08 liberty 3.7 limited. 182k miles.
My other thread talked about how it was running good after finally getting the fuel pump in. First couple days great. Didn't drive it yesterday. Today now it's acting up. I'm not going to try and start it til tomorrow, I need it cooled down. I think there's still air in the line from when I did the water pump before the fuel pump died a couple days later.
Went to tractor supply. Longest trip I've taken in it since the fuel pump was put in. Seemed to run fine. When I was getting out of the car I seemed to have felt a lot of heat coming from underneath the engine. Not leaking but seems the upper hose has a bubble. Doesn't feel like there's any fluid in it. The bleeder valve is forever on there. I already tried with heat (with a torch) and an extra long allen key even with a small pipe on it for more leverage and the bleeder valve grub screw is almost at the stripping out point.
Wasn't overheating but the idiot gauge was just a tad higher than the usual spot which is just under the half way mark. Curiosity as I thought maybe there's air in it, I flipped on the heater and blower motor doens't come on. It needs the ac recharged but no positions are spitting any air out. Hot air was naturally coming in the cabin and it was pretty toasty. The temp guage did drop to it's "usual spot" no problem. The recirculator is also blinking 4 times in all positions. I know some don't allow it to run but still nothing. The middle knob light comes on and off that has the snowflake logo above it.
I did a little troubleshooting of the blower motor. Took out the glove box and looked to see if anything was loose and everything looks ok. I looked at the fuse box and saw one of the fuses (m11) was the only one I could see that had anything to do with HVAC. So I pulled it and checked it. It's not blown.
I had the hood up still while I put the key back in and see if anything changed with the blower motor and I thought it kicked on but the radiator fan is what kicked on. And I heard this crazy noise that I thought was electrical frying. Loud buzzing and pulsing. Turns out it's all the relays are chattering and it sounds like an old pentium processor when it's working and clicking. Also the front turn signals powered on about half brightness and were flickering. After about 30 seconds the car calmed down and the lights went out.
I pulled every relay. Can still hear the soldered on relays clicking away. As far as I can tell all accessories are functioning. I tried them all. Hvac is the only thing that isn't working. I pulled the battery for a while. Hooked it back up and no change. I put my multimeter on the battery and it was reading 12.37. It's on the maintainer again and the voltage is going back up. Battery is 3 years old and It's not the high grade one. It's the mid tier. Since I was messing with the car, I can't really rule out the battery. What little I could find so far points to either the TIPM or possibly the battery. Hoping it's the battery. I've had 2 batteries completely crap out in the car and didn't do crazy things like some people have reported. So my gut tells me it's not the battery. Tipm is like 5 years old. I got it from Naks or Maks whatever it's called. I did keep my old tipm since they only offered like 40 dollars for the old one. Probably going to switch it to see if things change and check the connections. The old one was doing different things than what the car is doing now. The first one I had random headlights on and off and one or two things I can't remember.
Anyone knows of other things to test or look at, I'm all ears.
Oh and before the water pump/ fuel pump fiasco, I had the taction control, 4wd, abs lights all on. That seems to be speed sensors ( I don't have any codes) but that has gone away since I got it running again. I kind of associated that with jacking up the rear end and having to naviagate where they are plugged in getting the fuel tank out. I had wiggled the wires while I was under there
My other thread talked about how it was running good after finally getting the fuel pump in. First couple days great. Didn't drive it yesterday. Today now it's acting up. I'm not going to try and start it til tomorrow, I need it cooled down. I think there's still air in the line from when I did the water pump before the fuel pump died a couple days later.
Went to tractor supply. Longest trip I've taken in it since the fuel pump was put in. Seemed to run fine. When I was getting out of the car I seemed to have felt a lot of heat coming from underneath the engine. Not leaking but seems the upper hose has a bubble. Doesn't feel like there's any fluid in it. The bleeder valve is forever on there. I already tried with heat (with a torch) and an extra long allen key even with a small pipe on it for more leverage and the bleeder valve grub screw is almost at the stripping out point.
Wasn't overheating but the idiot gauge was just a tad higher than the usual spot which is just under the half way mark. Curiosity as I thought maybe there's air in it, I flipped on the heater and blower motor doens't come on. It needs the ac recharged but no positions are spitting any air out. Hot air was naturally coming in the cabin and it was pretty toasty. The temp guage did drop to it's "usual spot" no problem. The recirculator is also blinking 4 times in all positions. I know some don't allow it to run but still nothing. The middle knob light comes on and off that has the snowflake logo above it.
I did a little troubleshooting of the blower motor. Took out the glove box and looked to see if anything was loose and everything looks ok. I looked at the fuse box and saw one of the fuses (m11) was the only one I could see that had anything to do with HVAC. So I pulled it and checked it. It's not blown.
I had the hood up still while I put the key back in and see if anything changed with the blower motor and I thought it kicked on but the radiator fan is what kicked on. And I heard this crazy noise that I thought was electrical frying. Loud buzzing and pulsing. Turns out it's all the relays are chattering and it sounds like an old pentium processor when it's working and clicking. Also the front turn signals powered on about half brightness and were flickering. After about 30 seconds the car calmed down and the lights went out.
I pulled every relay. Can still hear the soldered on relays clicking away. As far as I can tell all accessories are functioning. I tried them all. Hvac is the only thing that isn't working. I pulled the battery for a while. Hooked it back up and no change. I put my multimeter on the battery and it was reading 12.37. It's on the maintainer again and the voltage is going back up. Battery is 3 years old and It's not the high grade one. It's the mid tier. Since I was messing with the car, I can't really rule out the battery. What little I could find so far points to either the TIPM or possibly the battery. Hoping it's the battery. I've had 2 batteries completely crap out in the car and didn't do crazy things like some people have reported. So my gut tells me it's not the battery. Tipm is like 5 years old. I got it from Naks or Maks whatever it's called. I did keep my old tipm since they only offered like 40 dollars for the old one. Probably going to switch it to see if things change and check the connections. The old one was doing different things than what the car is doing now. The first one I had random headlights on and off and one or two things I can't remember.
Anyone knows of other things to test or look at, I'm all ears.
Oh and before the water pump/ fuel pump fiasco, I had the taction control, 4wd, abs lights all on. That seems to be speed sensors ( I don't have any codes) but that has gone away since I got it running again. I kind of associated that with jacking up the rear end and having to naviagate where they are plugged in getting the fuel tank out. I had wiggled the wires while I was under there
![IMG 3855[1]](/data/xfmg/thumbnail/3/3280-338fb7297367a5c14b5d04401bcb42d7.jpg?1623784620)
