How To Starter Replacement

[LibertyFever]

I've begun to notice that lately my Libby doesn't easily start. The starter may be failing. Reading through the service manuals it appears that I have to partially dismantle the exhaust manifold, is this true?

 

[Bulli]

On the 2.4 and 3.7 i know you have to remove a piece of the down pipe, 2 clamps. Diesels not to sure.

 

[LibertyFever]

On the 2.4 and 3.7 i know you have to remove a piece of the down pipe, 2 clamps. Diesels not to sure.

Doh!

Sorry, I should have mentioned that my Libby is 3.7 L V6 gas powered.

I haven't actually poked my head under the hood yet (it's been raining for the past three days) but from studying the service manual I seem to understand where the starter is and why the manifold must be partially dismantled.

 

[LibertyFever]

Okay an update for everybody.

The starter problem has begun to get worse quickly. It's not likely going to last the week and I have plans for an anual trail run this upcoming weekend.

I've shopped around for a new starter and the cost of rebuilding the old one.

#1. I don't have the time to remove my old one and have it rebuilt
#2. if I buy an aftermarket there's a chance I'll get a model that won't fit so I'm going with a Mopar/Jeep brand new replacement (approx. $150)
#3. I've found where the starter is on the engine and understand now why the manifold has to be disconnected. It's a real tight spot.
#4. but the bolts require a short 10mm socket that I don't happen to have and they're in such a tight place that I can't budge them, not even the manifold nut
#5. I have buddies of mine who are more than willing to help me replace the starter but I'm pressed for time & I really don't want to impose on them with what will likely be a frustrating job

So I'm biting the bullet and orderings replacement starter from Mopar & having a local garage replace it for me. Maybe I'll have the old one rebuilt for the next time.

 

[JeepCoMJ]

I just did a starter on an 02 3.7l limited today, without removing the exhaust manifolds at all.

Tools needed;

3/8 drive 15mm 6 point deep and shallow sockets
3/8 drive 6" extension
3/8 drive air ratchet
3/8 drive impact
1/4 drive 13mm deep well socket, 6 point
1/4 drive 8mm deep well socket
1/4 drive 6" extension (preferably swivel type extension)
1/4 drive fine tooth ratchet
10mm ratchet wrench
small flat head or right angle pick
12" pry bar
small hammer (1/2lb ball pin worked just dandy)

I started by disconnecting the battery, then removing the driveshaft bolts on both ends, then adjusting it and sliding it up and out of the way.

After that, I took off the transmission to engine bellhousing brace. This is what the 3/8" extension and both 15mm sockets and the both air guns (ratchet and impact) are for.

After that, I removed the heat shield from the starter, via the 3 10mm bolts (this is what the ratchet wrench is for. the Gear Wrench Flex-beams work nice for this)

Then I unclipped the ignition engage wire from the starter with the right angle pick, and unbolted the plug adapter from the starter using the 1/4" ratchet, extension with swivel, and 8mm socket.

Then use the 13mm deep 1/4" drive socket and ratchet without extension to unbolt the positive cable

Following this, I unbolted the starter from the block. Once it was free, I was able to turn it 180 degrees so the solenoid was facing between the bell housing and the front pinion yoke.

Slid it down, wiggled, realigned, slid it down further, where it bound just a tiny bit on the upper driver catalytic converter. At this point, I was able to slide the pry bar between the bell housing and starter, and coax it the last 1/4" to watch it drop to the floor.


straight into the scrap pile, grab new starter, orient it appropriately, slide it in until it binds, and use a 1/2lb hammer to tap it in until it is just past binding, then realign and install opposite of removal process.


I ended up deciding to go this route for two reasons.
1.) my hands don't fit in by the exhaust manifolds to disconnect the upper 02 sensors
2.) even in the best situation, a spring-loaded exhaust clamp, and a flange clamp, once they've started rusting, are NOT going to come out easily.



Worked great for me, everything is ready to go.

 

[WyldWolf777]

I just did a starter on an 02 3.7l limited today, without removing the exhaust manifolds at all.

Tools needed;

3/8 drive 15mm 6 point deep and shallow sockets
3/8 drive 6" extension
3/8 drive air ratchet
3/8 drive impact
1/4 drive 13mm deep well socket, 6 point
1/4 drive 8mm deep well socket
1/4 drive 6" extension (preferably swivel type extension)
1/4 drive fine tooth ratchet
10mm ratchet wrench
small flat head or right angle pick
12" pry bar
small hammer (1/2lb ball pin worked just dandy)

I started by disconnecting the battery, then removing the driveshaft bolts on both ends, then adjusting it and sliding it up and out of the way.

After that, I took off the transmission to engine bellhousing brace. This is what the 3/8" extension and both 15mm sockets and the both air guns (ratchet and impact) are for.

After that, I removed the heat shield from the starter, via the 3 10mm bolts (this is what the ratchet wrench is for. the Gear Wrench Flex-beams work nice for this)

Then I unclipped the ignition engage wire from the starter with the right angle pick, and unbolted the plug adapter from the starter using the 1/4" ratchet, extension with swivel, and 8mm socket.

Then use the 13mm deep 1/4" drive socket and ratchet without extension to unbolt the positive cable

Following this, I unbolted the starter from the block. Once it was free, I was able to turn it 180 degrees so the solenoid was facing between the bell housing and the front pinion yoke.

Slid it down, wiggled, realigned, slid it down further, where it bound just a tiny bit on the upper driver catalytic converter. At this point, I was able to slide the pry bar between the bell housing and starter, and coax it the last 1/4" to watch it drop to the floor.


straight into the scrap pile, grab new starter, orient it appropriately, slide it in until it binds, and use a 1/2lb hammer to tap it in until it is just past binding, then realign and install opposite of removal process.


I ended up deciding to go this route for two reasons.
1.) my hands don't fit in by the exhaust manifolds to disconnect the upper 02 sensors
2.) even in the best situation, a spring-loaded exhaust clamp, and a ****** clamp, once they've started rusting, are NOT going to come out easily.



Worked great for me, everything is ready to go.

This is excellent with great detail. Thanks

 

[Ramboflorence]

I've begun to notice that lately my Libby doesn't easily start. The starter may be failing. Reading through the service manuals it appears that I have to partially dismantle the exhaust manifold, is this true?

I found it easier to take the starter apart to get it past the exhaust

 

[jeepop]

I found it easier to remove the propeller shaft on my 06 4X4 before removing the starter.

Also, I got better bite on the prop shaft bolts with a 5/16th vs a 8 mm socket.

 

[Deb'nKJ]

I've just read this with some trepidation, because, as far as I can make out, I need to remove the starter to undo the manifold/downpipe clamp - because the exhaust needs to be removed to get the front driveshaft out. Vicious circle/Catch 22/can of worms/one way trip to the scrapper - you decide.

 

[mercdudecbr600]

I've just read this with some trepidation, because, as far as I can make out, I need to remove the starter to undo the manifold/downpipe clamp - because the exhaust needs to be removed to get the front driveshaft out. Vicious circle/Catch 22/can of worms/one way trip to the scrapper - you decide.

Nah. Driveshaft comes out without removing exhaust and to get more room I found just looosening the manifolds v clamp and then removing intermediate exhaust bolts gave enough room to navigate a starter in/out. I didn’t have to resort to prying or hammering but Have to rotate it 180 to get to slide in though. 2-3 hr job never doing it before. I have 02 kj

 

[Deb'nKJ]

In the event, I did get the drive shaft out before the exhaust, but as the exhaust had to come off anyway, it would've been so much easier if it'd been out of the way first.

Secondly, I was finally able to undo the manifold clamp, but how/why it'd been fitted that may round, so as the bolt was almost touching the starter, I'll never understand.

When this job is finally done I will feel a huge sense of relief - but no satisfaction, no sense of achievement, & that's what I resent about the grief entailed in working on a KJ; it's just so unrewarding. (or so I find it to be)

 

[KJowner]

I quite like them, compared to modern cars they are a joy to work on.... try a cam chain on a 2.0 dci... so glad I don't do it for a living!

 

[Deb'nKJ]

In my book, it is a modern car - &, perhaps, that's the problem: too much packed into too small a package!

No joy for me in the simplest thing being needlessly difficult/time consuming because of abysmal access. That said, once I can start driving it again all these months of grief will probably be forgotten - unless it's a one way trip to the scrapyard, which has always been a possibility.

 

[mercdudecbr600]

Modernish I’d say. Just the right amount of goodies before things get really complicated

 

[Deb'nKJ]

Modernish I’d say. Just the right amount of goodies before things get really complicated

While that might've been true 40 years ago, the KJ is really quite basic but it's operating systems (like all its contemporaries) are already needlessly complicated. Of course that is largely due to the fact that vehicles now are designed by accountants to meet government targets & everything else is secondary.
As a result, the KJ is as awful to work on as it is nice to drive. However, the issue is not specs or complexity but access & the way Jeep seem to have gone out of their way to make the simplest job as complicated - & time consuming - as possible.
.

 

[duderz7]

There are vehicles that are easier of course, but there are many that are far worse.

 

[Deb'nKJ]

I'm sure that's right but the only one I've encountered is the original Mini: the only thing I eventually refused to work on.

Unfortunately, that doesn't commend the KJ as a D-i-Y prospect or endear it to me, which is a shame 'cos I really hoped it would.

 

[KJowner]

I did a head on a Mini one, at least they are featherweight.....

 

[Deb'nKJ]

I did a head on a Mini one, at least they are featherweight.....

Bypass hose is a pig, fanbelt on a Cooper's well nigh impossible but it was doing the points on a van (non-removable grille) that finished them for me.

On the other hand, 3 or 4 of us went out to a mate's Mini & replaced the front subframe on the grass by the side of the road.

 

[mercdudecbr600]

While that might've been true 40 years ago, the KJ is really quite basic but it's operating systems (like all its contemporaries) are already needlessly complicated. Of course that is largely due to the fact that vehicles now are designed by accountants to meet government targets & everything else is secondary.
As a result, the KJ is as awful to work on as it is nice to drive. However, the issue is not specs or complexity but access & the way Jeep seem to have gone out of their way to make the simplest job as complicated - & time consuming - as possible.
.

It somewhat depends on your year. Mine is the pre-facelift (2002), so it has a cable throttle body, etc. and is marginally simpler.

Overall though, if you consider how small this vehicle is, it is a marvel that they were able to pack a real 4wd system with mechanical TC, decent V6, IFS, ABS, etc., in one package. I can't think of another vehicle this size that has as many (real) functional features - not a RAV4, CRV, Escape, not even a wrangler (4 door is much larger).