WTF, what kind of shop doesn't take credit cards?
Probably one with a very...very....very rich clientele. They lost my business over it. Or maybe they just do oil changes, battery swaps and windshield wiper blade changes... who knows.
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WTF, what kind of shop doesn't take credit cards?
Garage just called. It's the ignition switch. So... new steering column for me. Surprised Chrysler didn't make it so you had to replace the entire front end. Cause, you know, that'd be the easiest.
It's built that way for a reason,mainly theft deterrent.Garage just called. It's the ignition switch. So... new steering column for me. Surprised Chrysler didn't make it so you had to replace the entire front end. Cause, you know, that'd be the easiest.
At least they will get a good laugh,almost all newer vehicles are built the same way and not going to change.loves_off_roading
jnaut the same thing happened to me a couple of weeks ago. I def agree with you. I still haven't written that angry rant letter to Chrysler yet but it's gona happen.
jnaut the same thing happened to me a couple of weeks ago. I def agree with you. I still haven't written that angry rant letter to Chrysler yet but it's gona happen.
It's built that way for a reason,mainly theft deterrent.
At least they will get a good laugh,almost all newer vehicles are built the same way and not going to change.
Mine was the switch on left side of column,$16 at autozone,$53 at dealer+figuring it out.
Yes,under muti-stalk deal on left side of column,FSM has details on replacing,if I had it with me would share.Do tell. Is there some part of the start-switch that can be replaced, and some part of it that can't?
jnaut,did you find anything out?
jnaut, I am glad that the repair is complete and back on the road again.
I am shocked that they would have to replace the whole steering column to fix the ignition key switch, theft deterrent or not, how much was that new dealer steering column?
I had the same trbl with my liberty. No start lights and radio and acc work fine battery and starter fine but no crank.the ignition actuator pin is broke in the steering colum.to verify no power going to your stater relay ck fuse 28 with a volt meter if fuse is good you should have 12 v at the fuse when someone put the key to start you should get 12 v.if no remove the steering colum cover 2 torx screws on bottom.noe ck the red wire at the ignition switch hot all the time 12 v..now check the light blue / red wire at the ignition switch when you put the key to start position you should get 12 v at the lght blue /red wire if No your ignition actuator is the issue.now remove th e multi function switch on top remove the 2 torx screws and just move it to the side .noe remove the 1 torx screw to free the ignition switch. Now remove the key cylinder put key in thr RUN position and press the tab on the bottom on the cylinder and pull the lock out. Now remove 2 torx screws on thr plate on bottom .just becareful you dont lose the spring that is inside of the plate.now you can pull the ignition actuator and ignition switch out .remove the harness from the ignition switch .now just pull apart the actuator from the switch. You are going to need T-10 And T -20 security torx bits .. reverse process to install if your not sure just take some pics as you go..good luckGot stranded in a parking lot this afternoon where the KJ wouldn't start. Had full electrics in the vehicle, headlights, instruments, dash throwing no codes at all. Just showing 'done'. Battery reading 12.41 volts. Haven't load tested it though, but it seems good-- tow truck driver felt it was good too.
Jump start didn't work, no crank, no click no nothing. Fuel pump seems to come on when putting key in 'on' position. Turn key to crank, nothing.
Fuse looked ok. Haven't tested starter relay yet (not sure how, am looking at manual now). Any advice?