IRONMAN LIFT INSTALL/Comments/M&G

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Red07KJ

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I got my OME through OUIPACK ARBCANADA Quality 4x4 accessories (uoipack in montreal)no border fees.
Not sure if they deal ironman or not.
jba arms and stuff I had to get from jba and got shagged ******* border/duty fees (ups).$55 shipping from jba,$55 duty,+ taxes @ 15% on top.

Send them an email (attn David Bond/sales)tell him Pat from Nova Scotia sent you.
I sent him some pics of my lifted red 07 sport and they want to use some on there website :smokin:



Gyro

Thanks Gyro! :gr_grin:
 

Ry' N Jen

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I got my OME through OUIPACK ARBCANADA Quality 4x4 accessories (uoipack in montreal)no border fees.
Not sure if they deal ironman or not.
jba arms and stuff I had to get from jba and got shagged ******* border/duty fees (ups).$55 shipping from jba,$55 duty,+ taxes @ 15% on top.

Send them an email (attn David Bond/sales)tell him Pat from Nova Scotia sent you.
I sent him some pics of my lifted red 07 sport and they want to use some on there website :smokin:



Gyro


Tell me about it! $300+ in fees to UPS and the MAN just to get my Frankenlift to my door :(

it's the price we pay up here...

for instance Rear Upper Isolators ...
Mopar online (U.S.) $10.35 ea
Dealership (CAN) $26.00 ea

I need 3 ... so $88.14 with tax here
Mopar online 31.05 + brokerage + shipping + duty + GST ~ $83.00



I don't know why you guy's paid duty?
When I received my parts from the U.S. all I paid was shipping, brokerage
fees, and the GST as all the parts were made in the U.S.A.
Oh and OUIPACK is absolutely excellent to deal with. Tony is a good shit!
 

TheBlueKJ

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I was thinking of going all around Ironman coils, Rancho RS5000 struts and shocks, 1/4" shim plus 3/8" clevis and add 2 upper iso's per side. What do you guys think of this setup? Any changes you would also recommend?
 

tommudd

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I was thinking of going all around Ironman coils, Rancho RS5000 struts and shocks, 1/4" shim plus 3/8" clevis and add 2 upper iso's per side. What do you guys think of this setup? Any changes you would also recommend?

I would use the Ironman front shocks, I like them and they ride great when using the Ironman springs,
rears use the Rancho RS line if you want for the right application ( 99-04 Dodge Dakota 4WD) Not a big fan of them
Now depends on how high you want to go,
the 1/4 inch top plate and 3/8 inch clevis will put you in the 22.75 inch range and if using the stock UCAs will more than will have some issues getting it aligned correctly, plus may have some spring/UCA contact
 

Luke

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I don't know why you guy's paid duty?
When I received my parts from the U.S. all I paid was shipping, brokerage
fees, and the GST as all the parts were made in the U.S.A.
Oh and OUIPACK is absolutely excellent to deal with. Tony is a good shit!


The parts were assembled in the US they were manufactured in Australia therefore duty applies. That was the least of the charges anyway. It's UPS and it's damn "brokerage" fees that make up the biggest chunk. :disgust:
 

TheBlueKJ

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I would use the Ironman front shocks, I like them and they ride great when using the Ironman springs,
rears use the Rancho RS line if you want for the right application ( 99-04 Dodge Dakota 4WD) Not a big fan of them
Now depends on how high you want to go,
the 1/4 inch top plate and 3/8 inch clevis will put you in the 22.75 inch range and if using the stock UCAs will more than will have some issues getting it aligned correctly, plus may have some spring/UCA contact

Alright I'll go with the Ironman struts. What don't you like about the rear Ranchos? And since I'm going to be running stock UCA's for a little while should I hold off on the shim and clevis?
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Alright I'll go with the Ironman struts. What don't you like about the rear Ranchos? And since I'm going to be running stock UCA's for a little while should I hold off on the shim and clevis?

You can put in the top plate and the clevis - it's just that the alignment won't be able to be set within the factory spec. Caster will need to be ignored until you install JBA's control arms.

One thing to try if you're concerned is to install the top plate and maybe just one conduit nut at first. The top plate is more of a pain to add later since you have to tear the whole front end apart again to install them. Once the springs settle in a bit you can go back and add a nut or two. Or don't install any but just add space between the bottom of the shock and the top of the clevis. You don't NEED the conduit nuts - they're just an easy way to measure out the spacing under the shock mount.

Bob
 

TheBlueKJ

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You can put in the top plate and the clevis - it's just that the alignment won't be able to be set within the factory spec. Caster will need to be ignored until you install JBA's control arms.

One thing to try if you're concerned is to install the top plate and maybe just one conduit nut at first. The top plate is more of a pain to add later since you have to tear the whole front end apart again to install them. Once the springs settle in a bit you can go back and add a nut or two. Or don't install any but just add space between the bottom of the shock and the top of the clevis. You don't NEED the conduit nuts - they're just an easy way to measure out the spacing under the shock mount.

Bob

Alright thanks. I'll probably just go with the top plate and hold off on the clevis untill I get the JBA's. Since I'm eventually going to have both the top plate and the clevis how many isolators should I put in the back? I've heard that some people who put just 2 their front end is higher up then the rear.
 

tommudd

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I've listed it several times as to what combinations to use
but here we go
use one iso in the rear
what price are you paying for the RS line ?
 

TheBlueKJ

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I've listed it several times as to what combinations to use
but here we go
use one iso in the rear
what price are you paying for the RS line ?

Sorry for being redundant about the rear iso. And I would be paying about $299 for front and rear. Around the ballpark of $120-$140 for just the rears maby less
 

tommudd

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I'd really go with a better shock up front (at least). Just my two cents
Rears are easy to swap out when they go, but fronts are harder
I understand wanting to save money but I also look at the long run and how many miles you'll get.
 

TheBlueKJ

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I'd really go with a better shock up front (at least). Just my two cents
Rears are easy to swap out when they go, but fronts are harder
I understand wanting to save money but I also look at the long run and how many miles you'll get.

Yea that's what I'm thinking about. I'm gonna go with your advice on the Ironman front struts and just go with the Ranchos for the rear.
 

Luke

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That make sense.
Our invoice was marked "Made in the U.S.A."...

lol .. I asked Heather to do that for me ... she gave me the impression that she may have done that in the past but that technically she couldn't anymore. :happy175: I did not press the issue :D
 

501

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I'm close to 800 miles on the lift now and after a little 'tweaking' over the weekend on the rear, I'm sitting 22 3/4" FD, 23" PS, 23" RD, 23" RP (Center hub to bottom of flare)

Ride is great and it looks even GREATER!
 

TwoBobsKJ

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I'm close to 800 miles on the lift now and after a little 'tweaking' over the weekend on the rear, I'm sitting 22 3/4" FD, 23" PS, 23" RD, 23" RP (Center hub to bottom of flare)

Ride is great and it looks even GREATER!

Daryl, great to see you here on JeepKJ - thanks for the update. Which shocks did you go with in the rear?

Bob
 
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