear CV in the cup on the transfer case. Bolt the shifter cable bracket back in place and you're on your way.
Hope this helps...
P.S. Fill out your signature with your Jeep's details so we can help you with repairs and mods. Not knowing what year, ******, etc. you have prevents us from giving you specifics.
Bob
Once that bracket can be moved you gain the space you need to push the t-case end of the drive shaft up just high enough to get the front end of the drive shaft in place. Then as uss2defiant said, compress the front CV and put the rear CV in the cup on the transfer case. Bolt the shifter cable bracket back in place and you're on your way.
Hope this helps...
P.S. Fill out your signature with your Jeep's details so we can help you with repairs and mods. Not knowing what year, ******, etc. you have prevents us from giving you specifics.
Bob
CactusJacked
Full Access Member
Mine was a snug fit between the t-case and tunnel, but I just pushed harder to clearance the tunnel insulation. It would clear with ease if the insulation was out of the way.
