Inside Frame rust prevention

[mk_v]

What do you all use to protect the inside of your frame from rust? I saw the Eastwood internal frame coating, does anyone have experience with it? Or POR15 sprayed through a wand? I was also thinking about applying fluid film through a spray gun with a wand over top of the coating, good idea? I was washing my jeep today and saw little spots of rust inside through the drain holes on the frame.
Thanks

 

[teeje]

What do you all use to protect the inside of your frame from rust? I saw the Eastwood internal frame coating, does anyone have experience with it? Or POR15 sprayed through a wand? I was also thinking about applying fluid film through a spray gun with a wand over top of the coating, good idea? I was washing my jeep today and saw little spots of rust inside through the drain holes on the frame.
Thanks

Just get some rustoleum undercoat. Need about 4 cans. Cheaper. Either use sand paper or wire wheel to remove any rust then use brake clean and spray it I recommend using rust reformer before spraying the undercoat on

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[GunnerSchenck]

3m makes a wax based corrosion protection that comes with a wand, much like fluid film, but I've never been a fan of fluid film... don't think garage floors are much of a fan of it either..

 

[jeeplib05]

I got about 6 cans of 3M Professional Grade Undercoating last July and it's held up great all through winter
None of it has come off and it still looks good as new once cleaned

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[jeeptorino68]

How do any of the things you all mentioned get INSIDE the frame rails like the OP is asking about???

I have no personal experience to share, but have seen those kits with the wands. Seems reasonable enough.

 

[renegade 04]

The Eastwood stuff is very easy to use. What I did was tape off the frame holes where you are not spraying, and I also taped the spray hose to a coat hanger and it worked well.

 

[mk_v]

Thanks for the input, I made the plunge and bought the internal frame coating set up to use with a spray gun with a wand. I picked up some wire brushes to put on my drill to try and get in through the drain holes and up into the frame. I won't get it done until temps warm up enough for the paint to cure correctly. And for Montana I'm guessing that'll be May. If anyone is interested I could post up the end results.


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[ltd02]

I'd like to see the end result. I have three vehicles (1 KJ) that needs some of this attention.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

How do any of the things you all mentioned get INSIDE the frame rails like the OP is asking about???

I have no personal experience to share, but have seen those kits with the wands. Seems reasonable enough.

If you actually read what I said, I mentioned the want to get inside the frame. Try searching for a 3m wax based corrosion protection spray with a wand.
It's just a canister, that rather than having a spray nozzle, has an 18" wand. The wand has 360° spray as well so there's no need to rotate. You simply feed it in, pull the trigger as you slowly pull back.
That's how it gets INSIDE the frame rails...

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Cavity Wax Plus - Featured Products - Products
Used to be known as 3m "rust fighter" but ended up getting kicked for not being voc compliant, so in comes cavity wax.
Works wonders. Comes with 3 different length wands too

 

[sota]

anyone thought about filling the rails with a closed cell expansion foam, after a liberal coating or two inside the rails with some kind of protectant?

 

[TheBlueKJ]

As far as I know the foam holds water so it would rot it out at an exponential rate


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[GunnerSchenck]

Closed cell foams, which he referred to, are water resistant.

 

[O5berylgrnrenegade]

I would worry about trapped moisture between the foam and rails as well as possible missed pockets

 

[GunnerSchenck]

My post regarding cavity wax contains a link to 3M's site where you can view the rust preventative. Any foams would be sealed off by this. The cavity wax is applied by inserting a long wand into the openings and pulling the trigger while you pull the wand back out.. it has a 360 degree spray pattern so nothing gets missed, and if you don't want to take a chance, do a quick second coat. The cavity wax is somewhat like Carwell products and Fluid film, apart from a few things.. Its not a yearly maintainence item, and unlike fluid film it's nonflammable.. whereas fluid film is a 4 on the flammability scale, and I just can't bring myself to coat the inside and underneath of my car with anything that's a risk for ignition from static discharge. Let alone ignition from a spark if something metal breaks, or you bottom out a skid plate or so on..
The fact that you only have to do it once is a big factor in my book.. even proper application of preventatives such as POR-15 and rustoleum rust fighters can't end up being temporary bandaids in high salt areas.
Vehicle makers already fill many rails with structural foams for added strength and crash predictability.
These foams are closed cell and will not absorb moisture.

Only open cell foams, such as sound deadeners, would trap moisture.

 

[mk_v]

I just started my project, I had a couple more questions.

I found some bubbling on the rear passenger door where the sheet metal is bent over on the bottom of the door. I've started sanding that and there is some rust in within the bend. Not so bad that the metal is compromised. Does anyone have experience fixing those? Should that crease be bent back over to sand off or would a POR15 application with rubber sealer to cut off the air be adequate? I took off the panel and looked inside, and it looks good I see some light surface rust where the metal is bent together, not bubbling rust but more what looks like surface rust.
Any words of wisdom?


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[JeepinJarhead03]

major issue with foaming is if water does get into it from a leaking 3rd brake light, roof wiring loom, rack mount etc, and it will, it has no where to go or drain to, creating additional drain points have successfully prevented more rot out than all of the internal coatings combined, not that internal coatings(non filler) are bad, the emphasis expedite the moisture leaving

 

[JasonJ]

The problem is that all of our KJ's are between 5 and 15 years old now, most of them towards the upper end of that age spectrum. Most likely already have some level of corrosion occurring, whether you can see it or not.

The time to apply these products is immediately when new, if possible.

 

[mk_v]

I'll snap a picture today, I'm not referring to the brake light.

On the bottom of the door on my driver's side passenger is getting rust where the sheet metal of the outer door is bent over the inner sheet metal on the door. It looks like that outer sheet metal created a trough and held water. My question was, could I POR15 with the proper treatment procedures or would that lip need to be rolled out, sand then prep. If that makes sense.

Where did you make your drain holes on the roof? Mine isn't rusting but I am aware that was a major problem.


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[tommudd]

I'll snap a picture today, I'm not referring to the brake light.

On the bottom of the door on my driver's side passenger is getting rust where the sheet metal of the outer door is bent over the inner sheet metal on the door. It looks like that outer sheet metal created a trough and held water. My question was, could I POR15 with the proper treatment procedures or would that lip need to be rolled out, sand then prep. If that makes sense.

Where did you make your drain holes on the roof? Mine isn't rusting but I am aware that was a major problem.


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You can not " roll " that edge out
clean , sand, prep and paint