How To: Change front driveshaft / change a driveshaft head
- Thread starter twack
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
dwayne
New Member
front drive shaft jeep liberty 2003
does this apply to a 2003 jeep liberty renegade and if so where would you be able to purchase the replacement head (cbv joint and boot) I live in sherwood park alta and the jeep dealer I have contacted says that he only can supply new shaft or bolts I would appriciate if possible to know about purchacing head parts and what it might cost thank you dwayne
does this apply to a 2003 jeep liberty renegade and if so where would you be able to purchase the replacement head (cbv joint and boot) I live in sherwood park alta and the jeep dealer I have contacted says that he only can supply new shaft or bolts I would appriciate if possible to know about purchacing head parts and what it might cost thank you dwayne
Xodius
Full Access Member
Follow the link on page 1. Easy to do with no rust. 
I love the desert! Lol.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I love the desert! Lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
4x4kayak2112
Full Access Member
CatTracker
New Member
I have taken my drive shaft out and purchased a Dorman replacement bearing. I have a question though. How did you get the bearing assembly in to the cover with the boot end? Mine does not want go into cover.
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
Not sure I understand what you purchased nor what you are trying to do...
If your CV Joint at the transfer case end of your front driveshaft is bad and needs replaced you need to purchase the CV Joint assembly; I don't know what you're referencing when you say 'replacement bearing.' Once the driveshaft is out of the Jeep the CV Joint is removed (including the boot) and the new joint is installed.
Go to this page at Driveshaftparts.com to get the CV Joint you need. Scroll to the bottom of the page to see a short video on how to install the new CV Joint to your driveshaft. The kit is only $55 plus shipping.
Bob
Milesvdustin
Full Access Member
I bought the cheaper driveshaft head and it worked great. The replacement bolts it came with are Allen key style, made quick work putting it back in as opposed to the bolts. Is there a torque value on these bolts or is it goodntight?
Mangate
Full Access Member
22 ft. Lbs from the FSM
caleb6
New Member
So, new member here. Hi all!
I got the front driveshaft off - after stripping one of the front bolts. Darn it!
The rear (TC) side CV joint is toast and was making a racket for years, yes years. The front CV joint is also toast - the boot has rips in it.
How do I replace the front joint? this thread covers the rear (TC) side one, is there one for the front boot CV replacement too?
thanks guys.
I got the front driveshaft off - after stripping one of the front bolts. Darn it!
The rear (TC) side CV joint is toast and was making a racket for years, yes years. The front CV joint is also toast - the boot has rips in it.
How do I replace the front joint? this thread covers the rear (TC) side one, is there one for the front boot CV replacement too?
thanks guys.
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
The front CV is a slightly different design but the replacement process is essentially the same.
Get both CV's from DriveshaftParts.com.
Bob
Milesvdustin
Full Access Member
Well mine still seems to be grinding and groaning under there. Not as bad as it was. Thoughts?
Smoothmiggy
New Member
Where to get Driveshaft parts and their part numbers
Excellent posting by Mr. Twack on changing the driveshaft head. If you need the short driveshaft head in a hurry, you can get it from your local auto part under Dorman part number 932-301. If your not in a rush you can order it from driveshaftparts.com. The short driveshaft head is part number me807 and the long driveshaft head end is me709. If you just want the boot it's me807b or me709b depending on what end you need. The boots are $25.00 a piece. The short driveshaft cv is $55.00 and the long driveshaft cv is $85.00
Excellent posting by Mr. Twack on changing the driveshaft head. If you need the short driveshaft head in a hurry, you can get it from your local auto part under Dorman part number 932-301. If your not in a rush you can order it from driveshaftparts.com. The short driveshaft head is part number me807 and the long driveshaft head end is me709. If you just want the boot it's me807b or me709b depending on what end you need. The boots are $25.00 a piece. The short driveshaft cv is $55.00 and the long driveshaft cv is $85.00
Strikeking
Full Access Member
Hi guys. New to the forum and Jeeps as well. First order of business to to change this torn boot on the drive shaft. In post number #19 he asks about applying sealant to the boot side. I am also wondering about this. My kit came with 2 precut gasket that were stuck together. They were both in the cap side not the boot side. Just wondering, do I seperate and use one on each side. Or double up the 2 and use on the transfer case side and then use sealant on the boot side?? What did everyone else do? I was thinking of using 1 gasket on each side as well as a small bead of ultra black. Thoughts. Thanks very much.
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
Split the gaskets. You want one on each side of the joint.
Bob
Bob
Strikeking
Full Access Member
Thanks bob. So no need for any sealant then? Also did u guys press together the the the 2 sides before putting the driveshaft back in? The boot side is a tight pressure fit. I think I will need a clamp to pop it on. Or maybe feed the bolt thru and and use nuts to tighten it into position. The dust cap end is not so tight. Thanks again.
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
Yep, align the bolt holes then just press the cap on. If it's too loose to keep the bolt holes lined up, bend in the edges of the cap so there's more of a press fit onto the joint. Then slide the diff end in first, compress the CV joint on that end and fit the T-case end into the yoke. I always use a long, thin screwdriver to align the bolt holes between the CV joints and their respective yokes. Get one bolt started on each end and then tighten everything up.
Let us know how it goes!
Bob
Strikeking
Full Access Member
So when I am removing / installing the drive shaft the CV joint will compress a bit to give clearance to remove it from the yolk. Then lift it up and over the transfer case to kind of pull it out from the yolk on the front diff?? Also how long do you let the rtv sealant dry before u go wheeling???
Last edited:
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
You may need to remove the three 15mm bolts holding the T-case shift cable bracket. I have to do that to allow enough room to lift the driveshaft up and over the T-case yoke so I can then slide it out between the exhaust cross pipe and the differential yoke. Others don't need to get the shift cable bracket out of the way so give it a shot.
The bracket doesn't have to be removed - just take out the three bolts so the bracket can be moved enough to give you room to remove the driveshaft.
Oh yeah - once the driveshaft is back in GO WHEELING! Plenty of folks make repairs on the trail and just keep going! (wrangler)
eace:Bob
Strikeking
Full Access Member
Hey thanks bob. Is there any chance of damaging that cv on the diff end by pulling on the drive shaft? There is quite a bit of length travel on that end. Is there a snap ring on that end as well that keeps it from coming all the way out? Thanks bye the way for everyone's input. I'd be lost without it. Oh and bye the way. To crack it free I had the transfer case side free then had to put a small pipe wrench on the drive shaft with a rag wrapped around it. Then I was able to spin the cv inside the front yolk to loosen it. Then tapped it out gently with a hammer. Does anyone lock tite the bolts when re installing?
Last edited:
