JeepJeepster
Full Access Member
This was alittle more involved than I thought it was going to be. For one thing, having a lifted Jeep with bigger tires makes it a pain in the rear to work on anything in the engine bay. This was the first time working on it with the new tires on it and I can tell a big difference.
Three on each side as I sure everyone knows. The three on the drivers side was pretty much a snap. I used a 6in extension on the 5/8 sparkplug socket and a 3in on top of that.
Pop these little guys off first by grasping the base of them and pulling straight up. They are on there kinda good but there is only two of them. Both are on the Drivers side.
The coil takes a 10mm socket. Pull straight up and they just pop out. BE SURE you use compressed air to blow any sand and crap out from around the spark plug before you take the plug out. It was amazing how much crap I blew out once I took the coil out.
Plugs didnt seem to be in bad shape at all other than being gapped way to much. They were rusted to heck thanks to me detailing the engine to much.
New plugs. I got some Autolite Double Platinum's. I forgot to check the gap on the first two, but the other 4 seemed to be right at .040 which is what the 3.7 calls for.
I cleaned the seals up on the coil and put some Dielectric grease all over the seal, outside of the boot, and inside of the boot. I also put Anti-seize on the spark plug threads along with some Di-electric grease on the plugs ceramic. If you dont do this, the socket will get stuck on the new plug once you tighten it back into the head. Good luck with getting that socket back out if you forget to put grease on the plug as its deep in the engine.
I had to use two 6" extensions along with the 3" on the passengers side. The front two were not that bad, but watch the dip-stick on the middle one, I can see someone breaking the yellow handle off of it or bending the tube.
The back plug needed a swivel joint and my joint was lacking in performance. I did not need to take the coolant tank off but it would give you more room. I suggest picking up a good swivel with a ball joint in it and not a ujoint type. I was worried I was going to break the plug off as its hard to hold the socket on straight and turn the ratchet at the same time. Its best to have someone hold the other extensions on the socket while you turn the ratchet. This is what I used:
here is the type Im talking about:
This is what I used:
Take care not to over tighten either the spark plug or the nut on the coil. The coil doesnt need much at all as its plastic. Im not sure what the torque value is on the spark plug, I just tighten it till I feel the washer bottom out.
Take your time and dont rush through something like this. It ended up taking me around 1-1.5hours but I was just doing it at my own pace. No use in getting in a hurry with something like this and screwing something up. Take care around all the vacuum hoses and such too. There is a ton of them and it would be easy to break one of them off.
Ohh, and watch the seals in the plugs that connect to the coils when you take them off. I had one fall out and it just happened to fall in my hand when I took the plug off of the coil. It got dark on me when I was done, but Im going to pop all the of the plugs back off and check all of them to make sure none of the others fell out before I start it up or drive it.
Edit: One thing I want to add, make sure you thread the plugs in by hand before tightening them down. This way you can make sure nothing gets cross threaded before you torque them down..
Three on each side as I sure everyone knows. The three on the drivers side was pretty much a snap. I used a 6in extension on the 5/8 sparkplug socket and a 3in on top of that.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Pop these little guys off first by grasping the base of them and pulling straight up. They are on there kinda good but there is only two of them. Both are on the Drivers side.
You must be registered for see images attach
The coil takes a 10mm socket. Pull straight up and they just pop out. BE SURE you use compressed air to blow any sand and crap out from around the spark plug before you take the plug out. It was amazing how much crap I blew out once I took the coil out.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Plugs didnt seem to be in bad shape at all other than being gapped way to much. They were rusted to heck thanks to me detailing the engine to much.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
New plugs. I got some Autolite Double Platinum's. I forgot to check the gap on the first two, but the other 4 seemed to be right at .040 which is what the 3.7 calls for.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
I cleaned the seals up on the coil and put some Dielectric grease all over the seal, outside of the boot, and inside of the boot. I also put Anti-seize on the spark plug threads along with some Di-electric grease on the plugs ceramic. If you dont do this, the socket will get stuck on the new plug once you tighten it back into the head. Good luck with getting that socket back out if you forget to put grease on the plug as its deep in the engine.
You must be registered for see images attach
I had to use two 6" extensions along with the 3" on the passengers side. The front two were not that bad, but watch the dip-stick on the middle one, I can see someone breaking the yellow handle off of it or bending the tube.
The back plug needed a swivel joint and my joint was lacking in performance. I did not need to take the coolant tank off but it would give you more room. I suggest picking up a good swivel with a ball joint in it and not a ujoint type. I was worried I was going to break the plug off as its hard to hold the socket on straight and turn the ratchet at the same time. Its best to have someone hold the other extensions on the socket while you turn the ratchet. This is what I used:
You must be registered for see images attach
here is the type Im talking about:
You must be registered for see images
This is what I used:
You must be registered for see images attach
Take care not to over tighten either the spark plug or the nut on the coil. The coil doesnt need much at all as its plastic. Im not sure what the torque value is on the spark plug, I just tighten it till I feel the washer bottom out.
Take your time and dont rush through something like this. It ended up taking me around 1-1.5hours but I was just doing it at my own pace. No use in getting in a hurry with something like this and screwing something up. Take care around all the vacuum hoses and such too. There is a ton of them and it would be easy to break one of them off.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Ohh, and watch the seals in the plugs that connect to the coils when you take them off. I had one fall out and it just happened to fall in my hand when I took the plug off of the coil. It got dark on me when I was done, but Im going to pop all the of the plugs back off and check all of them to make sure none of the others fell out before I start it up or drive it.
Edit: One thing I want to add, make sure you thread the plugs in by hand before tightening them down. This way you can make sure nothing gets cross threaded before you torque them down..
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