Just finished ome spring/ bilsteinstrut and shock install

[wdwillson]

I just finished a 927/948 coil install.. everything went as well as could be expected for my first real wrench on my 06. First side was a bear second side took 30 minutes if you don't include the clevis to lca bushing swap. I ended up using a ball joint press and pneumatic chisel.
my question is ... I am getting a lot of noise from my passenger side. I still need to get an alignment and it goes in today for that. I used bilstein 4600 series#139168 for my struts. are theses the correct ones. from what I've read that are, but they are also the correct size for stock height?!
my second question is how big can my rubber go? is I need to stick in a spacer that is fine. I've seen some of the 245/75/16's and it looks like we could fit more meat in that space. my inner fenders are ynmolested at this point and I don't mind using a heat gun but I'd like them to remain able to keep mud and snow off my " frame".

 

[tommudd]

I just finished a 927/948 coil install.. everything went as well as could be expected for my first real wrench on my 06. First side was a bear second side took 30 minutes if you don't include the clevis to lca bushing swap. I ended up using a ball joint press and pneumatic chisel.
my question is ... I am getting a lot of noise from my passenger side. I still need to get an alignment and it goes in today for that. I used bilstein 4600 series#139168 for my struts. are theses the correct ones. from what I've read that are, but they are also the correct size for stock height?!
my second question is how big can my rubber go? is I need to stick in a spacer that is fine. I've seen some of the 245/75/16's and it looks like we could fit more meat in that space. my inner fenders are ynmolested at this point and I don't mind using a heat gun but I'd like them to remain able to keep mud and snow off my " frame".

Many questions
Did you add anything else like top plate or a clevis when installing the lift?
Did you tighten everything AFTER full weight was on the ground?
Measure from middle of the wheel/hub to bottom of the flare and reprt back, you should be at about 21.5 ( after alignment and a few miles)
Have you pounded over the pinch weld yet?
You can more than likely run 245-75-16s

 

[wdwillson]

I am at 21.5 inch x4. I didn't add anything else. (clevis bushings, springs,and strut/shock..) and a little blood and cussinging for atmosphere.
no on the pinch weld. it must be under my fancy plastic?

aahhhh may be the strut mount to chassis nuts.. no I didn't tighten any up after I dropped it back down. I only undid the strut mount, clevis to strut, clevis to bushing and UCA ball joint.
If the noise is still there when I get it back today, I'll check those nuts.
thank for reply.

 

[mx3_ryder]

Getting ready to install my lift and see that everyone says to tighten bolts with weight on vehicle. This must obviously be done with tire on which makes everything harder to access. Any bolts in particular or all of them. Just did front and rear shocks on my wife's Envoy yesterday and tightened everything with no weight on and had no problems after with noises etc.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Getting ready to install my lift and see that everyone says to tighten bolts with weight on vehicle. This must obviously be done with tire on which makes everything harder to access. Any bolts in particular or all of them. Just did front and rear shocks on my wife's Envoy yesterday and tightened everything with no weight on and had no problems after with noises etc.

The primary bolts to tighten with the weight on the wheels are the upper control arm (if replacing with JBA) and the sway bar links. Fully tighten the upper shock mount, upper and lower clevis bolts before putting the weight on the wheels.

Bob

 

[wdwillson]

My noise has stopped,, after the alignment the noise was mostly gone. I removed the air intake box and retightened the strut mount nuts.. noise is gone! my alignment says that they couldn't quite get the caster into spec, I had the same problem with the last alignment. car fax said there was no accident, is there a " usual suspect " in this matter or just my crappy luck? either way, they say it's not a tire wearing issue. Will post before / after pics soon. looks much better! rides much better! but then the suspension was original 135000 miles after its born on date.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

My noise has stopped,, after the alignment the noise was mostly gone. I removed the air intake box and retightened the strut mount nuts.. noise is gone! my alignment says that they couldn't quite get the caster into spec, I had the same problem with the last alignment. car fax said there was no accident, is there a " usual suspect " in this matter or just my crappy luck? either way, they say it's not a tire wearing issue. Will post before / after pics soon. looks much better! rides much better! but then the suspension was original 135000 miles after its born on date.

When these KJ's are lifted the caster will not be within factory spec - but like the tech said to you it is not a tire wear issue. Thankfully I have a good alignment tech who doesn't need my instruction but the first alignment I got after the lift I told a different tech to 'sacrifice caster for camber' thanks to guidance from the folks here on the forum. Great advice I've used for 4 years now.

As yours settles in you'll notice the ride getting smoother and noises will begin to dissipate :waytogo:

Bob

 

[wdwillson]

before/after

My noise has stopped,, after the alignment the noise was mostly gone. I removed the air intake box and retightened the strut mount nuts.. noise is gone! my alignment says that they couldn't quite get the caster into spec, I had the same problem with the last alignment. car fax said there was no accident, is there a " usual suspect " in this matter or just my crappy luck? either way, they say it's not a tire wearing issue. Will post before / after pics soon. looks much better! rides much better! but then the suspension was original 135000 miles after its born on date.

here is before

here is my before

 

[wdwillson]

here's after

 

[tommudd]

Looks good

 

[M38 Bob]

"Tighten with weight on" only applies/relates to parts with a steel bushing bedded in rubber. These should be tightened at their normal loaded position so that torque stresses from up and down movement are only applied during up and down movement. If you tighten with travel fully extended, then when weight is applied the rubber bushing is torqued, twisted to or past it's designed travel limit all the time. Additional travel, I.E. over speed bumps,railroad tracks, potholes, etc can cause the rubber to tear/degrade much earlier than normal.

Bob

 

[twowings]

That turned out nice...enjoy!