HOW TO: low profile cross bars

[NJallDAY]

Theres a ton of options when it comes to roof rack cross bars. The most expensive being factory or name brand systems such as thule. Another rout is the simple 2x4 and u bolts, serves its purpose but an eye sore imo. Below is a quick write up for a low profile, strong, and aesthetically pleasing set of cross bars. they produce very little wind noise and i havent seen any significant reduction in mpg. Im writing this after the fact so i dont have as many detailed pictures as i would like.

What youll need:
TOOLS
*hack saw, sawzall really anything that can cut metal
*tape measure
* a couple wrenches or adjustable to keep it simple
MATERIALS
*1 3/8" chain link fence top rail (comes in 10' sections) or equivalent tubing
*4 T clamps (i got mine from an awing installer for $6 each)

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* Paint of your choice

step one:
Take your tape measure and take measurement at the front end of your side rails and measure inside to inside. now take a measurement at the rear section Make sure you take both measurements as the rear section isnt as wide as the front
FRONT about 40 3/4

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Rear about 38 3/4

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Step two
Break out your hack saw or what ever you will be using to cut and lay down your first measurement. Take a 1/2 inch off the number for some wiggle room and remember measure twice cut once. now cut your piece and do the same with your second measurement also removing a 1/2 inch from the number.

Step three
now that your pipes are cut take your clamps and fit them onto your pipes and mock them up to your side rails.

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Heres where things get a bit tricky, you may need to bend your tubing to prevent them from resting on your roof. i know someone who used the same method and had no problem. Myself on the other hand had to bend them. I tried it on my own but couldnt get them to budge. so i brought them to my local meineke and they bent them for free. Any shop with a tubing bender should do it for free if you catch them in a good mood. Its a very subtle bend maybe a half inch past straight.

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step four if everything fits good go ahead and paint or plasti dip everything. All the material should be galvanized steel so you wont have any issues with rust. a good idea is to get some rubber pipe insulation and wrap the bars with that and some zip ties. (pool noodles work good too).

step five after your paint dries or how ever you decided to finish them, position them on your side rails in the desired position and tighten everything up. and now you have set of strong cheap and good looking cross bars! I had 20 2x4's strapped on and they didnt flex at all.


Hope someone finds this useful

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Excellent write up!

Good alternative for the T clamps - any guesses on where else they may be available if no awning installers are nearby?

Bob

 

[NJallDAY]

Ummm i think grainger has some steel structure parts you may be able to use. If not look online. I saw a write up on lost and he used something similar only instead of it being a 2 piece clamp it was open on the bottom and it had a bolt to close the gap. Let me see if i can find the link for you

 

[NJallDAY]

Cant find the link for those other clamps. If theres a tractor supply near you they most likely can order you something that will work. Just ask to flip through a catalog so you know your getting the right parts. Shipping played a big role it what i used thats why i went With the awning clamps. Not sure where your located and if theres anything close to you. Thats whatz good about jersey i can ge just about anything within a 20 min drive

 

[NJallDAY]

Excellent write up!

Good alternative for the T clamps - any guesses on where else they may be available if no awning installers are nearby?

Bob

Any luck finding clamps?

 

[NJallDAY]

This is what i was originally going to use.
16 - Clamp-on Tee Kee Klamp Fitting - Simplified Building, Kee Klamp, Railings, Connectors and Structural Solutions,

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[Pippobug]

Hi ,
i wander if you can help, I am looking to do the same thing, any chance you could tell me the exact part numers you used for the clamps please? I am in the UK so it's a bit harder to get this stuff over here but I have found someone on line that might just have it, but they need the correct part number and and diameter.
Fil.

 

[NJallDAY]

Hi ,
i wander if you can help, I am looking to do the same thing, any chance you could tell me the exact part numers you used for the clamps please? I am in the UK so it's a bit harder to get this stuff over here but I have found someone on line that might just have it, but they need the correct part number and and diameter.
Fil.

Honestly if you have to order your parts from a company state side it may be cheaper just to buy a set of thules or mopar. Shipping might dwindle away any savings buy building it yourself but any way....

I dont have any part numbers for what i used. I just walked into an awning installers shop and asked if i could buy the clamps. Im sure you can find them online if you dont have such business' where you reside. Or you can use the link i posted, not the cheapest route but they will work just fine. I used 1 3/8" railing used for chain link fence. Not sure if you have home depots over there but any home improvement store should carry it or be able to order it for you. Best of luck to you

 

[brokendad]

Dip

This is what i was originally going to use.
16 - Clamp-on Tee Kee Klamp Fitting - Simplified Building, Kee Klamp, Railings, Connectors and Structural Solutions,

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

If you use the 1/38" tubing for the crossbars look in the chain link fence dept. They make a two piece right angle clamp, it is galvanized but you can buy Plasti Dip and dip the clamps this will stop any vibrations and give you extra friction for a stronger union. they are less than $2 at Lowes the Dip is Around $7 and you can dip the handles of your pliers while you are at it.

 

[NJallDAY]

If you use the 1/38" tubing for the crossbars look in the chain link fence dept. They make a two piece right angle clamp, it is galvanized but you can buy Plasti Dip and dip the clamps this will stop any vibrations and give you extra friction for a stronger union. they are less than $2 at Lowes the Dip is Around $7 and you can dip the handles of your pliers while you are at it.

Plastidip is a great product. Not all your home depots and lowes carry all chain link parts. I was thinking about using those but it wasnt in stock, had to order them. Chain link isnt selling like it has in previous years. Most likely due to cheaper alternatives that last longer and look better. But i digress, really any clamp like that would work. There is such a vast array of hardware that would work we could go on for days debating whats better. Bottom line, use whats available to you and make sure it can hold weight before you load it up. I would love to see what alterations you guys can come up with!

 

[Stadam]

I know this is an old thread but found a part for those interested.

Slip Fit Front Bar Fitting 3/4" x 3/4" Awning Hardware

It's an adjustable T bar for 3/4" awning pipe. So EMT conduit or any 3/4" tubing could be used. They also carry a 1" version.

EDIT

Found a much cheaper option!
https://chainlinkfittings.com/store...-clamps.html?gclid=CN_su4_W3cQCFQmVfgodB5cAAA

 

[uss2defiant]

just got an old model x-cargo box.

Thinking about this route.
How is this setup holding up for everyone?

 

[dude1116]

just got an old model x-cargo box.

Thinking about this route.
How is this setup holding up for everyone?

I did this less than a year ago and these things are STURDY. They look good too.

That being said...I used a different style clamp which I WOULDN'T suggest. Try something like the OP had...as I had issues getting mine to tighten up to the stock bars on the Jeep. Tightening them to the fence post was very simple.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I wouldn't hesitate to use this design. I built some differently out of aluminum square tubing that sit on top of the roof rails and fasten with U bolts for my ski rack (had to have it sit on top since otherwise ski and snowboard bindings would hit the roof) and it's held up great, the setup in this how to would be better yet for strength. Hell the Yakima crossbars I have for the LR3 mount using mostly plastic, the Thule cargo box attaches mainly using plastic.....I'd say these crossbars are sturdier than whatever mounts to them.

 

[uss2defiant]

I wouldn't hesitate to use this design. I built some differently out of aluminum square tubing that sit on top of the roof rails and fasten with U bolts for my ski rack (had to have it sit on top since otherwise ski and snowboard bindings would hit the roof) and it's held up great, the setup in this how to would be better yet for strength. Hell the Yakima crossbars I have for the LR3 mount using mostly plastic, the Thule cargo box attaches mainly using plastic.....I'd say these crossbars are sturdier than whatever mounts to them.

I was contemplating either this design or the square tubing design you mentioned.
I suppose I'll go with whatever parts I can buy locally.

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[dude1116]

This was the style clamp that I used:

Fittings & Railing | Kee Klamp Fittings | Kee Safety - 16 5 - Clamp on Tee, 3/4" Dia. | 296382 - GlobalIndustrial.com

(not sure on the size at the moment)

The problem was the side bolt would tighten the the stock bars and eventually just scratch the hell out of them and pop the cross bars OFF of the Jeep.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I was contemplating either this design or the square tubing design you mentioned.
I suppose I'll go with whatever parts I can buy locally.

Thanks for the feedback.

That's what led me to the square tubing. Plus I needed something that I could put on or take off quickly. Takes 5-10 minutes depending on how cold it is to put it on or take it off. :happy175:

 

[uss2defiant]

The problem was the side bolt would tighten the the stock bars and eventually just scratch the hell out of them and pop the cross bars OFF of the Jeep.

Good to know. This was the last on my option list.

That's what led me to the square tubing. Plus I needed something that I could put on or take off quickly. Takes 5-10 minutes depending on how cold it is to put it on or take it off. :happy175:

I'm leaning towards the Tee clamp option since I can leave the crossbars on.

It was either leaving the crossbars on the jeep or leaving the crossbars mounted to the cargo box. Since keeping the crossbars mounted on the cargo box would make it cumbersome to store with what options I have, it looks like I'll be going with the Tee clamp option.

I bought a 2nd generation x-cargo box used
Sears.com
and the U bolts that came with it limits the pipe diameter of the crossbars I can use. I haven't been able to find a standard U bolt that'll work without drilling new holes which I want to avoid.

But I think I can use a 1" IMC conduit which has an OD a little under 1-3/8" which is the limit with the existing U bolt.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Actually, I find it way easier to keep some tubing as cross bars on the cargo box. I put my thule on some tubes and hang it from those in the garage. I can get a pic later if you'd like. But, yeah, any pipe will work for that purpose. And the low pro cross bars are definitely the pick if you plan to leave them on.

 

[uss2defiant]

Unfortunately, I don't have a garage but a storage unit so it'll be kept in there on its side so leave the cross bars on the box is not going to work since the bars will be wider than the width of the box. No need for pics. Thanks.

I just hope this route is strong enough since there's going to be a lot of wind drag on that big cargo box.